GE GTS18FCSARWW Top Freezer Refrigerator - Food freezing throughout the fridge

[Mumford67]

We have an inherited GE GTS18FCSARWW top freezer model refrigerator.  The freezer compartment with ice maker both work fine but we are having consistent issues with food freezing in the refrigerator.  Not only in the back area of the top shelf, but anywhere from the middle to the back of the fridge, from the top shelf all the way down to the vegetable and fruit crisper trays.  I'd say we have about 6 inches from front to the middle, as well as the door shelves, where food is relatively safe.  But otherwise its a crap shoot.  Anything that is longer than 6 inches (i.e. celery, egg cartons) and runs front to back, tends to be partially frozen.

We have replaced the temperature control thermostat, as well as have set the temperature down to 1 on the control dial and the problem persists.  Any thoughts as to what else may be causing so large an area of the fridge to become a freezing zone?  We love our salads but not when they are icicles.

As always, any help is appreciated!

[EngineeredAppliance]

I would check to make sure you return air channel is clear. You need to have air coming in from the freezer to the fresh food section. As well as a passage way for air to leave from fresh food section to the freezer. Also make sure the damper is operational. No broken linkage. This would be in the freezer section. It will allow more or less cold air to pass in the fresh food section. Also consult your use and care manual. Many of them will tell consumers not to place items in that area as freezing can be a known issue. Hope this helps. 

[Mumford67]

1 hour ago, EngineeredAppliance said:

I would check to make sure you return air channel is clear. You need to have air coming in from the freezer to the fresh food section. As well as a passage way for air to leave from fresh food section to the freezer. Also make sure the damper is operational. No broken linkage. This would be in the freezer section. It will allow more or less cold air to pass in the fresh food section. Also consult your use and care manual. Many of them will tell consumers not to place items in that area as freezing can be a known issue. Hope this helps. 

Where would I find the damper in the freezer?  Every google search for damper repair/checking seems to take me to French door style fridges instead of top freezer models?  Also not seeing any parts related to a damper for this model on parts sites.

[EngineeredAppliance]

I would check to make sure you return air channel is clear. You need to have air coming in from the freezer to the fresh food section. As well as a passage way for air to leave from fresh food section to the freezer. Also make sure the damper is operational. No broken linkage. This would be in the freezer section. It will allow more or less cold air to pass in the fresh food section. Also consult your use and care manual. Many of them will tell consumers not to place items in that area as freezing can be a known issue. Hope this helps. 

[EngineeredAppliance]

304,303,307,305 all are apart of your refrigerator air flow system minus the fan. You need to check these parts to make sure they are free of ice or any obstructions. 305 is usually a piece that controls how much freezer air moves into the fresh food section. If it’s - flat that adds minimum freezer air. If it’s l then it adds maximum air. Or like this / then partial air. That is your damper.

[Bluebayou]

he beat me to it.  EngineeredAppliance described the damper perfectly in that last post.  I used to see a lot of these with ice buildup that dripped from the freezer evaporator and into the fresh food area.  Try the damper closed and that the fresh food compartment is being maintained less than 37 degrees.  Ice in the damper can stick it open, but not obstruct air flow too.  

The fresh food compartment (on this fridge) is cooled by the freezer air coming through the damper.

 

[Mumford67]

2 hours ago, EngineeredAppliance said:

304,303,307,305 all are apart of your refrigerator air flow system minus the fan. You need to check these parts to make sure they are free of ice or any obstructions. 305 is usually a piece that controls how much freezer air moves into the fresh food section. If it’s - flat that adds minimum freezer air. If it’s l then it adds maximum air. Or like this / then partial air. That is your damper.

Okay, I checked all four parts and there is no obstruction on or around them.

Didn't realize 305 is a manual damper and not an automatic damper.  Not sure what you mean by "broken linkage" since it   Should I set it to B to reduce the airflow?

Also, is it normal for 307 to look burnt/melted like it does below? 

Going to reassemble things for now, but I can adjust 305 tomorrow if necessary.

[Mumford67]

BTW, I went ahead and adjusted the damper to setting B before reassembling in case that might help control how much cold air is getting into the lower compartment.  I will keep an eye on the fridge thermometer and adjust accordingly if needed.

