KUIX305ESS1 Under counter ice maker - not making ice

[EITlongago]

Kitchenaid under counter icemaker Model #KUIX305ESS1, not making ice. 

Ice was getting thin, and the unit was due to be cleaned, so I cleaned it (ran clean cycle using recommended solution), and replaced the water filter.  After that, it won't make ice at all.  I ran the diagnostic routine, and it looks like all components are working.  The only one that has me questioning is the water valve, which initially did not come on because the water bin was filled.  However, when I drained the reservoir, the third light began blinking (as indicated in the diagnostic routine guide), HOWEVER, the reservoir did NOT fill with water.  I'm guessing that it should have begun to 'fill' as soon as I drained the bin?  Thanks in advance for your help.

[EITlongago]

Update: I removed the water filter and put it in diagnostic mode again, and still nothing from the water valve diagnostic. I would think that the point of the diagnostic would be to see if the water valve would open. Thus, when I get to the 'water valve' portion of the diagnostic, water would flow somewhere (into the filter chamber, into the reservoir, maybe all over my floor...) during the test, right? Am I missing something about the diagnostic routine? 

p.s. When I get to the water valve diagnostic, something is definitely happening electronically - the valve is humming, and it even sounds like maybe water is flowing (or at least trying to flow), but water is not appearing anywhere. I'm assuming that means that water isn't making it past the valve, but again, maybe I'm missing something about the diagnostic routine?  Seems elementary, but I don't want to assume I have it figured out before spending a bundle on an expensive valve I don't need.

[ECtoFix]

Part of a diagnostics mode is to enable technicians to manually operate components outside of the system's USUAL calls for them to function during a normal cycle.  What's missing in your "diagnostics routine" is that you're not using the feature to its full advantages.

So, you heard the valve "hum"...mmmm:

• Did you connect a voltmeter across the valve's terminals to see what voltage it's getting?  Per a photo of the valve on one of the parts websites, the valve should be getting 120v or thereabouts when you observe it humming.  In the unlikely event that you're getting far less than 120v, but just enough to make it hum, then there's a control voltage issue.
• Did you disconnect the valve inlet tube and check to ensure adequate water pressure is getting to it? 
• If so, did you do the same at its outlet while the valve is energized.

Doing the above will verify whether it's indeed the valve, or whether your problem lies elswhere.

FYI: Per a picture of that valve I looked at, it appears to use John Guest style quick-connect fittings.  Here's a video explaining how to connect & disconnect those types of fittings:

 

[ECtoFix]

BTW:  As the video alludes to, you must first relieve water pressure from the line before attempting to disconnect.  If you don't, you won't be able to disconnect it.

[EITlongago]

Thanks for your help ECtoFix.  I first wanted to confirm that I wasn't missing something about the diagnostic routine before taking tools to my machine, but I think you confirmed that I'm on the right track.  I took your advice, and this is what I learned:

1) 120 V across the leads to the valve verified.

2) Water pressure coming from the line into the valve is strong.  Pressure was good enough to ricochet right out of the bowl I was using and made a mess!

3) Water pressure coming OUT of the valve when energized was very weak - about that of an old man with prostate issues.  I took a video and will attempt to post below.  However, based on this, I'm guessing that the water valve is indeed my issue.  Thanks so much for your input.

https://imgur.com/a/zFS4t8f

 

[ECtoFix]

4 hours ago, EITlongago said:

about that of an old man with prostate issues

LOL!  Great description. 

Glad I could help.  Thanks for the feedback.
 

[A Benton]

need your help.  I have this same ice maker Kitchenaid KUIX305ESSI.  The unit has been taken apart and cleaned.  I have removed the water line from the valve and turned on and filled a glass with water to verify water is available.  I have new valve and connected.  When i hit clean or max.. the circulation pump will start.. but do not have 120volts to the valve. Can you direct me to next place to look for failure? Water level switch??? 

[Nathaniel Peterson]

On 8/31/2023 at 9:24 PM, A Benton said:

need your help.  I have this same ice maker Kitchenaid KUIX305ESSI.  The unit has been taken apart and cleaned.  I have removed the water line from the valve and turned on and filled a glass with water to verify water is available.  I have new valve and connected.  When i hit clean or max.. the circulation pump will start.. but do not have 120volts to the valve. Can you direct me to next place to look for failure? Water level switch???

You have to unscrew the drain cap to let out the water in the reservoir then replace the cap. Then put in 16 oz. bottle of approved ice maker cleaner then fill the bottle twice with water and pour down the reservoir. Takes 70 minutes. If there's still cleaner in the reservoir when it's done then pour 3 bottles of water and run another clean cycle. If you haven't cleaned it in a while do the steps with the cleaner twice. Make sure if any cleaner left in reservoir fill up 3 bottles and pour in reservoir and run clean cycle again to flush out cleaner.

[A Benton]

Nathaniel.. Thanks for replying... but...  i hope your response was not to my question as how to descale the unit has nothing to do with how to diagnose an issue with a "No Power" condition on the water control valve or diagnosing a failed control board.  We have had the unit since 2013 and it has been descaled every 90 days for years.