GE Hydrowave will not fill, many parts changed

[KerryElizabeth]

You

My washing machine, a GE hydrowave, will not fill.

I have replaced the motherboard, and the inlet valve. I've reset it. The motor invertor board flashes 1 second on and 1 second off for normal/stand by, and no issues are flagged during field service mode. Help!  

Could the magnetic lid switch be bad and not be flagged during the field service mode?

[sh2sh2]

If you set it to the spin cycle does it spin?

[WOOKIE]

Cut the wires to the magnetic switch and wire nut them together. 

[Scottekarate]

@KerryElizabeth If you had the model number we could look the schematic over. The magnetic switch is easily checked from the board on the motor. You say its not filling. Does it do anything when you hit start? Can you hear the water valve buzzing?

[16345Ed]

21 hours ago, WOOKIE said:

Cut the wires to the magnetic switch and wire nut them together. 

This is not recommended. Children have been injured by washers spinning with no lid lock. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

1 hour ago, 16345Ed said:

This is not recommended. Children have been injured by washers spinning with no lid lock. 

This ^ but also I'm pretty sure it will throw an error code if it doesn't see the lid open between cycles.

Bypassing lid switch OK for testing purposes only

[WOOKIE]

17 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

This is not recommended. Children have been injured by washers spinning with no lid lock. 

Come on guys . How often do you jumper a switch for testing ??? You would only cut the wire for the purpose of TESTING to see if it is a bad switch. If the switch was bad you would replace it. Magnetic switches are not the same as a regular switch. 

[16345Ed]

4 hours ago, WOOKIE said:

Come on guys . How often do you jumper a switch for testing ??? You would only cut the wire for the purpose of TESTING to see if it is a bad switch. If the switch was bad you would replace it. Magnetic switches are not the same as a regular switch. 

in my opinion, You need to be a bit more specific then in the future when suggesting this and state that it’s only for testing and not a permanent solution. 
 

 

[WOOKIE]

Will do, I would think a trained tech would already know not to leave the switch disconnected after testing. But,  we  may be  dealing with a DIY'er in this case.  But, apparently knowledgeable enough to suspect the magnetic switch ? If we are talking about the same washer, the two white wires are right in front of you when you remove the front panel.  It is alot easer to test at that point s than to access  the connections at the inverter board located not top of the motor while laying on your back. This would also be a safer place to test than under the washer for a untrained individual , Agreed? Sorry I hope I did not offend anyone and, thank you for your opinion . 

[Scottekarate]

@WOOKIE I just hate messing with the console on those. I always drop at least one screw. For me it's easier to pop the front off and disconnect the harness and check there. Everybody does things different. No bigs.

[WOOKIE]

4 minutes ago, Scottekarate said:

@WOOKIE I just hate messing with the console on those. I always drop at least one screw. For me it's easier to pop the front off and disconnect the harness and check there. Everybody does things different. No bigs.

Just one! I alway's seem to have to sacrifice one or two to the screw god.  I agree , you pop the panel off  on those and it's right there. Not to much to them compared to other unit's  where it is easier to check from the control panel using EEP'S.

[Ashton]

Are you getting water through the water lines when you disconnect them from the washer? I’ve been fooled more than once by a defective “flood” water line.