Maytag MEDX655DW1 dryer won't heat.

[WittyApp]

I couldn't get my dryer to work. 

First, I found out that the heating element and thermal cutoff having no continuity. I changed the genuine heating element (part#279838) and thermal cutoff fuse kit (part#2791816): the thermal cut-off fuse and the hi-limit thermostat.  It still didn't heat.

Second, I saw the timer burnt on the side metal plate even though it has continuity. Just to be sure, I change the timer as well. It still didn't heat.

Third, I checked the thermal fuse, and the dryer cycle thermostat. Both got continuity. 

Fourth, I checked the voltage from the outlet and got 240V. I checked the wire at the back of the dryer and read 240V. No problem with the voltage.

So far, I changed the heating element, the thermal cut-off fuse, the hi-limit thermostat, and the timer. I didn't change the thermal fuse and the dryer cycle thermostat yet. That the only two parts left that I didn't change as far as the heating is concerned. Is it possible that the thermal fuse and the dryer cycle thermostat have continuity but somehow prevent the dryer from heating up?

Anything else that I need to check? I don't know what to do at this point.

I appreciate any recommendations and directions. Thank you.

[DJJoshyBeats]

Hey, I don’t know if you’re still working on this one but I’ll weigh in.

If the thermal fuse is broken (no continuity) then the motor wouldn’t operate. I think your issue is either with the cycle thermostat or the timer motor. The cycle thermostat should have resistance of around 7kohms (I think) so you aren’t looking for continuity. If you look at the wiring diagram the top has a timer chart that shows which contacts of the timer motor will have continuity during which cycles. 

This video does a good job of explaining how the chart works (around the half way mark).

 

[WittyApp]

DJJoshyBeatsThank you for the direction. I'm still on it. I have checked the forum every few hours! 

I already changed the timer. I will definitely change the cycle thermostat. 

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thank you!!

[Josh Smith]

Did you check the centrifugal switch on the motor? Not super common but the do fail sometimes.

[WittyApp]

@Josh SmithIf nothing works, that would be the next thing for me to look into. Thank you for your suggestion.

[Josh Smith]

1 hour ago, WittyApp said:

@Josh SmithIf nothing works, that would be the next thing for me to look into. Thank you for your suggestion.

No problem, I missed that once on a dryer not heating, so I don't forget to check now. Again not a common failure but it does happen.

[evaappliance]

did you check the voltage with the dryer running ?  , if not do that 1st

[WittyApp]

Update. @DJJoshyBeats @Josh Smith @evaappliance

I changed both the thermal fuse and the dryer cycle thermostat. These are the last two things that I haven't changed.

So at this point, I changed almost everything related to the heating: Heating element, hi-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off fuse, dryer timer, thermal fuse, and the dryer cycle thermostat. The cost of all genuine parts cost over half of a new dryer's price, I guess.   

It still does not heat—the dryer runs but no heat at all!

I checked the voltage at the back of the dryer as suggested, with a 240 V. No voltage problem.

What else do I need to look into? It's killing me here. I am desperate to get this darn dryer to work. Any more suggestions?

[evaappliance]

9 minutes ago, WittyApp said:

checked the voltage at the back of the dryer

With it running?

[WittyApp]

@evaappliance Yes, I checked the voltage of the dryer while it was running. I got 248 V.  

[evaappliance]

On 3/2/2021 at 11:10 PM, Josh Smith said:

Did you check the centrifugal switch on the motor? Not super common but the do fail sometimes.

This is all that is left, assuming you didn’t get any bad new parts.  This is a weird one 

[WittyApp]

3 hours ago, evaappliance said:

This is all that is left, assuming you didn’t get any bad new parts.  This is a weird one 

Thank you. I'll check it. I got nothing to lose!  I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[ServiceTech_Daniel]

You said you checked the voltage coming in, Did you check just for 240 going from L1 to L2 or did you check L1 to Neutral (120 volts) and L2 to neutral (120 volts) make sure the dryer is running.  Make sure to use a loading meter (a wiggy) or the LowZ function on your meter if you have it . Ghost voltage will fool you every time ,Just because it reads 240 volts doesn’t mean that the voltage is Correct.  

Edited March 8, 2021 by ServiceTech_Daniel

[WittyApp]

6 hours ago, ServiceTech_Daniel said:

You said you checked the voltage coming in, Did you check just for 240 going from L1 to L2 or did you check L1 to Neutral (120 volts) and L2 to neutral (120 volts) make sure the dryer is running.  Make sure to use a loading meter (a wiggy) or the LowZ function on your meter if you have it . Ghost voltage will fool you every time ,Just because it reads 240 volts doesn’t mean that the voltage is Correct.  

I did check all of them whitle it's running. L1 to L2 read 240V. Lt to neutral 120V and L2 to neutral 120V. I don't have a meter with LowZ function though. 

[Vance R]

Not sure which class your taking, but since you have a meter and willling to take voltage reading while running. 

