1988 Frigidaire dryer DEF-W-0 dead after changing belt

[dochawk]

We have a 1988 Frigidaire dryer I picked up as a temporary unit while dealing with the new-fangled Samsung.

It tore its belt a couple of days ago, and I was amazed to find a replacement for $5 instead of the $50 on the samsung . . .

I was also tickled with how easy it was to pop it open, and the access panel to let me loop it around the tensioner.

Put it all back together, and . . . nothing at all.

We could hear the motor running before opening it up.

I've confirmed:

• all three electric inputs come in to the block
• door sensor is connected to NO, such that it closes and connects the wire back to ground when door closed
• start button is NO and connects brown line to timer to ground when pushed
• what I presume to be the thermal fuse, with to wires to it on the exhaust, is essentially zero ohms

Clearly, I must have done *something*, but this is an awfully simple contraption, and what else could I have done???

I suppose I'll do more tests on the timer tomorrow.

I did knock phe bully on the tensioner off when I tried to reach in from the front, before I found that wonderful access panel. It also seems cracked, so I'll swap it out with another tomorrow.  (I made the strangest impulse purchase of my life today: in Lowes for the belt, and the three guys hanging around weren't yakking do to lack of customers, but guarding the pallet of toilet paper . . . so I took a pack, to the relief of my wife and kids  . . .)

So what am I missing here?  

 

[Dunamis]

Belt kill switch found under idler pulley.

[dochawk]

Thanks, that certainly makes sense, but even after vacuuming out, I'm not recognizing a switch. I can easily believe that I would have bumped such a thing, especially when I tried reaching back blind from the front.

Here's what I have (with the bully off and the rocker arm bac, spring down):

 

where should I be looking?

 

thanks again

 

hawk

[dochawk]

hmm, I can't edit.  The image or two I find seem to show what I presume to be a mercury switch on the back of the pulley arm; I have nothing of the sort.

 

Here's my arm:

 

Also, the motor continued to run after the belt broke, but I noticed the funny sound in the next room pretty much immediately.

 

 

 

[MrApplianceMatt]

I'm probably asking a silly question, but you did make sure the breaker wasn't tripped and that there's power to the plug, right? I have fallen victim to seemingly small oversights in the past because I had it in my head that the issue must be more complex than it actually was.

Edited March 21, 2020 by MrApplianceMatt

[16345Ed]

If you would provide us with an actual model number we could provide better educated help. 

Edited March 21, 2020 by 16345Ed

[MrApplianceMatt]

10 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

If you would provide us with an actual model number we could provide better educated help. 

I found it here https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/2xmbf05oiy-001428/frigidaire-defw0-dryer-parts?page=2

[Vance R]

From your picture and my memory, these dryers don't have a belt switch.  Presume you put the belt on by removing the front panel. So the odds on guess would be door switch not re-connected. Model number would let us make better suggestions.

Just wanted to add if your going to keep this dryer for awhile you should lubricate the drum rear bearing.

Edited March 22, 2020 by Vance R
Added lube advise.

[dochawk]

After disconnecting and reconnecting lugs, it ran again.

 

For a while.

And just plain stopped.

 

There is ground to the starter switch when the door is closed, and to the switch when the button is pushed.

 

There is 123v or so on both orange and red at the switch.

 

This is an ultra-simple dryer, with only heat and no heat, nothing fancy like "low"

 

the schematic shows a thermostat and a "high load" thermostat or some such.  I've found the one on the exhaust, and it hasn't triggered.

 

I would say that the timer switch has to be bad, but that's more than a tiny coincidence, and more than I tend to believe . . 

 

[dochawk]

here is the label with the model number (and, yes, I've been getting "that's not a model number" from local parts vendors, too:

 

 

 

And I've checked breakers, etc., and for continuity in the plug & cord.

 

The door sensor works fine, as does the push button; I've tested both several times with an ohmmeter, and for voltage to orange.

It's like some kind of intermittent connection that suddenly appeared at the time the belt went (which I presume was triggered by wear from  the cracked pulley . . .)

This is not a long term dryer, but it's been far longer than meant to be.  I picked it up cheap when it turned out that "in stock" on a new drum for my hideously expensive samsung meant "we'll order one from Korea that will get here in a few months" (ultimately, a friend welded it).   That one is working, but still rubbing ( it may be that its spring on the tensioner got too weak, and the one we tried to replace it with is to strong.  But now I've found the factory replacement to order . . . ) .  But that's another tale.  Anyway, it isn't supposed to be in my life much longer, but it's far past when it should have been gone . . .

 

(I also have that samsung spring on order . . .)

 

For the moment, though, my wife is far from happy, and threatening to buy a *third* dryer [put a little yellow guy pulling his hair out here!]

 

thanks, any more bright ideas would help.  (can I rebuild the timer?)

 

Oh, and it seems the timer is the only part that is no longer available, although the motor costs as much as a new low end dryer . . .

 

 

 

 

 

[Vance R]

1 hour ago, dochawk said:

the schematic shows a thermostat and a "high load" thermostat or some such

Haven't been able to find wiring diagram for any of the DEFW* series dryers. If you have a descent picture would upload.

[dochawk]

I just took this.

 

No doubt this will disassemble further and I can get a better one; will post when I do.

hmm, manipulating it turned it back upside down . . .

 

[dochawk]

I still can't edit, but it's on the back plate of the upper housing.

If you have one that needs help, it *should* have its own . . .

 

[Vance R]

No worries this picture will work. Cropped and flipped. You'll need to make voltage measurements to determine where the issue is located. Tag neutral with one lead, recommend  at the terminal block if possible.  Put into a any cycle. You should have 120 vac at timer terminal C (white wire) with the push to start switch pushed (PTS). Next is 120 vac at motor terminal 1 (white wire) with PTS pushed.  Next is 120 vac at motor terminal 4 (tan) with PTS not pushed, 0 vac with PTS pushed. If motor terminal stays at 120 vac move on to PTS  common terminal (tan wire) should be 120 vac PTS not pushed, 0 vac PTS pushed.  If it stays at 120 vac move to NO terminal (gray wire) of PTS, push the PTS you should have 0 vac. If it  is 120 vac you have an open circuit to neutral. Move on to the door switch NO terminal (gray wire) and so for it needed. 

[Econo Appliance]

6 hours ago, dochawk said:

here is the label with the model number (and, yes, I've been getting "that's not a model number" from local parts vendors, too.

Haha.  I found it but looks like an ancient microfische.

Okkams razor combined with the law of diminishing returns

 

[dochawk]

I still can't edit, but it's on the back plate of the upper housing.

If you have one that needs help, it *should* have its own . . . (which do to this not posting yesterday, you seem to have found on your own).

it was more useful or confirming what I had already figured out.

 

The pulley I ordered on Friday for this one still hasn't had it's amazon order processed, and is apparently close to a week away,  while the spring for the fancy dryer  yesterday is to be delivered today--also by amazon.