Maytag Dryer No advance on auto MEDC215EW1

[Chris Knable]

OK I have a tough one for you (sorry for the long post). Recent acquired Maytag MEDC215EW1 Electric Dryer. Problem was no tumble.

Replaced fuse on blower housing (open). Tested and working.

Shut dyer off and noticed heating coil still on (shorted to case). Replaced heater coil. Fixed that problem.

Tested again. Works fine on timed and air fluff modes, Timer wont advance on Auto. Tested timer motor-working fine.

After significant research and discovering that the cycling thermostat controls the timer advance (no humidity/moister bars on this model), I changed the cycling thermostat. Same problem.

Since there's nothing else to replace, I ordered a new timer. While waiting for this to arrive I continued to study the issue. I work on and test units in my garage, and its been pretty cold lately. So I thought maybe the colder air temps may have been prolonging the heater coil being on (no advance) before the cycling thermostat kicked off. So, I replaced the stock cycling thermostat (255-25) to a different one with a lower temp spec (215-10). So the cycling thermostat is kicking off earlier than before and the unit now advances in auto mode.

So the question is, do lower air intake temps cause this problem? What do customers do who run their dryers in their garage or a carport when its cold?

 

Follow-up post: I installed a new timer and I have the same problem.

[evaappliance]

The colder it is the longer the heater has to stay on , timer only advances in the auto cycle when the heater is cycled off.   I have a elbow And several feet of vent in my shop that I stick on the back when it is colder to slow the airflow A little , works most of the time. 

[Quick]

5 hours ago, Chris Knable said:

Follow-up post: I installed a new timer and I have the same problem.

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

17 hours ago, Chris Knable said:

So, I replaced the stock cycling thermostat (255-25) to a different one with a lower temp spec (215-10).

So, from this statement, I would have to assume you don't know what the cycling thermostat is since this one you said you replaced is NOT the cycling t-stat and should not ever be cycling on this Hi-Limit Safety T-stat if the vent isn't blocked and you have good air flow.

The operation or cycling t-stat will be the on the blower housing, (not the heater housing), and will be rated at L155-25.

If either the cycling t-stat or the hi-limit t-stat open when in an auto dry cycle the timer motor should be getting 220vac and advancing the timer.

[Chris Knable]

Yes I know what the cycling thermostat is, and that is the one I replaced (blower housing). I replaced it with another new one, and then I changed to the lower temperature value. I think the reply from evaappliance makes sense so I will try that.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

18 hours ago, Chris Knable said:

I replaced the stock cycling thermostat (255-25) to a different one with a lower temp spec (215-10).

So then, this is a a mis-type?    and you meant you replaced the 155-25 cycling t-stat with a 115-10?

and testing in the shop without a vent attached to make a little back pressure can make it take a lot longer to get up to cycling temp.

When I test one in the field with the vent off, I hold a rag over half the vent outlet on the back of the dryer with my thermometer at the top to make some back pressure so it heats up to cycling temp quicker.   With where the cycling t-stat is on this style without a vent attached you get way to much airflow and can show lower then expected temps and take a long time to cycle the operating t-stat.

[Chris Knable]

Makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the help!