Diagnostic Mode Kenmore Elite Model 665-1276

[JRG]

I have a Kenmore Elite dishwasher that suddenly stopped mid cycle. The cycle lights light up as usual but when I hit start it does not run. I have read that resetting it through the diagnostic mode is often helpful but I can't get it to get into the diagnostic mode. I have tried pressing three cycle buttons in succession 3 times as instructed but nothing happens. I would appreciate any help. The model number is: 665-1276.

Thank you.

[Vance R]

There are some numbers missing from your model number. That family of dishwasher uses the 1-2-3 button routine to get into diag mode. . Push start to wake up control. Select any 3 keys and push 1,2,3   1,2,3  1,2,3 wit no more that 1 second between key presses. all leds should light up.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@Vance R from the description it really sounds like it is possibly the touch pad bad - (START key not working).

I can't remember if it says to wake up first then do the 123 or not but If it needs to be woke up then I think pushing a key besides START should also wake up the machine.

It been awhile since I've put one of these into diagnostic mode, waking the machine up first doesn't come to mind - I'm thinking 123 123 123 is done from a display in BLANK standby mode.

[JRG]

Thanks for getting back to me guys.  According to the manual the other model numbers; 3K312 are only related to the color. I have tried the 1,23, 1,2,3 1,2,3 and each press lights up the button but nothing happens after. I think the machine is  "awake" since the buttons all light up when pressed. When I hit start the regular cycle lights up (from memory) but after a few seconds it just shuts off and the cancel light turns red.

[JRG]

Also, and I'm not sure if its related, but the "Add a Dish" light comes on when I hit Start along with the regular cycle lights.

[Vance R]

Does it do anything when you hit drain/ cancel?

[JRG]

No it doesn't.

[Vance R]

Ok need the full model number off of the dishwasher. In the mean time unplug DW and take off console and unplug the keyboard from the main module. Make it safe as possible and plug in DW to power. The DW should go into a drain cycle if the main board is ok. If no drain pump you'll need to confirm the door interlock switches are working correctly and power to the main board.

[JRG]

The model number is 665-12763K312.  I'll try unplugging the keyboard tomorrow and let you know, thanks.

[JRG]

Hi Vance.  I took off the console and unplugged the keyboard as you recommended.  When I turned the power back on nothing happened.  When I plugged the keyboard back in the "Normal Wash" and "Heated Dry" lights came on which is the regular setup we use to wash.  When I pressed "Start" the "Washing/Drying" and "Add a Dish" lights came on along with the "Start" light.  I could hear what sounds like the drain running for about a minute and then a low purring sound on and off for a minute or so before it shuts down and just the red "Cancel" light comes on.

[Vance R]

8 hours ago, JRG said:

I could hear what sounds like the drain running for about a minute and then a low purring sound on and off for a minute or so before it shuts down and just the red "Cancel" light comes on.

The purring sound coming from the water valve? Are you able to turn the cancel light off?

[JRG]

It's hard to pinpoint where the purring sound is coming from.  And, yes, I can turn off the Cancel light.

[Vance R]

The purring sound could be the fill vlave humming, diverter motor running, possiblbe fan motor or wash pump trying to start. Since the cancel key seems to work let backup and try to pull error codes.

[JRG]

I'm sorry, I don't know what you mean by, "let backup and try to pull error codes".

[Vance R]

12 hours ago, JRG said:

"let backup and try to pull error codes".

Just poor grammar on my part. Hoping since the dishwasher reponds to some user interface imput you could try going into diagonsyic mode and read the error codes.

[JRG]

The problem is it won't go into diagnostic mode.

[JRG]

The problem is it won't go into diagnostic mode.

[Vance R]

It still won't go into diagnostic mode were down to the module or the touch pad as @Budget Appliance Repair suggested. I would lean toward the module since it won't go into diagnostic made and it would not pump out with touch pad disconnected.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

On 2/21/2021 at 9:10 AM, Vance R said:

In the mean time unplug DW and take off console and unplug the keyboard from the main module. Make it safe as possible and plug in DW to power. The DW should go into a drain cycle if the main board is ok.

This model does have this keyboard test but you do have to close the door after the power is turned back on.

Here's the section from the techsheet (do you have it?):
 

Quote

Check responsiveness of each
key.
1. If some keys do not respond,
then:
- Unplug dishwasher or
disconnect power.
- Disassemble door and
disconnect keypad connection
from control or LCD display
module.
- Verify all other connections to
control are made.
- Reassemble door, but do not
close door.
- Plug in dishwasher or
reconnect power.
- Wait at least 7 seconds for
control to power up completely.
- Close dishwasher door and
monitor control response:
A. If control is OK (no longer
sees stuck keys with
keypad unplugged), it will
respond by turning on the
drain motor for 2 minutes.
Replace keypad and
console.
B. If control is not OK (still
sees stuck keys with
keypad unplugged), it will
not turn on drain motor.
Wait for at least
10 seconds. If there is still
no drain response, then
replace control or LCD
display module (whichever
one the keypad was
connected to).

 

Almost sounds like maybe you have a bad/sticking cancel key.

You say you can turn the cancel light off by pressing the CANCEL key.   Once that light next to the cancel key is off, have you tried to press and hold the CANCEL key to see if it starts a drain cycle?

Also check both ends of the keypad harness for any signs of green corrosion, (that can cause intermittent keypad problems).

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Also the part I wasn't sure about, (pushing start to wake up before doing the 123 123 123 @Vance R is correct).

Quote

1 To invoke the Diagnostics Cyle, perform the following while in standby:
■ Press Start key to wake up control panel.
■ Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more
than 1 second between key presses.
■ The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.
■ To rapid advance 1 interval at a time, press the Start/Resume key.
Rapid advance may skip sensor checks as some checks require 2
complete intervals.

 

[JRG]

Thanks everyone.  I wanted to catch you up on my progress.  I pulled the drain pump and found a broken blade so I replaced the pump.  I noticed I had kinked the copper supply hose so I replaced it with a flexible braided hose.  I could now hear it go into the draining cycle but strangely I was getting any water!  I replaced the hot water supply valve under the sink (It was old and deteriorating).  Still no water so I checked the water inlet valve for continuity and it tested ok. I also tested the overflow switch and it too was fine.  Since I still wasn't getting any water I tested the water inlet valve with a power cord and it worked fine.  Lastly, I hooked up my voltmeter to the inlet valve supply wires and ran a wash cycle to check to see if it was getting 120 volts.  It registers some voltage during the drain cycle but nothing when it should be filling.  When the dishwasher is just sitting in the off position with nothing selected I can hear it humming like it is trying to do something.  

[JRG]

Any suggestions?

[Vance R]

Check float switch. If thats good check for voltage at the control board.

[JRG]

In order to check the voltage to the float switch I cut the wires leading to the switch from the control board and attached female connectors.  I put the voltmeter on the connections and ran through the diagnostic cycle.  The meter jumps around from 200 to 600.  Is there a definitive way to test the switch this way?  How do I know when it's supposed to be getting 120v?

[Vance R]

8 hours ago, JRG said:

Is there a definitive way to test the switch this way?  How do I know when it's supposed to be getting 120v?

Start a cycle there will be a short drain period then it should start fill with water. Measure the voltage at the water valve. If you get 120vac the float switch is closed. Open the door and prop up the float and restart the cycle the voltage at the valve should drop to zero. If you prefer ohming just unplug the connector from the board and ohm from that connector. If you get resistance reading of water valve coil that means float switch is closed as well as wires and coil pass the first stage test. Then lift the float and reading should go to OL.