Whirlpool washer model WTW5900TW0 very noisy

[AWSHandy]

The washer is knocking loudly at end of spin cycle or if lid is lifted and tub slows down/brakes.  Important:  About 7 months ago I replaced the drive block and it fixed the problem for 7 months, now it is back.  I cannot believe that the drive block would wear out this quickly.  What about the clutch?  Could it cause this noise if worn out?  Any help appreciated.

[vee8power]

Take the agitator off and look at the top of the drive block.  Maybe you didn't tighten the basket nut enough. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

13 hours ago, vee8power said:

Take the agitator off and look at the top of the drive block.  Maybe you didn't tighten the basket nut enough. 

This, but more then likely it reoccurred because you didn't repair the tabs on the spin tube or replace the spin tube.

If you already had a drive block strip out and make the banging noise when tub stops then the drive tabs on the spin tub have been bent over and will tear up a new drive block in no time at all if you didn't repair the tabs, (I take a tapered chisel and carefully tap it between the bent tabs and the agitator shaft until the tabs line up good and clean on the drive block - turning drive block upside down to check and test fitment).

Or just replace the basket drive assembly for another $100 to $130.

[AWSHandy]

Thank you Willie.  I am not completely following though.  I am not sure what the tabs on the spin tube are.  Are you talking about the splines on the agitator?  Also, would a new drive block and basket drive likely eliminate the knocking noise at END OF SPIN CYCLE?

 

[AWSHandy]

Also, Willie...can yiu refer me to any photos or videos?

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@AWSHandy New basket drive and drive block would solve all your problems.

The agitator shaft is what has the splines.  The drive block has two notches in the center top section - those two notches are what the top of the basket drive engage into to drive the basket.

If you look at the top of the basket drive, (at the base of the splined agitator shaft that sticks out of the basket drive), you will see the tabs that should engage into the top of the drive block.   You should be able to notice on each of those tabs one edge will be even and square to the reset of the drive tube and the other edge of each tab will be bent over.

To repair I take a wedged chisel and carefully drive it between each of the bent tabs and the agitator shaft to work the bent over tabs back out square with the drive tube.  Instead of putting the drive block all the way back on to check fit you turn the drive block upside down to make sure the tabs fit good and even/clean in the tab cutouts in the drive block.