Whirlpool WFW75WEFW0 - noise during spin

[Davidaha]

1.5 year old Whirlpool WFW75DEFW0 washer started making loud banging noise during the fastest parts of the spin cycle.   Washer does not walk or shake during the noise.    It washes fine, just is incredibly loud for about 8 minutes.  Tried holding outer drum and wiggling the inner drum in multiple locations.   No bearing wobble.   When the empty inner drum is spun by hand there is a sound like a delayed counter rotation or water slosh.   Did replace the shocks and emptied the drain cleanout with no improvement.   Did notice that there is a separation of the stainless steel inner tub at the seam on the side closer to the door that is not present on the inner side.  The opening is a little jagged like a weld failed.   See pic

https://photos.app.goo.gl/G4K5mjv1UeW97HKZ7

Need advice on what may be causing the noise.   I see that whirlpool has the inner/outer drum as a single part that costs as much as a new washer...so wondering if a goner...

 

[Vance R]

Can't tell from your picture. The inner basket maybe flexing at that point with a load during spin. Check where to basket and the outer tub come close in the front to see if it has been rubbing. 

[MaxRepair]

Bangs, thumps, grinding? If your washer is making a loud noise you can be sure it has something to do with a bearing. But which one? There are two common bearings inside washing machines: the rear drum bearing or a tub bearing.

Rear Drum Bearing: The rear drum has a one or several inner bearings that help the washer spin smoothly. This is a major repair as it can be exceptionally difficult to remove and press into place a new bearing into some drums. Many times the entire system needs to be replaced with a new part.
Tub Bearing: The tub bearing keeps the inner tub spinning smoothly. This is a major repair as an involved disassembly most be performed to access the tub bearing.

I got this from https://www.electrafixbc.ca/appliances/washer.html

Check it out for more info on your washer issue. 

[delawaredrew]

This machine has a pair of bearings in the rear that support the basket. The basket is held by the "spider" which has a shaft that goes through those bearings. You could have a failure in bearings or spider but eliminate some other things before getting to a major issue. It's hard to see in that pic what you reference as a potential split or broken weld. Perhaps a video would demonstrate the noise, which is a major diagnostic clue at times. You've probably had the back off by now and would have noticed if a shipping bolt guide was still stuck in there or something was interfering with the movement. If you are comfortable around machinery and cautious about fingers and clothing you can run it with back off and maybe get a better idea where/what is making the noise.

In order of increasing severity:

1)Make sure what you hear isn't actually the drain hose hitting the back of the machine. It sounds stupidly simple but I had to charge people dozens of times to put a zip tie on. The same applies to the drain hose inside the machine, if not attached to frame or floor it can bang loudly.

2)Run it empty in spin cycle if you can, otherwise do rinse and spin. Noise still? If not try a load of very similar items like all t-shirts in rinse and spin and see what happens. Sometimes it is as simple as a mixed load overwhelming the suspension/shocks.
3)If you have gotten the tech manual out and can get it to only spin (empty) is there noise still? Manual is taped to inside wall IIRC and will tell you how to isolate functions.
4)Drain at a good rate? A slow pump may reduce water levels enough to allow spin but not enough to lighten load for a controlled spin. Generally this would get better as it spins and pump has more time to remove water (weight).
5) Take top off and see if concrete block is loose or broken. Top one is right there, and there's another on bottom; you can see that from back or with an inspection mirror if lucky. Grey dust or even chunks of concrete will be obvious.
5)Look at door seal or plastic outer tub where front lip of basket could hit, any significant rub marks? If so your basket is spinning out of true, that seam may actually be split as you mentioned and expanding at speed. That's bad. This would also generally mean a major repair, similar to tub bearings. If that's the case, consider any warranty options left; and/or some companies will offer a limited warranty without seeing the machine, that style of service costs more for the initial call but often less than the repair.

I've gotten out of the repair field after injury so I don't see the common failures on specific models anymore but any of those would not surprise me. Even on a newer unit. Oh and the slosh you hear is either residual water (always some in it) or the liquid filled balance ring, nothing out of the ordinary.

Good Luck
Drew

Edited January 14, 2020 by delawaredrew

[Budget Appliance Repair]

You have the model number listed as WFW75WEFW0 in the title then in the body of your first post you list it as WFW75DEFW0.  Neither of those are good model numbers.

The only model number close to what you have listed is: WFW75HEFW0

You are correct about the inner basket not being able to be replaced in this washer, you would have to purchase the complete assembled wash assembly for close to or as much as a new washer, (the other tub halves are plastic welded together unlike most all others that you can separate the tub outer shell and replace the stainless basket or rear tub shell with bearings and seal).

Unfortunately, the only warranty is full 1 year parts and labor - no extended/limited warranty on the stainless basket like some of the older ones used to have.

If you determine that this is a stainless spin basket failure, I would advise you to contact Whirlpool directly at the high level you can get to and complain very loud and long!!!!!

The water you hear is the fluid in the vibration reduction ring built into the front of the spin basket.

Sears price for the main complete wash assembly is $525.20

Part number: W10901030