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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
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      How:
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Posted

I am trying to troubleshoot my York Furnace:

MODEL: TGLS100C20MP11A

ISSUE: The furnace intermittently does not start.  After resetting the power by unplugging and plugging back in, the furnace will run a cycle, maybe two or more and then will fail to start some time after.  When running, it heats fine and the air flow is good but the unit rattles a tiny bit so I'm wondering if there is a loose blower wheel?  The blower wheel turns by hand okay and doesn't feel loose, but feels heavy and I'm not sure if it should spin real easily like a car's radiator fan.  The last attempt to run, I notice the unit was humming like the blower was trying to start spinning but could not.  I unplugged it.  It restarted after that just fine, but I'm no longer comfortable letting it run without a proper repair.

ERROR CODE: 11 red flashes.  The York site says this is usually caused by a failed blower motor or blower wheel.  That information is great, but is it definitive?!

SOLUTIONS:  I would like to know if an out of balance blower wheel could be the cause of vibration and noise and if that is enough to cause the unit to fail to operate?  Is the blower motor shot?  Totally comfortable to replace, but am I going down the right path but doing this?  Could it be the run capacitor, etc...  what should I test first?

So, based on these things I DO know, which component and things should I troubleshoot first to isolate the issue?  I know my way around a multi meter and can practice electrical safety and I really want to solve this one myself.  Look forward to any help I can get!

-Ben

 

 

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Posted

Were not really a furnace site, but vibration alone wont stop it from working , but will eventually cause issues. 

 It soulds like abad capacitor. Worth testing first as they are cheap.  And then ohm out the windings on the blower.

Posted

Yes, a capacitor will cause it not to start.  The motor will just sit there and hum.  It will draw enough amps to melt the fan relay solder connection on the control board.  The blower wheel should spin very easily .  An out of balance motor will make some noise but, a lot of times the blower wheel lug fails and get's loose so ,you hold the lug and try to move the blower wheel back and forth.  IF there is any movement, change the blower wheel it is just a matter of time before it comes apart.  

When you power cycle the furnace you are reseting the control board.  Usually after several ignition  failures in the heat mode the control board goes  into a hard lockout and the only way to reset it is by a power cycle.

For ignition failure First I would take a dollar bill and clean the flame sensor or, replace it. Usually about 15 dollar's. I would then check the crossover ports to make sure the flame is igniting all the burners. Check the gas pressure.  If the gas pressure is too high the unit will over fire causing it to overheat.  Check  the  filters this and possibly dirty evaporator coil can cause the air to slow down thru the coil overheating the furnace. 

Sometimes the rattling can a loose tubular heat exchanger. 

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