GE Burner 3 In 1 Surface Element

[A1UniversalAR]

Model: JP310N2
Part: WB30X346
Long Story Short The Larger Burner Went Out In Customer House And Needs Replacing Since The Part Is NLA Is There Still A Way To Hook Up It With A Different Element With Like 2 Or 3 Prongs Oppose From The 4 Wire Element It Originally Came With Im Currently A New Tech And Just Trynna Explore My Options Before I Spend Extra On NLA Part .

https://www.a-1appliance.com/diagramenlarge/4/00002100/1283946/177540
Part #58

[Vance R]

From the picture of the part from your post looks like wires are attached with screws.  One side of element is joined together and is one of the "L" lines ( not sure if it is L1 or L2) The other 3 terminals are the other "L" run thur the infinite switch. Subbing in a double or single should be easy just match the watts and cap off unused wire/wires. There are a couple of the wb30x46 on ebay and are spendy. Present the options to your customer and let them make the decision on what they want done.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

You don't need to cap off any wires, use them all so that no mater were the 4/6/8 switch is set the element will still work.

Use this standard 3 wire 8" element

Part number: WB30X346

Attach the obvious common to the common terminal then figure out which wire goes to each of the original element sections 4/6/8 - attach the wires for the 4 and 6 inch settings to the small inner section of the new element and the wire for the 8 inch to the terminal for the outer ring of the new element.

Now when the 4/6/8 switch is set to 4 or 6 the small inner 6" section of the element will come on and when set to 8" the complete element will heat up.

Works fine this way and customers are usually fine with it since most just use this element on the 8" setting all the time anyway, (I've done one this way and it works perfectly fine).

[A1UniversalAR]

14 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

You don't need to cap off any wires, use them all so that no mater were the 4/6/8 switch is set the element will still work.

Use this standard 3 wire 8" element

Part number: WB30X346

Attach the obvious common to the common terminal then figure out which wire goes to each of the original element sections 4/6/8 - attach the wires for the 4 and 6 inch settings to the small inner section of the new element and the wire for the 8 inch to the terminal for the outer ring of the new element.

Now when the 4/6/8 switch is set to 4 or 6 the small inner 6" section of the element will come on and when set to 8" the complete element will heat up.

Works fine this way and customers are usually fine with it since most just use this element on the 8" setting all the time anyway, (I've done one this way and it works perfectly fine).

But I Have 4 Burners And 4 Wires That Screws Onto The Element .

[A1UniversalAR]

19 hours ago, Vance R said:

From the picture of the part from your post looks like wires are attached with screws.  One side of element is joined together and is one of the "L" lines ( not sure if it is L1 or L2) The other 3 terminals are the other "L" run thur the infinite switch. Subbing in a double or single should be easy just match the watts and cap off unused wire/wires. There are a couple of the wb30x46 on ebay and are spendy. Present the options to your customer and let them make the decision on what they want done.

How Would I Do Dat New Tech .

[Vance R]

WOW, basic electricity. 240 vac takes two wire L1 and L2 . Our load in this case is 3 elements in parallel. One end of all the element are tied to one wire then to one of the L1 ( we'll used the leg for this case). The other end of each element goes to it's own section of the infinite switch then to L2 to complete the circuit.  If you go the 2 element route one side of the element will be tied together same as the triple used "L1" wire there. Now you will have some choices.  Budget Appliance Repair's suggestion hook the inner and middle element wires to inner of dual element. Then hook the large element wire of the triple to the large terminal of the double. Done. Next is to leave the inner wire for the triple element off and capped. Hook up the other 2 wires as previous instructions. Negativity is that the inner part of infinite switch won't work.  Please study the wiring diagram until this makes sense to you.

[A1UniversalAR]

1 hour ago, Vance R said:

WOW, basic electricity. 240 vac takes two wire L1 and L2 . Our load in this case is 3 elements in parallel. One end of all the element are tied to one wire then to one of the L1 ( we'll used the leg for this case). The other end of each element goes to it's own section of the infinite switch then to L2 to complete the circuit.  If you go the 2 element route one side of the element will be tied together same as the triple used "L1" wire there. Now you will have some choices.  Budget Appliance Repair's suggestion hook the inner and middle element wires to inner of dual element. Then hook the large element wire of the triple to the large terminal of the double. Done. Next is to leave the inner wire for the triple element off and capped. Hook up the other 2 wires as previous instructions. Negativity is that the inner part of infinite switch won't work.  Please study the wiring diagram until this makes sense to you.

Gotcha Basically Already Knew Dat I Thought You Were Sayin Something Else But It Didnt Have The Schematics Or A Tech Sheet With It Which Would Make It A Whole Lot Easier Thanks For The Info .

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@A1UniversalAR

9 hours ago, A1UniversalAR said:

But I Have 4 Burners And 4 Wires That Screws Onto The Element .

Sorry A1, I screwed up on my copy and paste of the correct part#

This is the 8" 3 wire element that I meant to link to:
Part number: WB30X341

Just connect both the 4" and 6" wire to the center terminal, 8" wire to outer single terminal and L1/Common to the left side common terminal.

@Vance R The infinite control switch on these are the exact same as a normal infinite switch, L2 goes to the 4/6/8 switch which controls which of the element sections power on to make it a 4"/ 6"/ 8" element.

[A1UniversalAR]

2 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

@A1UniversalAR

Sorry A1, I screwed up on my copy and paste of the correct part#

This is the 8" 3 wire element that I meant to link to:
Part number: WB30X341

Just connect both the 4" and 6" wire to the center terminal, 8" wire to outer single terminal and L1/Common to the left side common terminal.

@Vance R The infinite control switch on these are the exact same as a normal infinite switch, L2 goes to the 4/6/8 switch which controls which of the element sections power on to make it a 4"/ 6"/ 8" element.

Kool Thanks Boss .

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@A1UniversalAR One other thing to be aware of, if you look at the picture of the element above you will notice that the two element sections are staggered so you won't actually only have the small section in the middle on when you are set at 4" or 6", (the coils will alternate starting at the outside off then next on, then next off, etc.)

Older versions of this same element, the center smaller section would completely be heating and actually look like a 6" element with outer 3 turns or so off unless you have the 8" setting on.

If you search Ebay for the WB30X341 element and look closely at the pictures you maybe able to find one that is the older style that would work more like the original element you are replacing.

There would be no problem using the newer version - just make sure your customer is aware of the situation and like I said above, most people never use the 4/6/8 option and always leave that element on the 8" setting anyway.