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    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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WFW94HEXW2 Whirlpool front load washer help: bad 12 v supply?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey first post !

so I’m not getting anything on start up. Door kept getting stuck in lock and wouldn’t drain or do anything. So I started by taking apart drain and cleaning filters  checking ohms and that its runs if connected to ac. All good pump runs connected to ac. OHmed out according to spec. 
 

second thought was must be switch so I took door switch apart, connected to power it locks and unlocks successfully and  the switch works shows open closed  etc.  The ohms show twice what the diagram says 50 -7o ohm and I’m getting like 140— it’s possible I’m not using my dmm correctly. But I’m checking each side to neutral ( lock and unlock)  in short , connected directly to ac it all works, 

just for kicks I run ac to inlet valves they all work. 

by this time I’m into a diagram and tech manuals. I put it in diagnostic to run tests, when it goes in to the first test ( Drain) nothing happens. So i go to mcu and look for big visible stuff blown capacitors etc: all looks good . So I go to ccu and perform voltage tests per tech manual . I’m not getting my 5v or 12 v .  On my pin 7( ground) to pin 2 I get 1.3 v. I get 5 v pin 7 to pin 3. And I think I get 1.3 v pin 3 to 2. So I disconnect anything on ccu harness that looks like it’s running vcc ( ps8) set2, ui7, mi3, d16, dcs8 still voltage situation doesn’t improve . According to tech manual it’s says replace ccu.
 

I’m not a tech but I’m trying not to be a parts replacer, ( by this time I should have called one) my wife says it’s the ccu module and she knew that fro, you tube two weeks ago lol —- and I’m waiting time playing service tech. 
 

anyway question is : sound like the ccu ? I hate to buy parts to be wrong....

was cool finding this site , I’ll be sure to check it out. Curios what the average tech gets and whether it’s more than what I get paid—-I. Thinking of switching carrers. But in the time it took me to do this I think I better not quit my day job...

Posted
5 hours ago, Bjornk said:

I put it in diagnostic to run tests,

Did you pull error codes? 

Look at a few jobs sites for you area to get and idea of wages. 

Posted

Vance,

F6 E1 was error code ccu to mcu. 
 

i am re reading  manual and retracing steps to be certain and imagining the order may matter. I didn’t do every single test in order I skipped to things that seemed accessible and manageable with my skill set— or lack therof.  But I’m feeling a bit better so may just go back through step by step. 
 

my biggest questions are could the ohms on the door lock be so far off and it still be functional if it runs straight to ac - which it is — but not operable by the ccu. 
 

and is there any reason why I wouldn’t get my 5v ref  between pins 1-2  or 7  and 2 on connector ui7 and get 5 v between 1 and 3. I had every vcc connector disconnected when I took the reading —- and I took it multiple times —-which seems to imply bad ccu power supply.
 

im gonna go back thru test step by step.

Posted

Ok, now we are going some where - F6E1 communications error between ccu and mcu. Follow the instructions for this  error code. To check the drive components manually - spin the basket by hand and listen for noise, then push up on the basket to check for play in the bearings - do this in 6 to 12 places.  Power to the MCU goes through the door lock - put your meter probes on the 2 pink wire at the motor conrtoller and start the washer, when the door lock locks there should be 120 vac for a moment. The CCU will turn off power when it senses no reponse from the MCU.  At the MCU there should be dc voltage at the outer 2 blue wires ( forget the level, should be 5 or 12 vdc). Let us know whhat you find in your tests.

Posted

Vance, the more I mess with this thing the more it has me scratching my head . 
 

i put it in service diagnostics mode again and found 3 codes: f6e2, f8e2, and f5e2. I cleared the codes and plan on running it again to see if it throws codes. What basically happens is it makes a few clicks, locks the door and then nothing happens.

i ran it through the quick diagnostic but it typically doesn’t get past co2. 
 

when I turn the drum, it starts with little resistance buts gets very resistant fast. I disconnected from power : it doesn’t seem like the braking thing because it doesn’t get better. 
 

well I’m feeling dumb, because this is s starting to feel mechanical and all this time I’ve been thinking electrical..geez.  Seems like bearings are shot: sound like things are rolling around in there. Gonna check that out 

Posted

But yes I will go through your tests. It seems to lock door and then not allow it to unlock, 

Posted

I’m starting to think my problem is caused by a fluffy australian shepherd i know ...much simpler . Except it looks likes this Tub can’t be taken apart. So guess it’s the end of this machine ? I got the set used for 350 and it was lightly used. I’d be pretty pissed right now had I paid market value for this thing..

maybe I can pressure wash it out.

Posted

So I used a 12 v circuit tester to clean out some clumps of dog hair Because it was nearby and the correct size and it lights up when I touch the drum and the washer is not plugged in. Anyone want to explain this to me.? Is this the magnetic brake ? Talk to me like I’m dumb because apparently I may be...

Posted
54 minutes ago, Bjornk said:

when I turn the drum, it starts with little resistance buts gets very resistant fast.

This a direct drive motor if you spin it too fast the magnets start generating voltage and is like slamming on the brakes.  Have no idea about your circuit tester. Did you take any voltage measurements?

 

Posted

No I have bothered yet. It seems like there’s an obstruction or the bearings are shot, it’s hard to turn it even a couple revolutions then it sounds like something is rolling in the drum. Can’t tell if it’s something in the drum or this is what shot bearings sound like. The drums has no wobble and turns smoothly ..just needs a lot more force than you would think it needs. Like you arm gets tired after a couple revolutions...after several revolutions its sounds like rattling and  soft marbles 

Posted
1 minute ago, Bjornk said:

after several revolutions its sounds like rattling and  soft marbles 

Not sure if this one has a balance ring to aid in balancing loads.  Balance rings have large ballbearing in a viscous fluid and sound odd.

  • Like 1
Posted

Can you make a video of you turning the drum?  Also is there new err codes after you erased them? 

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