Maytag Fridge

[FreddyK]

Model MBB1952HEW

Freezer on Bottom unit.

so some time back our ice maker stopped working, making some weird growl noise every x minutes, so I unplugged it until I could get back to it.

I Plugged it back in tonight, and of course, no ice

so the ice maker just sits there, not sure where to start, no water is dumped in that I can tell, is there anything I should check first before simply replacing the unit?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Vance R]

2 hours ago, FreddyK said:

so I unplugged it until I could get back to it.

Presume you just unplugged ice maker.  If the freezer door is open the light switch removes power from the ice maker. Remove the end cover from the ice maker. The module has several letter imprinted on it, with a jumper wire jump T to H and push the door switch to turn off light. The ice maker should start a harvest cycle and after a few seconds you should hear a click. after you hear the click remove the jumper. Ice maker will complete the harvest cycle with a fill. If no movement is observed you will need to check for 120 vac at L and N with door switch held closed.

[FreddyK]

Yes, I just unplugged the ice maker itself.  I plugged the ice maker (4 pin unit) back in yesterday.

I inserted a jumper, the gear that states "Do not rotate Manually" went around, the sensor bar went up and down with the rotation, the ice cube plastic prongs inside the unit appears rotate/move with the rotation of the outside gear.

so wondering if there is a filter somewhere that is plugged or if the line itself has an issue or the switch to turn water on is stuck/bad.

Thanks again in advance

[Vance R]

Ok, good ice maker cycles. Check easy stuff first, fill tube is not blocked with ice. Water tube should go directly from water valve to fill tube. If your refrig has a water dispenser does it work ok?

Cycle the ice maker and measure V to N, when ice maker calls for water there should be about 100vac. Can also be check at water valve. 

[FreddyK]

This fridge doesn't have the water dispenser.  

I'm afraid I don't have a wiring diagram for this, and the 4 wires don't have any markings.  white is on the bottom, then Green/Yellow, Brown and then Black.  

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@FreddyK Did you make sure to remove the jumper from the T-H after the ice maker started to rotate and you hear the first slight click from the ice maker?

[Vance R]

White is neutral - N on module

Green/yellow is ground

Brown is voltage going to water valve - V on module

Black is line voltage - L on module

For a wiring diagram parts select has them with the exploded views.

[FreddyK]

well, this is odd.  

So the bar drops when this red mark on the dial/gear hits 5 o'clock.  There are 3 clicks at around 5-6 o'clock and another at 9 o'clock.  

I have no way of setting myself in between the connection, so i tried to sneak 2 paper clips (Making sure they don't short out) I was getting ready to test after the bar drops, it dropped and then all of a sudden, everything quit., nothing turns and all I'm getting is 14vac on N and L.  Is there a temperature sensor that shuts this all down?  I took everything out of the freeze, and shut it off so I could work.  For now I put everything back and will check back in a bit if everything is back to normal.

[Vance R]

On the side of ice maker the black wire has a safety temp fuse clipped to the mold.

[FreddyK]

As soon as the ice maker cooled down, the unit was operating again as previous. I ended up taking the unit out so I can verify that water would come out.  I jumped 1 and 2 on the fridge side and water came out as expected.  I'm working on being able to provide power to the unit separate from the fridge so I can better troubleshoot the unit.

[FreddyK]

So pulled the unit out of the freezer, ran through 2 cycles with standard 110 (Black, Neutral, Ground) and my multi meter between neutral and brown and it never went past 2v.  So not sure what to make of why the water is not being called.

 

 I have also attached a photo of some corrosion that I don't know if this makes a difference or not or if I should replace...

[Vance R]

Doesn't look good may just be time for a new ice maker.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

13 hours ago, Vance R said:

Doesn't look good may just be time for a new ice maker.

I agree with Vance - with all that corrosion around the heater there is a good chance the heater connection ends that engage into the module head has corroded or shorted from the water leakage.

The heater is in series with the water valve power out circuit so if the ends or connections in the module are damaged and/or the circuit trace board behind the big plastic gear is damaged you get no water.