Samsung Dryer (model DV5451AEW) not heating

[CabeWA]

Hello, I’ve been having some trouble with my Samsung dryer. In the past week it has stopped heating while running. No code show up on the display. It had this same problem due to overheating and blowing the thermal cutoff due to a clogged vent. We had the dryer fixed (the repairman also replaced the heater and thermostat)c and we had the vents cleaned. 
 

I tested the heater, thermostat and thermal fuse with a multimeter on the continuity setting and the all seem to be functioning correctly. I also tested the heater relay and it seems to be working as well. I replaced the thermal fuse since it was cheap. I’m not sure what the next step could be. 

[LouisM]

With a multimeter, verify if you have 120 VAC on each side of the heating element.

[CabeWA]

Thanks for the info. I’ll give that a shot. 

[CabeWA]

Quick question, how do I do that without disassembling the dryer? And is it possible for it to have continuity yet still be broken?

2 hours ago, LouisM said:

With a multimeter, verify if you have 120 VAC on each side of the heating element.

 

[THRAMICH]

The element in an electric dryer operates on 240 volts AC (alternating current), supplied as L1 and L2. L1 power (120 volts AC) is supplied from the control board heater relay through the thermostats and thermal fuse, and L2 is supplied through the centrifugal switch in the motor. Without L1 and L2 (240 volts AC) present, the dryer will not properly heat. 

First of all, you need to verify that the circuit breaker has not tripped and there is at least 230 volts AC at the power block in the rear of the dryer. Anything less, you have a power supply issue.

Second, you need to verify that there is continuity across BOTH thermostats and the thermal fuse. Measure the resistance across the heating element, it should be less than 50 Ohms. Also test from each terminal of the heating element to the metal chassis to check for grounding.

If all that checks out, test for power at the heating element. Let us know what you find and we will help you along.

[CabeWA]

On 11/18/2021 at 8:51 AM, THRAMICH said:

The element in an electric dryer operates on 240 volts AC (alternating current), supplied as L1 and L2. L1 power (120 volts AC) is supplied from the control board heater relay through the thermostats and thermal fuse, and L2 is supplied through the centrifugal switch in the motor. Without L1 and L2 (240 volts AC) present, the dryer will not properly heat. 

First of all, you need to verify that the circuit breaker has not tripped and there is at least 230 volts AC at the power block in the rear of the dryer. Anything less, you have a power supply issue.

Second, you need to verify that there is continuity across BOTH thermostats and the thermal fuse. Measure the resistance across the heating element, it should be less than 50 Ohms. Also test from each terminal of the heating element to the metal chassis to check for grounding.

If all that checks out, test for power at the heating element. Let us know what you find and we will help you along.

So I can verify I get 240 volts to the back of the dryer. I’ve also verified that I get less than 50 ohms across the heating element (it shows around 12). And I turned the dryer on and I get 120 volts from both leads going to the heating element (there’s no continuity between the leads on the heating element and the metal chassis, so I don’t believe it’s grounding). I turned on the dryer with the front off and there’s no heat coming off the heating element. Is it possible the heating element is bad, yet can still show continuity?

[sh2sh2]

When checking for 120 at heating element you must have one wire disconnect, otherwise you are just reading the same power, disconnect one wire and make sure it's not touching anything, start the dryer and check for power at both the disconnect wire and the connected wire

[THRAMICH]

If you get 120 volts from both leads going to the heating element, then that indicates that one leg of power is not reaching the element. Without both legs, the power simply flows through the element like a wire and comes out the other side. 

On 11/21/2021 at 5:13 AM, sh2sh2 said:

...disconnect one wire and make sure it's not touching anything, start the dryer and check for power at both the disconnect wire and the connected wire

This is correct, and will tell you which leg of power is missing. From there, follow the wire without voltage back to its source to find where the power is dropping out. When checking for voltage on each wire, use neutral for your other test lead.

Edited November 22, 2021 by THRAMICH

[CabeWA]

3 hours ago, THRAMICH said:

If you get 120 volts from both leads going to the heating element, then that indicates that one leg of power is not reaching the element. Without both legs, the power simply flows through the element like a wire and comes out the other side. 

This is correct, and will tell you which leg of power is missing. From there, follow the wire without voltage back to its source to find where the power is dropping out. When checking for voltage on each wire, use neutral for your other test lead.

I did that, and both legs are providing 120 volts. Does that mean it’s the heater? I bought a replacement and am about instal it anyway. 

[CabeWA]

Replaced the heating element, thermistor, and thermal fuse all at once and it’s heating again!

[Quick]

45 minutes ago, CabeWA said:

Replaced the heating element, thermistor, and thermal fuse all at once and it’s heating again!

And alls well that ends well.

 

[vallen513]

On 11/22/2021 at 9:39 PM, CabeWA said:

Replaced the heating element, thermistor, and thermal fuse all at once and it’s heating again!

Anytime a thermal fuse goes bad on a samsumg, I always replace the thermistor with it. The thermistors get out of range frequently.