Help please. High heat ceramic nut isn't tightening on broiler element fix.

[Mgdpublic]

I'm replacing a broiler element and one sides wire nut tightened fine but the other is not.  I've tried three different nuts.  It's about the same half inch of exposed wire as the side I did get tight, though maybe a bit less. I'm  afraid I've fatigued the metal (at least the stranded) too much to keep fiddling with it (or loosen connections at either end).   I didn't realize I wasn't supposed to twist the wires first. I've got maybe three twists on it.   I don't have enough wire to cut and try again. Any recommendations?  Is my metal fatigue concern unwarranted? Thanks in advance.

[johntech]

Model number and part number would help us figure out what exactly you are trying to do. Pictures would also be nice. Every oven broil element I can think of either uses spade connectors or bolts and/or nuts to connect the wires. If you are just trying to use a wire nut to connect 2 wires together and one is not holding a tight connection you may be using wire nuts that are too large for the gauges of wires you are connecting. 

[johntech]

If the metal is over fatigued it will break easily. If the wire is not damaged then my only concern is a tight connection that does not come loose. I test by pulling on the wires 1 at a time while holding the wire nut to insure they do not pull out.

Edited September 4, 2021 by johntech

[Mgdpublic]

I bought the oem part, but here is essentially the same part and it was recommended from multiple sources to splice it in to existing wires rather than pull our oven and remove back.  

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJH0KJ2?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_1843280_597603610

 

I bought the wire nuts specifically paired with this part at a good repair supplier and one fits fine.  I thought I left more than enough room to splice but it's hard to bend the wire in the tight space to get the wires parallel so there is a bit of force attempting to separate them.  I was thinking to unwind and try again though I'm a bit concerned about the stranded breaking.  Would I be able to use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-High-Temperature-Flue-15-Foot/dp/B00004Z4DS

to add a little more width to the wires so the nut can bite better?  Thanks.

 

 

 

 

[Mgdpublic]

I should add that I can absolutely get the wires that would go in the nut parallel, I just cant get the multiple twists on the insulated wire you often see. 

[WOOKIE]

try using a bell crimp connector.  You can find them on amazon or at the parts house. 

[Gnominator77]

I will usually take the two wires to be spliced and twist a few times and just nip off a little of the very end with side cutters. Just give yourself ample wire to work with. 

[Terry Carmen]

8 hours ago, Mgdpublic said:

to add a little more width to the wires so the nut can bite better?  Thanks.

If the wire nuts are too big, you need smaller wire nuts.

The tape is for metal ductwork and I'm not even sure the adhesive is electrically conductive, but it's definitely not meant for this.

[Mgdpublic]

21 hours ago, WOOKIE said:

try using a bell crimp connector.  You can find them on amazon or at the parts house. 

Are you referring to these?  https://www.amazon.com/CONNECTIVITY-485043-1-TERMINAL-BARREL-SPLICE/dp/B00MMYFX5O

I looked at a video on how you do it but is it possible to crimp the wires side by side?  And is it really necessary to buy the crimp tool or can I just twist wires and clamp together with a pliers (just trying to save the 35 bucks on crimping tool. Lastly, is it safe to keep the connection uninsulated?  Given the high heat application I'm guessing I cant use shrink wrap.  Thanks again!  You're all very helpful.

[WOOKIE]

41 minutes ago, Mgdpublic said:

Are you referring to these?

No, Try this.