GE Potscrubber GSD940-L-02 - still not getting water -

[appleimac]

Amateur DIY'ER here again - my dishwasher had a very small leak under it, so I lost my job last month, thought I had the time to fix it. May not have been cleaning quite as well as it used too. Replaced the tiny water pump seal, rinse aid dispenser (lot of this behind inner plastic door panel) water inlet valve - tested to make sure DW gets water from its connection, water flows very well to that. If I had accidentally reversed the wires on the water inlet switch, what would happen?  Should I try reversing these wires or am I likely to cause damage?  From what I am reading, the next step is to test the float switch - it doesn't appear jammed up - and after that the timer?  I read the timer is out of my league to repair - and the motor and pump assembly would not cause it to not fill with water, correct?  B-T-W the old pump inlet valve didn't look that bad, but did have some corrosion and crap in it -

[clevsv]

I am a little confused as to what the unit is doing.

Answer one of these two question for me and I can try to help. 

1. What is the appliance doing that you think it should not?

2. What isn't the appliance doing that you think it should?

If you just need help with reassembly, try to be a little more clear.

[appleimac]

It is not letting water in - noticed the bottom rotating arm does not move either, I assume because it is not letting water in.  Motor sounds like it is running.  I was wondering if I simply got the wires reversed on the water inlet valve, and if I should try reversing them - I checked to make sure water would flow with the water tube open before I assembled dishwasher inlet valve - and water flow seemed strong as it should be. I understand the float valve will also cause the dishwasher not to fill?  Was going to check that for continuity, float appears to move up and down okay inside tub -

[clevsv]

Does this unit have just one pump motor for both drain and circulate? If so it could be stuck in flood mode, yes. That would cause the motor to run attempting to drain and nothing else to function.

Reversing wires on something that is only a switch with two terminals and no connections to anything else is ok. The switch is just a piece of wire when it is closed, it does not care which direction. If it's a relay or has other connections it could be very important that the correct wire is on the correct terminal.

Edited February 13, 2022 by clevsv

[appleimac]

So as I am reading this, I will try reversing the two wires on the water inlet valve - which is the last thing I replaced - I believe there is only one large motor in the middle of the unit, and the pump inlet seal I replaced was near this.You are saying the pump could be stuck in flood mode, or the float switch could be stuck in flood mode? 

 

[clevsv]

The two wires on the water inlet valve do not go to a switch, that's a solenoid valve. Those should not care which is which.

If this is accurate - the unit powers on but only the motor runs and it does not fill or do anything else - then yes that is a typical flood mode operation. This is cause by the float switch. It could be something physically under the float that you aren't seeing, it could be a failing microswitch. My guess would be you got something under that while attempting your repair.

Move the float assembly up and down, you should hear a light click of the switch actuating.

[appleimac]

And I should hear the click of the switch without the unit being plugged in, correct?

 

[clevsv]

Correct. Should get a nice clear click going up then another going down. If you have a test meter in one position the switch should read 0-1 ohms and in the other it should read infinite or OL.

[appleimac]

It clicks well going up and down - will try continuity -

 

[clevsv]

You also need to check that the float isn’t being held up in the tripped position under its own weight by something under it or a wire isn’t loose or knocked off a terminal etc. This is more likely than the switch failing randomly - you were just in there moving stuff around and the switch would have been working fine before. If it isn’t the float switch assembly in some form or fashion I would call a professional.

[appleimac]

It looks to me as if the float switch passes the continuity test - one switch position it has continuity, one position it doesn't - the continuity when activated does swing up and down a lot of my digital meter, but perhaps I am not holding it securely enough to the terminals - when switch is not activated meter shows 1 -

[appleimac]

So from what I am hearing from you, is that if this is not the problem - then likely timer mechanism, or motor - both are fairly expensive - think I will still fix it though-

[appleimac]

One other thought - I am thinking perhaps it may not have been getting enough water flow for a while - maybe that is why it wasn't cleaning quite as well - perhaps that was all the old water inlet valve since it did have some crud in it -

[Captain Dunsel]

Old dishwasher for sure. Here is how much water it is suppose to get: 

Check level allowing dishwasher to fill normally for first fill. Measure the water level by standing a rule on the pedestal in the tub bottom center, just in front of the spray arm hub. The water level should be 3/8” to 1" high. If the water level is to low, check for clogged screen in water valve, and check float switch.

[clevsv]

4 hours ago, appleimac said:

It looks to me as if the float switch passes the continuity test - one switch position it has continuity, one position it doesn't - the continuity when activated does swing up and down a lot of my digital meter, but perhaps I am not holding it securely enough to the terminals - when switch is not activated meter shows 1 -

Switch should be very clearly on/off. If it is reading 1 ohm and then some variating measurement, the switch is bad. If it is reading some variating resistance and infinite, the switch is bad. Make sure you get good contact with your leads. One way should be zero resistance, may measure up to ~1 ohm due to your test leads. Other way should be infinite resistance - on a digital meter this typically reads OL. These should not fluctuate once you get a good connection with your leads.

Edited February 14, 2022 by clevsv

[clevsv]

4 hours ago, appleimac said:

So from what I am hearing from you, is that if this is not the problem - then likely timer mechanism, or motor - both are fairly expensive - think I will still fix it though-

Not likely to be the motor. If the float switch is not the issue you will need someone capable of reading the schematic and diagnosing the circuit to be in front of the machine w/ schematic in hand, ie a professional.

[appleimac]

I ordered a new float switch, should arrive Wednesday- wires seemed secure, float seems unobstructed, I think the DW may not have been getting enough water before, so maybe this will put it back to normal. Have used DW cleaner in it every so often, and I have an electronic Clearwave water softener hooked up nearby - haven't seen a whole lot of crud in it -