Maytag A107A Washing Machine Repair

[bobrcl]

I have had a Maytag A107A washer for 25 years.  I bought it used from a person whose wife wanted a "new" looking washer.  It was in very good condition - the person said that just for something to do would take it completely apart and put it back together again for five years he had it.  It has worked flawlessly for me.  This thing is a beast.  However, I noticed that it leaks when the rinse water comes into the washer.  It doesn't leak during the wash or spin cycle, just when the tub fills with rinse water, and the last cycle rinses while spinning.  I believe it's a washer or a gasket; only about a cup of water leaks out from inside the housing onto my basement floor.  This is a very old Maytag, when Maytag repairmen weren't really needed.  I'm wondering if I should get it repaired, or should I recycle it since it has survived well long past its useful life.

[evaappliance]

3 hours ago, bobrcl said:

I have had a Maytag A107A washer for 25 years.  I bought it used from a person whose wife wanted a "new" looking washer.  It was in very good condition - the person said that just for something to do would take it completely apart and put it back together again for five years he had it.  It has worked flawlessly for me.  This thing is a beast.  However, I noticed that it leaks when the rinse water comes into the washer.  It doesn't leak during the wash or spin cycle, just when the tub fills with rinse water, and the last cycle rinses while spinning.  I believe it's a washer or a gasket; only about a cup of water leaks out from inside the housing onto my basement floor.  This is a very old Maytag, when Maytag repairmen weren't really needed.  I'm wondering if I should get it repaired, or should I recycle it since it has survived well long past its useful life.

always  check your drain first ! , if not that, there are several small things in the washer it can be , but you will need to be able to take the front off , and most likely raise the top to find it

[bobrcl]

Thank you.  The drain is clear.  The leak only happens when rinse water comes into the tub.  All of the other functions work ok.  That's why I thought it might be just a washer or gasket.  I figure because of its age it's worth calling for a repairman, I understand how things work, but I don't have experience in repair.  If I can get another few years out of it before something major happens, it's worth it to get this repair done before I think about replacing it.  I don't know enough even if I take the housing off and inspect the controls if what is wrong is replaceable, or have to replace a whole control if the leak is something that cannot be simply accessed.

[evaappliance]

Absolutely call to get it checked,  sounds like a little problem, keep it till it drops !

[bobrcl]

Righto!  They don't make them like they used to.  

[igloo]

I know what it is. It's the injector valve. You got to open the top and it sits just before where the fill hose enters the tub. There is a little plastic cage there with the injector nozzle inside. They had different minor modifications on that, the ends entering the tub were changed, but that's where the problem is on these. You're looking at one of these: WPY215234, WP215233, WP215235, 12001677. Most likely the last part number, the small injector tube. Unless the end of the tube is loose entering the tub or the seal there is missing.

 

On diagram see 2-13016, 2-13015, 2-15235, 2-15234, 2-15233. The 2-13016 is my guess.

Edited February 7, 2021 by igloo

[bobrcl]

Thank you, Sir Igloo:  I will save the mighty Maytag washing machine!

[igloo]

2 hours ago, bobrcl said:

Thank you, Sir Igloo:  I will save the mighty Maytag washing machine!

You're welcome.

If you want to make it last in the future, check underneath for signs of transmission oil around the center belt pulley, belt and the sidewalls. If it is slowly leaking, the transmission will eventually fail. First the oil will coat the belt making it slip and then get inside the brake package. The original brake package is serviceable, it can be taken apart (spring loaded!) and degreased. The new ones are sealed.

That transmission has a brass lip seal, not rubber even though on some diagrams it's listed as rubber. They cannot be fixed without taking the transmission out and even then not sure if the brass seal is serviceable. However the newer orbital transmission can be used as replacement and on those the rubber lip seal and gear case are serviceable without taking the transmission out. 

If the machine is a bit loud, I recommend replacing the damper pads part # 203956, cleaning the motor rails so the motor slides nice and sometimes the pump impeller paddles get worn inside where it doesn't move water well. Otherwise it's a very dependable machine. The only other weak point I can think of is that injector hose you're having problem with and sometimes the lid switch screw has to be adjusted if it runs with the lip open.

Here is a schematic for future reference to whoever may come across this tread.

Edited February 7, 2021 by igloo

[bobrcl]

Thank you sir.  It will not run with the lid open.  Everything works except the rise water problem.  I will post the results.  It looks like a lot of these dinosaurs are still working.  And thanks about the transmission tip.

[bobrcl]

On 2/6/2021 at 8:19 PM, igloo said:

I know what it is. It's the injector valve. You got to open the top and it sits just before where the fill hose enters the tub. There is a little plastic cage there with the injector nozzle inside. They had different minor modifications on that, the ends entering the tub were changed, but that's where the problem is on these. You're looking at one of these: WPY215234, WP215233, WP215235, 12001677. Most likely the last part number, the small injector tube. Unless the end of the tube is loose entering the tub or the seal there is missing.

 

On diagram see 2-13016, 2-13015, 2-15235, 2-15234, 2-15233. The 2-13016 is my guess.

Mr. Igloo:  You were correct.  The tech I hired knew what the parts were - he had them in his truck.  Parts 2-10135 and 2-10136.  Took him about 15 minutes to change them out.  Thanks for your tip.  Oh, he also took out the belts - they were dry and showed no oil or wear.  I rant it through a complete cycle - all better.