Kenmore Elite Dryer 11062932100 High Limit Fuse Issue

[JasonPeter]

Background: had the unit for 10+ years, but got it used after our 12 year old prior Kenmore bit the dust.  So, after 10 years of use beyond our used purchase I'm not surprised when the heating element goes bad.  Order a kit with heating element, thermostat and the two thermal fuses.  Flip it on and it works but then shuts off within about 45-60 sec.  Reset the high limit fuse using the trick where you firmly "slam" it onto a hard surface and try it with the dryer disconnected from the vent to the outside.  Seems to work for quite a few minutes.  Order a new thermistor just in case and install that, then clean out the dryer vent (tons of lint and not surprised if it is overheating from a lack of airflow) so I figure that's it.  Hook it back up and seems to be ok but high limit fuse blows again.

Tonight I plan on trying to dry a full load with the back of the dryer connected only to an inside the house filter unit I picked up at Lowes (which keeps all the hot exhaust in the room).  If that does not work what else could it be that would possibly have the heating element not cycling down soon enough to avoid the high limit fuse blowing?

Jason

[Vance R]

If thermal fuse fails with house vent disconnected.  Start with making sure the dryer has good airflow internally. Pull the toe plate and empty duct area were the lint trap inserts, make sure blower wheel is clean and internal tube is clear. Next would be to measure voltage at the output of heater relay and L2. This should cycle between 0 vac and 220 vac, this means the board is controlling the temperature.  If the voltage goes to 0 and element stay on that indicates one of the heater coils is touching the case.

[Slav]

Little tip... check the lint filter. It may look clean, but won't allow the air through, due to clear build-up from dryer-sheets regularly added for better smell. Try to run the filter through the faucet water, and see if it's flowing through easily.