Whirlpool WTW4850XQ1 Lid Lock Fault

[wiredhot]

I have a Whirlpool WTW4850XQ1 that has been acting a little sketchy as of lately. First of all, it began not wanting to show done when I would open the lid, so at various times I would have to unplug and allow it to reset to start a new load. Then it began not wanting to finish the load, i.e. it would stop during the spin cycle and I would have to do a drain and spin to finish it. Now to top it all off, it goes into a "Lid Lock Fault" when the spin cycle comes on.

I have fully replaced the locking mechanism and I have physically checked all connection and verified they are correctly seated.

I have accessed the Technical manual and have performed the following manual tests:

•         Lid Lock – Passed

•         Cold Valve – Passed

•         Hot Valve – Passed

•         Drain – Passed

•         Low Spin – “Lid Lock Fault” comes on during the test and cancels all tests. I have to unplug it to reset the controls and start again.

•         High Spin –  Passed

•         Gentle Agitation – Passed

•         Heavy Agitation – Passed

It failing on the Low Spin test also causes it to fail when sensing the load, and thus not being able to wash. I have verified the resistance in the motor windings and all are within specs. The only thing that really concerns me is that the 45µF start capacitor reads 31µF but in reading the resistance across the capacitor causes the resistance to rise steadily. I am not very experienced with capacitors, so …. Does this mean the capacitor is my problem? The next step in the manual says to replace the main control board. I am willing to do this, but I want to verify that I have exhausted all other possibilities before I do. Any input is greatly appreciated. I can add videos of the tests and what it is doing if needed.

[johntech]

You would want to test the capacitor with a meter that test capacitance not ohms. Normally the capacitors bulge or leak when failed and the motor will not operate at all. I since it is giving a lid lock error only in spin then your options are the lid lock itself, the wireing or the main control. I would really inspect the wireing and replace main control or possibly the harness since you already replaced the lock. Just make sure you used an oem part when you replaced the lock.

[wiredhot]

Update: It has been repaired!

 

After much cussing, fussing, head scratching, and screaming. I replaced the capacitor with an aftermarket one, and ended up with the same results. I then went through the main control tests and discovered that the tachometer was not picking up the drum. I took the shift assembly off and inspected it, the plastic cover for the optical sensor that acts as a tach on it was extremely dirty. I cleaned it and allowed it to dry,,  reassembled it,  then ran the failed test again only to pass this time. I then ran a full automatic test and passed all sections. Lastly I have reassembled everything and calibrated it. Now the Laundry Monster may be vanquished.