[EngineeredAppliance]

@Mumford67

There shouldn't be any burnt parts in the cabinet. This may have occurred if the unit was packed really tight and that piece got too closed to the defrost heater. (At least its replaceable as long as its for sale.) As for how to set the damper this may take some tinkering as this is more personal to YOU and your family. (Finding that sweet spot)  Normally on these complaints I close it off completely. As you said just monitor it. 

[16345Ed]

Does it run a lot? Could also be bad thermostat. If all air passages are clear. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

19 hours ago, Mumford67 said:

We have replaced the temperature control thermostat, as well as have set the temperature down to 1 on the control dial

@16345Ed It seems they have already replaced the t-stat and set at lowest setting and still freezing in refrig section.

@Mumford67 pull the back panel of the freezer out so you can get an eye on the complete evaporator and see what the frost pattern looks like on it.

It should have a nice even coat of very thin white frost from top to bottom.

I've seen before where top freezer models are low on Freon(R134a) still freezing in the freezer but not getting down to the 0 - 5 degree temp that you should have in a freezer, (it only needs to be 32 degrees to freeze things but will not keep for long periods of time if not down to the zero zone). 

Being low on coolant the unit runs constantly trying to get the refrig section down to the correct temp so it will freeze things in the refrig but still not turn off correctly.  

The reason is because the t-stat sensor is actually looking for a temp lower then the 35-38 that would be optimum temp for the refrig, (the sensor is usually right near where the zero to -15 degree air will be coming out of the air diffuser so needs to see a temp much lower then what you are actually looking for before it will turn off).

Hopefully that makes sense to you - get the freezer panel off and take a picture of the evaporator and post it if you aren't sure.

[Mumford67]

Update:  So far things seems to be working well with the damper on the B setting and the fridge temp dial set at 5.  No ice or freezing and the fridge maintaining a temp of 35 degrees at the middle shelf. We also reorganized the fridge while at it, moving the top shelf up, moving dairy to the lower shelf, eggs to the middle, etc.  So fingers crossed.  Thank you for all of the advice so far.

Willie - Thank you for the additional information.  Will continue to keep an eye on the temperature as well as the items on the fridge throughout the week.  If anything changes, I will disassemble the freezer again and take off the back panel to get a shot of the evaporator.  Hesitant to do so in the immediate as it means removal of the ice maker and I'd rather not deal with the water line unless necessary.

[Mumford67]

Quick follow-up on this.  Over the week, things started to freeze in the fridge again.  Adjusted the damper to the A setting and set the temp down around 2 in the fridge a few days ago and it seems to be holding between 34 and 38 degrees.  Will continue to monitor the next few days

If I start to see freezing within the fridge again, I will start working with Willie's theory.  Will start by monitoring the freezer temps to see if they are hovering around 0-5.  If not,  I will disassemble the freezer to get a shot of the evaporator.  If that ends up not having a nice even coat of frost, how complicated is adding R134a or should I bring in a repairman to handle that?

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@Mumford67 If it's low on Freon(R134a) it's time to go shopping for a new one.

The cost to call a tech that is EPA certified to work with refrigerants and to find the leak and repair is going to be the cost of a new low line refrigerator.

Adding refrigerant isn't something a DIY usually does unless you have at least some rudimentary knowledge of sealed system work and/or have maybe worked on auto air conditioning systems before.

[Mumford67]

7 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

@Mumford67 If it's low on Freon(R134a) it's time to go shopping for a new one.

The cost to call a tech that is EPA certified to work with refrigerants and to find the leak and repair is going to be the cost of a new low line refrigerator.

Adding refrigerant isn't something a DIY usually does unless you have at least some rudimentary knowledge of sealed system work and/or have maybe worked on auto air conditioning systems before.

That's what I was afraid of.  Will keep my fingers crossed that the food doesn't freeze again, and if it does, I'll just plan on starting to budget for a replacement unit.

Thanks for the info.

[Brando]

On the cold control there is an adjustment. A tiny flat head screw to the right of the shaft for the knob. You’ll need a flashlight to see it.

Give this a 1/4 turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE. This will raise the cut out temp. I have to do it on these older units occasionally. If that’s not enough give it one more 1/4 turn.