Put one meter lead on the L2 at terminal block. The other lead goes at the heater element labelled "a" with heat switch on, timer in timed dry and motor running.  If you get 0 vac just walk the circuit towards L1 one item at a time until you get 240 vac. The item between 0 vac and 240 vac is your issue.  If you get 240 vac just walk the circuit towards L2 until you get 0 vac. Again item inbetween 240 vac and 0 vac is your issue

 

[ServiceTech_Daniel]

9 hours ago, WittyApp said:

I did check all of them whitle it's running. L1 to L2 read 240V. Lt to neutral 120V and L2 to neutral 120V. I don't have a meter with LowZ function though. 

Have you tried half splitting the circuit ? Go to the heating element . Disconnect one of the terminals and anchor it out of the way so it doesn't touch anything. Then test for 120 volts with respect to neutral on both wires. One wire goes to the motor circuit , the other wire goes to the timer/thermostat side of the circuit . If you have no voltage on the motor side of the circuit then your problem lies there. The same for the thermostat side . 

Edited March 9, 2021 by ServiceTech_Daniel

[WittyApp]

17 hours ago, ServiceTech_Daniel said:

You said you checked the voltage coming in, Did you check just for 240 going from L1 to L2 or did you check L1 to Neutral (120 volts) and L2 to neutral (120 volts) make sure the dryer is running.  Make sure to use a loading meter (a wiggy) or the LowZ function on your meter if you have it . Ghost voltage will fool you every time ,Just because it reads 240 volts doesn’t mean that the voltage is Correct.  

@Vance R  @ServiceTech_Daniel Thank you! Will try as you guys suggested. I'll let you know how it goes. 

 

 

[WittyApp]

22 hours ago, Vance R said:

Not sure which class your taking, but since you have a meter and willling to take voltage reading while running. 

Put one meter lead on the L2 at terminal block. The other lead goes at the heater element labelled "a" with heat switch on, timer in timed dry and motor running.  If you get 0 vac just walk the circuit towards L1 one item at a time until you get 240 vac. The item between 0 vac and 240 vac is your issue.  If you get 240 vac just walk the circuit towards L2 until you get 0 vac. Again item inbetween 240 vac and 0 vac is your issue

 

I tested the L1 to the "a" on the heater element and got 240 V. But when I tested the L2 to the "b" on the heater element, I got 0 V. 

So the problem must be the motor that has no continuity to the heater element. 

Should I change the motor? 

[Vance R]

27 minutes ago, WittyApp said:

Should I change the motor? 

Will start off with you didn't follow instructions, but we can work around that issue. No, at the moment there are other problems.

 

28 minutes ago, WittyApp said:

I tested the L1 to the "a" on the heater element and got 240 V.

If you think about L1 to point "a" is just basic a continuous path there should be no voltage drop. In a working circuit L1 to "a" and "b" to L2 should both be 0 vac as the voltage drop of 240 vac would be across the heating element.  Something in the L1 to "a" circuit is still open. Presuming you had the motor running! Please re-read my previous post and try again.

[WittyApp]

On 3/9/2021 at 9:30 PM, WittyApp said:

Put one meter lead on the L2 at terminal block. The other lead goes at the heater element labelled "a" with heat switch on, timer in timed dry and motor running.  If you get 0 vac just walk the circuit towards L1 one item at a time until you get 240 vac.

I checked with meter on L2 to the "a" heater element, hi-limit thermostat, operating thermostat, and thermal cutoff, I got 0 vac on all of them. From your diagram, I don't know where the heat switch is on the dryer. So I couldn't check the heat switch. I attached the diagrams of MEDX650DW1 for your reference. Thank you very much.

[Vance R]

Look at he parts list switch number 4 has a air fluff setting. Did you check for voltage at terminal A ( red wire) on the timer?

[WittyApp]

On 3/11/2021 at 8:09 PM, Vance R said:

Look at he parts list switch number 4 has a air fluff setting. Did you check for voltage at terminal A ( red wire) on the timer?

@Vance R I want to thank you for pointing the right direction for me. It was the heat switch! After doing what you suggested, I found out the I got 0 vac and 240 vac on each end of the heat switch. I bought a new part and changed it. It is spinning and heating now! My wife is so glad that she could dry her cloth now. Again thank you to you and everyone who tried to help me on this forum. Thank you!!!

[evaappliance]

glad you found the problem !   that one was unusual . bet  i haven't had  but 3 or 4 of those switches to be bad in 29 years of repair work  

Edited March 20, 2021 by evaappliance

[WittyApp]

10 hours ago, evaappliance said:

glad you found the problem !   that one was unusual . bet  i haven't had  but 3 or 4 of those switches to be bad in 29 years of repair work  

I didn't see anyone talking about the heat switch at all. If it's not what Vance suggested, I wouldn't be able to find out. It took me over a month to fix this dryer!