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Posted

Our old (17 years) stove is acting up. Recently replaced one of the infinite controllers for an element- the element would not turn off. That was fine, works great with replacement switch. Another element was not heating all the way up. Replaced element. But, now, that element works great, but only when the other element on the same side is turned on. These are wired together in series, looks like. How to diagnose and fix this two-for-one element? Thinking wire connection snafu, or a wire or connection fault.

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Posted

Nope.  Not supposed to be connected in series.  I don't know how you could've done that.

The 240v power wires should be connected to the infinite switches at L1 and L2.  Those wires might be "daisy-chained" between the two (or more) switches in order to deliver 240v to both switches through the same two wire set that's probably leading up from the main input terminal block in the back of the unit (I don't have a diagram).

H1 and H2 are the output terminals to power an element.  Each element should be connected H1 and H2 of their respective infinite switches. 

Posted

Ok, just to clear up the terminology...daisy chain, sure, definitely parallel circuit (otherwise bad voltage drop if in a sense-strictu series, yes?).

I am dealing with the left two stove elements. Before, the small, front element was not heating up fully. Back, large element worked fine.

After replacing the small element, it did not work at all when everything was plugged in. But, discovered that front burner would work “perfectly” when the back burner was turned on- with the other burner on, you can turn on, off, up, down, seems fine. Perfectly is in quotes because it is not perfect if that burner is a two-for-one deal...

After flipping the 220 v breaker, opened the top, verified that the leads to the new element have been connected to their proper places.

What are the possible causes?

Posted

More info from the multimeter.

Both elements have plugs labeled 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b

plug 1b on the small front element is connected with red wire leading from plug 1b of the large rear element.

i am testing the wires that lead to the small front element, with switches in different settings

with both the front element and rear element switches off, no continuity between any combo of those four wires. This is good, I think.

with switch for the front element on, continuity between wires connecting 2b and 1a, no continuity for all others (when energized, the front element does not heat up)

with front element switch off, rear element switch on, I get continuity between 1b and 2b wires that go to the front element, no continuity for other wires (when energized, rear element heats up, front does not)

with both front and rear element switches on, I get continuity between 1a and 1b, and between 1b and 2b. For 1b and 2a, I get a resistance of 27 Ohms (and when energized, both front and rear elements are on and controllable)

any ideas?

 

Posted

I hadn't realized this range is a ceramic top with surface elements.  At any rate, the FRONT and REAR elements have nothing to do with each other.

Look, 1a and 1b are only for energizing the hot surface indicator light circuit. 1a and 1b have NOTHING to do with energizing a heating element, so don't be doing any readings across those 1s to the 2s.  They're two separate circuits. 

2a serves as one of the two inputs for the actual element coil (and common if it's a dual or triple element assembly).  I suggest connecting the wire from H2 of the infinite switch to the 2a terminal on the element.  (2b isn't a factor since it's is permanently connected [welded] to one side of the element.)

Over to the side of that ceramic enclosure bearing those aforementioned terminals, there's another terminal of by itself for connecting the OTHER element input (I don't know the terminal number) if it's just a single coil element.  The wire leading from H1 of the infinite switch should be connected to that terminal.

Here's a little video which might offer some clarity:

 

 

BTW:  I don't know anything about wire colors on your stove since I don't have a schematic/wiring diagram for that range unit.

Posted

Here's a video that is more in depth.  It's not your Amana, but they're similar:

 

Posted

Last thing to say about this. You might want to check ALL connections for evidence of overheating.

I can't really offer much more without being there to put my own eyeballs on it.

Posted

Thanks. I had watched the two videos, and a few more, earlier. They were helpful, to a point, as the focus was on either the element, or the switch. Tomorrow I will check the switches. I did check the connections, looked for scorch or other evidence, of the connectors for all four elements. Nothing obviously wrong, but the wires are showing age, wrapping is flaky. The oven is 17 years old, and has had a lot of use.

i will reiterate that, while it is true the two heating elements are separate, it is also true that at present one of the elements (the smaller one) only heats when the larger element is also turned on. I am also fairly certain (90%) that the connections are correct, as I documented the set up pretty well before disconnecting anything. So, what can cause this?

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