Jump to content
Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade. Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology.

KitchenAid KRSF505ESS00 broken wiring


Recommended Posts

CrazyCarl

I was at a clients house repairing a few broken wires down below the freezer door. I’ve done this repair several times on other refrigerators and most of the time the wiring just keeps on breaking. Either my repair breaks or (more often) the wires break in a different spot. Any tips on repairing these? So far I always tell the client that the best fix I can do is replace the door since all the wiring comes with a new door but you can’t get the wiring separately. Maybe just poor design on Whirlpool’s part

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 2
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • CrazyCarl

    1

  • Josh Smith

    1

  • Bart56

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

I've repaired this model's broken wiring and like you, it broke a year later in the original wires that I didn't touch. First time it was 5 wires. Next time it was 3 additional ones. The last time, my fixed wired were cracking in new places and only 2 or 3 wires were in tact.

My next attempt, I unplugged the wiring harness from te base of the fridge and closed the freezer door and was able to spend time stripping back the original plastic covering without taking any food out. I was feeling pretty clever about that.  Next, I added about 3 inches of new wire for all - I cut any that were still intact. It took a while but it made the harness 2 - 3 inches longer.  

I then covered it in some of that automotive style bendy tubing and shoved an inch of the covering into the freezer door, then leaving it free so that the whole thing moved through a modified clamp at the bottom of the fridge. I thought I was being real clever. This fix lasted almost 2 years when the owner called me to say they really don't need the Icemaker that bad. This was last summer (2020). Now when the whole control panel goes dead, they'll probably replace the fridge because the freezer door lists for around $1400 and the odds of the stainless looking different is likely pretty high.

Bottom line: Terrible design at the hinge point and really sub-quality insulation on the factory wires. If there was a plug at both ends of the harness, this would not be a problem - simply replace the harness.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.