Service Manual or tech sheets for GE Dryer

[Hedgemo60]

Manufacturer: GE

Type of Appliance: DRYER

Model Number: DBLR333EEWW

Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): YES

Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): YES

Looking for tech data and/or electrical schematic. Thanks.

[Captain Dunsel]

Model number is missing a digit.Uploading what I think you are looking for.Waiting on approval:

[Son of Samurai]

Thanks, Captain!

 

[Hedgemo60]

@Captain Dunsel. Thanks for your response. You've always been great at getting schematics for me an I'm sure many others. I actually found the number DBLR333E in an obscure place stamped on a back panel and the unit is white and electrically heated. Then at Repair Clinic it gave me 4 options for a an electric dryer, DBLR333ET0AA, DBLR333ET0WW, DBLR333ET1AA, and DBLR333ET1WW, but it didn't mention color. I know color doesn't matter. Then I went to the Ge appliances website and it gave me the options of  DBLR333EEWW and  DBLR333EGWW for white electric dryers.  So I picked one. I know the last digits probably don 't mean much as far as the operation and physical components other than gas or electric. So I do appreciate what ever you can get me.

 

[Hedgemo60]

@Captain Dunsel Yeah the Repair Clinic site also mentioned DBLR333EE1CC and DBLR333EE1WW. Thanks for the download to you and @Son of Samurai. It's weird that the GE site didn't put that 1 extra digit in there.

[Hedgemo60]

@Captain Dunsel or @Son of Samurai  I noticed on the schematic that the black wire coming out of the left side of the timer doesn't attach anywhere. Could you tell me where it goes? Thanks.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

One side of the timer motor connects to Neutral. So the other side must connect to L1 or else the timer motor won’t run. The fact that the L1 side of the timer motor is not shown on the timer chart means that L1 to the timer motor is unswitched.

Even though the draftsman dropped a line in the schematic, you can fill it in from understanding basic circuits and deducing what that load needs to function.  

[Hedgemo60]

@Son of Samurai I don't know what you mean by unstitched. I assume it means not drawn. You wouldn't want to look at the drawing and tell me where the line attaches would you. It looks like it goes up since the word Black is there next to where the line should be. And if it goes straight up, it looks like it goes to the C contact of the timer. What do you think? I'm very sorry to bother you about this.  I just want to be sure.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

21 minutes ago, Hedgemo60 said:

@Son of Samurai I don't know what you mean by unstitched.

That was me @Samurai Appliance Repair Man replying as you'll notice in the profile block with the post. 

"Unstitched" is iPhone autocorrect-speak for "unswitched." 

21 minutes ago, Hedgemo60 said:

And if it goes straight up, it looks like it goes to the C contact of the timer. What do you think?

That would switch L1 to the timer motor but it would still run. The timer chart shows the timer motor running a few seconds at the end of the cycle (T-X). This is probably to ensure the timer is reset and ready for the next cycle. 

I would connect it to C and then it would be "unstitched." 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

In fact, it's even easier. The picture of the timer on the tech sheet shows that my reasoning based on the schematic and timer chart was mostly correct: the timer motor connects to C and T. Since C and T are both switched contacts, looks like they're switching both sides of the power supply to the timer motor. 

[Hedgemo60]

@Samurai Appliance Repair Man Sorry about this. You actually did write unswitched but I for some oddball reason I saw unstitched. And thank you so much for clearing this up. This drawing really helps.  I think I can go and troubleshoot the problem now. 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Just now, Hedgemo60 said:

You actually did write unswitched but I for some oddball reason I saw unstitched.

You're not crazy-- "unstitched" was originally there as an annoying autocorrect. I went back and edited the post. 

1 minute ago, Hedgemo60 said:

I think I can go and troubleshoot the problem now. 

Go forth and conquer! 

[Hedgemo60]

While I have your attention, can I ask another question? I just found out that on this dryer, when I turn the timer to a certain position, the timer starts running automatically even though the heater and motor aren’t running, and the start button was never pushed. It will runout without anything else happening. But when I push the start button, then the heater and motors do start up. I didn’t think that the timer runs until you press the start button. Am I wrong here? Thanks.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

20 minutes ago, Hedgemo60 said:

While I have your attention, can I ask another question?

Good question but you should post it in the repair forum. We've already gone beyond what this forum is supposed to be for (manual requests). Start a new topic in the repair forum so that the discussion will be seen by other techs both now and in the future.