WGD70HEBW1 Gas Dryer No/Low Heat

[NormStorm]

Next Step Please - I replaced "coils" (solenoids) because #1 cause intermitent no/low heat. I can see igniter light the gas but not every time. If gas lights it goes out after awhile. Probably 7-8 different electrical parts. Which would you replace next? Ignitor seems like it works - if it glows its probably working right? OR is it not glowing enough? Overheating doesn't seem likely since barely any heat (if any) come out so !?!?! What next - Thanks! 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Is this by any chance a used dryer that is new to you?

If you have it on Natural gas and the dryer has been converted to LP gas you will get low heat/small flame.

Have you tried a cycle with the vent duct disconnected - if you have bad/low airflow the burner could be turning off on the hi-limit safety t-stat that is on the burner cone, (there is a plastic plug in the front panel that you remove to watch the flame to make sure it is burning fully and being pulled thru the burner cone and not just a mushy wavy flame hitting the hi-limit t-stat).

 

[NormStorm]

Duct was cleaned by pulling a rag multiple times using an electrical "fish tape" then shining a brite flashlight to look. NOT duct! Not an LP to NG. Std. Natural Gas Dryer like any other.

Have never seen a dryer with a flame viewing port. Great idea so of coarse Whirpool Wouldn't want that.  I guess I am going to just start replacing 2-3 electrical items at a time because checking each one with a multi meter would take about a thousnd hours of putting all back together just to find still doesn't work! 

Dryer was barely 6 years old. I had already replaced a Relay on main board to avoid paying $240 for a new board. I have a brand new Whirpool Gas Drer running. It is so much CHEAPER CRAPPYEIR $850 I am guessing it will last only 4 years. (The DOOR is just so obviously ALL plastic now and a total POS!) This is totally by design I am 100% convinced of that. WP basically has a massive Monopoly on the Market except for the insanely expensive brands like Bosch etc so WP can do whatever they want. 

I guess the "new norm" should be to install 2 appliances at every place you want one because they will be constantly crapping out at short intervals! 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Really??? No flame view port?   LOOK AGAIN - It's a plastic square plug on the front panel right in front of where the burner is.  Use a putty knife to pop it out.

See this picture - Ref# 17

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Actually, Thinking about this, that's the wrong side - the burner is on the other side, maybe the picture is just showing it on the wrong side, but if you see a square plastic piece on the front down at the bottom, try to pop if off and see if you can see the flame.

It really sucks on these newer washers and dryers where the manufactures have eliminated the lower access panels on the front so you can't see what is going on when it is all assembled and running.

Edited March 24, 2020 by Budget Appliance Repair

[WOOKIE]

Before I replaced anything else, I would check the gas pressure to the appliance.  A lot of things could come into play. is this he only gas appliance,  Is this in a single house residence, multi - residence, gas regulator from PGE gone bad, moisture in the gas, undersized gas line to the dryer.  Also the coils could be good but, the additive that is added to natural gas to make it smell causes a sticky residue inside the gas valve and can cause intermittent problems wit the valve sticking. 

[NormStorm]

Budget & Wookie - Thanks for trying to help. so it turns out there IS a view port conveniently located on the lower front of right side panel up against the wall. Now that I have thrown the unit out on front porch i saw it. I ordered a thermal fuse, thermister & Flame Sensor. Maybe one of those will fix it? 

 

Single Family - Meter Was New in 2007. Gas Furnace, Water Heater & Gas Dryer. Vent is 2 elbows & 14' strait hard pipe and CLEAN. If it turns out to be wet / sticky Natural Gas I will go back to electric. 

 

[NormStorm]

"Limited Success" by replacing Coils, Thermal Switch, Flame Sensor, & Thermal Fuse. Now I am wondering if an Igniter burns out like a lightbulb filiment -OR- could an igniter beging to fail slowely so it doesn't ignite the gas every time? Seems like it would either work or not with nothing "in between" am I wrong?