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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

I replaced the tub seal and put it back together and now it wont power on. I double and triple checked that everything is plugged in. I did some testing:

I have 120V coming out of the noise filter

I have 120V at pin 1 and 3 of CN5

I have 120V at pin 1 of CN5 and pin 1 of CN6

 

I see some mentions of the door switch causing the machine to not work. Would a faulty door switch cause the machine to not turn on at all (no lights, etc)?

 

Thank you,

 

-g

Posted
17 hours ago, gonzo77 said:

I have 120V at pin 1 and 3 of CN5

I just have to ask this...

Is that where you placed your test leads?   With one test lead at pin 1 while the other at pin 2...in order to read 120v?

Posted
On 5/16/2020 at 2:16 PM, ECtoFix said:

I just have to ask this...

Is that where you placed your test leads?   With one test lead at pin 1 while the other at pin 2...in order to read 120v?

No, 1 and 3. Where did you get 1 and 2 from?

Posted

OK, sounds like you have power to the control board.

Where you able to enter service mode and check for errors or run any diagnostics?

Looks like if the door switch is open the control board will not get neutral to CN7 pin 2.

That neutral completes the circuit with the relay that connects L1 to all the relays/switches connected to C10 on the control board including the door lock.

If the door switch is closed you will get 120V from CN7 pin 2 to CN5 pin 1.

- Jim

MAH8700A_Wire_Diagram.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, gonzo77 said:

No, 1 and 3. Where did you get 1 and 2 from?

Apologies.  My misguided finger found 2 instead of 3 on the keyboard.  I merely wanted to confirm that you were NOT using ground as a reference (a common mistake).  Reading between pins 1 and 3 was correctly done.

Anyway.  @Jim Westfall will likely be more help to you.

Posted
2 hours ago, Jim Westfall said:

OK, sounds like you have power to the control board.

Where you able to enter service mode and check for errors or run any diagnostics?

Looks like if the door switch is open the control board will not get neutral to CN7 pin 2.

That neutral completes the circuit with the relay that connects L1 to all the relays/switches connected to C10 on the control board including the door lock.

If the door switch is closed you will get 120V from CN7 pin 2 to CN5 pin 1.

- Jim

 

Hi Jim,

I am unable to enter service mode, when I hold down Chime and Extra Rinse nothing happens. The panel seems to be unresponsive to anything. No lights, etc. 

I'm kind of thinking the control board went bad but I'm hoping it is something else as the control boards are discontinued. 

Thanks,

-g

Posted
1 hour ago, ECtoFix said:

Apologies.  My misguided finger found 2 instead of 3 on the keyboard.  I merely wanted to confirm that you were NOT using ground as a reference (a common mistake).  Reading between pins 1 and 3 was correctly done.

Anyway.  @Jim Westfall will likely be more help to you.

No worries. Yes, I was going between pins 1 and 3. Thanks for checking tho! :)

Posted (edited)

Gonzo,

It might be a issue with the UI.  Have you checked that there is a good connection from the UI to the main board?

 If it turns out to be the control board you can get it rebuilt for $150 ….. shop around but here's one option https://www.partsimple.com/whirlpool-34001498-wp34001498-washer-control-board.html

- Jim

Edited by Jim Westfall
grammer, added info
Posted

Ok, I'll check that out. lt wasn't taken apart or anything and it seemed ok but I'll double check. 

Quick question: Is it possible for the door switch to take out the panel like this with no lights and unable to go into service mode?

Posted

Have you checked the control lock feature?

Screen Shot 2020-05-18 at 7.51.08 PM.png

Posted

 

4 hours ago, WOOKIE said:

Have you checked the control lock feature?

Screen Shot 2020-05-18 at 7.51.08 PM.png

Yea, that doesn't work either. Not even the power button works. 

Posted

yea , I am thinking that it is a problem with the circuit board.  The power switch appears to complete the circuit from cn7 to all the relays on cn10

Posted
15 hours ago, gonzo77 said:

Ok, I'll check that out. lt wasn't taken apart or anything and it seemed ok but I'll double check. 

Quick question: Is it possible for the door switch to take out the panel like this with no lights and unable to go into service mode?

 Have you verified you are getting neutral to CN7 pin 2?

Again,  CN7 pin 2 connects to a transistor controlled traic ( start switch controlled?) gating the relay coil at AC1 and AC2. 

The relay at AC1 and AC2 energizes a L1 buss. The schematic is vague here so it is not clear if that L1 buss also powers 

the to AC to DC circuit that powers the display.

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