Maytag Electric Dryer Issue

[Jeff Whiteis]

Maytag Electric Dryer: Dryer shuts off randomly in the middle of any cycle. Sometimes it doesn’t start right back up, sometimes it does.  

 

Dryer turns off randomly after 5-10 minutes.  Sometimes sooner, sometimes it runs a little longer. 

 

Cycle thermostat seems to be working - I can see the heating coils turn on and off randomly when its running. 

 

Even on “no heat tumble” the dryer randomly turns off. Dryer randomly turns off on any setting. 

 

Dryer has heat. The drum spins fine with normal resistance. 

 

When dryer randomly stops and wont start again the dryer inside light does not work.  But the light work once the dryer is running and the door is open.

 

When dryer doesn’t want to start again, I can hear a weird clicking sound when I press the start button. 

 

Dryer has a history of blowing the thermal fuse. Have replaced it twice in the past 9 months.

 

There are no clogs in the vent hose, no clogs in the blower fins, and no clogs in the exhaust duct.  

[Josh Smith]

Did you check the wall outlet? What is the model number?

[MichTech517]

We need a model number to help you with your question. There are a few things that can cause the this issue.

[Jeff Whiteis]

Maytag #medc215ew1

[evaappliance]

after you check the outlet and power , i have had several acting this way that was the thermal fuse , it doesn't make any sense that a thermal could do that , yet it does .   also it is the cheapest part on the dryer , not much to risk  

[Jeff Whiteis]

The dryer has 240V at the terminals.

 I tested both thermosats and the thermal fuse for continuity.  All good there.  

The cycling thermostat has 4 terminals total, the main terminals have continuity but the 2 terminals where the 2 purple wires go do not.  Not sure if thats normal or not.

The dryer wont turn on at all now. But I can hear a buzzing/clicking sound when I try to start the dryer.  The inside light wont work either.

I can hear the timer when I put the dryer on the timer setting. 

[evaappliance]

49 minutes ago, Jeff Whiteis said:

thermal fuse for continuity.

Check it when it quits

[Jeff Whiteis]

Dryer wont currently start. I jumped the 2 wires, bypassing the thermal fuse, it still wont start.

Tested Door switch too - it has continuity too.

[evaappliance]

If power is good , thermal and door switch is good , the timer is next.

timers on these are very prone to fail , cross the blue and black wire on back of the timer, plug it in and see if it starts

[Jeff Whiteis]

When you say cross the blue and black wire on the back of the timer - you mean to just temporarily touch them together?

[Econo Appliance]

7 hours ago, Jeff Whiteis said:

The cycling thermostat has 4 terminals total, the main terminals have continuity but the 2 terminals where the 2 purple wires go do not. 

That is normal.  

 

Can you make it run by helping turn drum by hand while pressing/turning start switch?   W/ door switch closed

[evaappliance]

8 hours ago, Jeff Whiteis said:

you mean to just temporarily touch them together?

Yes, put a jumper wire between the two , then try to start it the normal way, if it starts with the jumper you will have a bad timer

[Josh Smith]

14 hours ago, evaappliance said:

If power is good , thermal and door switch is good , the timer is next.

timers on these are very prone to fail , cross the blue and black wire on back of the timer, plug it in and see if it starts

Good call on this one..............

 

[Jeff Whiteis]

Jump these 2 wires? Hopefully yes, LOL, because when I did - i plugged in the power cord and when i turned the timer knob it went “poof!” 

[Jeff Whiteis]

Prior to jumping the wires I tested the prongs on the timer itself (where i unplugged that harness from) and there was no continuity.  Is that normal?

[evaappliance]

nope,  the , light blue and the big black wire ,   didn't say anything about a blue and white wire , that just goes to the timer motor 

[evaappliance]

on the bottom left quick disconnect

[Jeff Whiteis]

i tested those terminals on the back of timer motor (from the disconnected harness in the pic) and rotated the knob on different settings and the multimeter remained on “OL” the entire time.

[Jeff Whiteis]

10 minutes ago, evaappliance said:

nope,  the , light blue and the big black wire ,   didn't say anything about a blue and white wire , that just goes to the timer motor 

No problem, that was my bad. Lol. 

[Jeff Whiteis]

So just to confirm...jumo the 2 wires (black and light blue) that are circled in yellow?

[Jeff Whiteis]

Quick question before I jump the black and light blue wires - do i disconnect the harness and add a jumper wire to the 2 corresponding spots on the harness or leave the harness plugged in and shave off some of the sheathing and connect a jumper wire between the 2 wires?  Or should I just cut the black and blue wires from the harness and connect them together temporarily?

[evaappliance]

yes , and leave it plugged in, don't cut the wires , just stick a jumper in where it plugs to the timer

[Jeff Whiteis]

So leave the entire harness plugged in and use a jumper wire on the exposed terminals on top of the harness for the blue & black wires? 

[evaappliance]

22 minutes ago, Jeff Whiteis said:

So leave the entire harness plugged in and use a jumper wire on the exposed terminals on top of the harness for the blue & black wires? 

Yes

[Jeff Whiteis]

Just want to confirm - this white wire (highlighted in yellow) is pushed into and touching the terminals that goto the black and light blue wire. That good? Sorry, just trying to prevent another spark lol.