Marvel kegerator too cold- freezing

[joedadog]

I have a Marvel kegerator model 60HK7824 that will not stop running and is freezing the beer (it is in my house). I shut it down for a few days, vacuumed out the back and plugged it back in. Same outcome, it keeps running after several hours. When I turn the temp control knob down, it will only stop running with the knob gets to off position. My guess is the thermostat is bad, but I need some expert advice to troubleshoot. I am handy so I should be able to handle the repair. Thanks in advance for your help.

[Scottekarate]

I can't find this model number anywhere. I have zero experience with kegerators, other than operating one, but you said you have a knob to adjust temperature. More than likely, that knob plugs directly onto the thermostat. The part may have a part number stamped on it and you may find one that way. It sure sounds like a stuck closed thermostat.

[joedadog]

Thanks for the reply. I contacted the Marvel and they gave me the part numbers for all the replacement parts.  Temp Control Kit 42246442 (Includes SSAC Control 42244530, Thermistor 42244531, Potentiometer 42244638);  Do you think it would be just the thermistor or do I need to buy the entire kit. It is very expensive.  

[ECtoFix]

If the temp control control is actually the problem (which would need troubleshot to verify), you SHOULD get the complete kit.  From what I found about the new temp control, it's different from the old one and some retrofitting might be needed to install it.  Compatibility of newer INDIVIDUAL parts (board, thermistor or potentiometer) with your older controller comes into question as well.

From MY thinking, any one of the three parts could be at fault and therefore would need to be considered/tested individually:

• Thermistors DO fail, so an ohmmeter and knowledge of the thermistor's operational parameters would be needed to test it.
• Potentiometers DO fail.  They ARE mechanical and therefore susceptible to use/abuse.  So, an ohmmeter and knowledge of the potentiometer's specs would be needed to test it.
• Boards FAIL.  Whatever switching device used (relay, triac, SSR) can fail CLOSED.  Proper scrutiny of those OTHER two components may be used to determine that the BOARD is at fault (black box theory used for process of elimination).
• Connections into and out the of the control board should be scrutinized before anything else.

 

[ECtoFix]

Quote

From MY thinking, any one of the three parts could be at fault and therefore would need to be considered/tested individually:

I'd stated that as a NORMAL troubleshooting practice.  But AGAIN, whether the NEWER individual parts are compatible with your existing setup is something I just don't know.  You'd need to consult with Marvel to answer that question.

[joedadog]

ok thank you very much. I will start looking into it.