Kenmore 106.58902800 Side-by-Side Refrigerator from 2008--Not Running

[MarkH]

When I went to pull a pizza out of the freezer for the Super Bowl this afternoon, I was surprised that it was not really frozen. That was my first clue that something was wrong with the refrigerator.

So far, I've checked and neither the evaporator fan nor the condenser fans are working although the lights are on. I unplugged the condenser fan and do not get a continuity reading although the fins are not really visible and so I am not even certain I have really made contacts to complete the circuit. Haven't been able to tear down to the evaporator fan yet. The compressor is cool to the touch.

Was able to find a parts list online, but not the Tech Sheet. Watched a youtube video that suggested the tech sheet would either be taped to the back of the refrigerator or available behind the front grille, but have not found it in either place. Wanted the Tech Sheet as the video suggested I needed to "Enter diagnostic test mode." and instructions to do so would be included on that document. According to the parts list, W10142176 is described as the "Service & Wiring Sheet", which I believe is the document I am looking for. Or maybe you can tell me if diagnostic test mode is even available on this model. The refrigerator in the video appeared to me to be even older than mine, which implies to me that it should be possible for my machine as well. Any help or direction in locating the Tech Sheet would be greatly appreciated. I believe diagnostic mode is my next step.

Any help or guidance greatly appreciated.

 

[MarkH]

Hi guys,

I've unscrewed the screws but can't get the tall evaporator cover to release to get access to the evaporator fan. Any advice to remove the cover?

I'm pretty sure neither of the fans are running. Kinda feel like the control board or thermistor are my likely problems, but the parts list, parts-list-W10182525-RevB.pdf, does not list a "thermistor". There is a thermostat listed on the "Control Parts" page. Is that the same as the thermistor?

I'm desperate to get this refrigerator back in business today.

[MarkH]

Just had an odd occurrence. After removing the shelf and basket slides, I tried to remove the evaporator cover but couldn't figure out how to get it around the light socket. So, I moved on to removing the control box to see if the Tech Sheet was inside. I removed the light bulb and just as I was beginning to remove the screw on the left end of the box, the refrigerator started up. I could hear the evaporator fan blowing. Since I had disconnected the wires from the condenser fan, I tried to reconnect that plug. The fan just began to spin up and then the refrigerator shut off again. Any insight greatly appreciated.

[Vance R]

Sure, item #9 in the parts list you have shown.

[MarkH]

Hi Vance,

Thanks for confirming that. Can you tell me how to lower/open the control box? I have removed the two screws from the backside and can rotate that edge down to some degree, but am afraid of snapping it or breaking something. Have been unable to find an example of how to do so on this model. The ones I've seen are much smaller in size whereas mine runs edge to edge along the top front of the refrigerator compartment. What is the proper technique to drop the cover without damaging it?

[Vance R]

1 hour ago, MarkH said:

What is the proper technique to drop the cover without damaging it?

item#25 is a snap on overlay, remove it and there are 2 more screws that hold the frame item#1 in place. Thin bladed putty knife will help remove the overlay.

Edited February 15, 2022 by Vance R
added last sentence.

[MarkH]

Hi Vance,

Thanks for the tip. I was able to lower the control box, but didn't find the expected Tech Sheet inside.

In the meantime, before your reply, I pulled the compressor start relay and discovered that the capacitor does not have continuity but the start relay does, even when the capacitor side contacts are jumpered to complete the circuit. 

I also pulled the compressor fan motor to bench test it and it works.

So, I need to replace the capacitor, but it looks like it could take me a couple of days (or longer) to get the part. Is there a way to temporarily bypass the capacitor to get the refrigerator working until the replacement part can be installed?

[16345Ed]

You likely need a thermostat as Vance pointed out. You don’t test capacitors for continuity. 
 

I’ve yet to find bad capacitor on a refrigerator. 

[MarkH]

Okay, I will revisit testing the capacitor and go on to test the thermostat. My time is short today. May take a while.

Had one more question, though: As I was removing the backside screws from the control box, the refrigerator randomly started up. I could definitely hear the evap fan in the freezer compartment running. When this occurred, the compressor fan had already been unplugged by me. I can't say for sure that the compressor was running, but probably not, as I thought reconnecting the compressor fan was necessary to confirm/verify that. The act of contacting the fan plug to its wires immediately stopped the evap fan and the "running" noises I was hearing. What should be my takeaway from that?

My first thought was that the machine was still largely operational, but completing the fan circuit brought it to a stop, so maybe there is an overload somewhere (which I thought I had validated when the capacitor didn't show continuity.) What am I missing here?

Thanks again for all of your help.

[16345Ed]

You’ll have tough time testing thermostat. Contacts inside fail. But when you jostle them or hit them they will magically work. Like when you were messing with the cover  

Did you notice any fine black dust in thermostat compartment?

[Vance R]

Just add a bit more info, the evap fan motor, cond fan motor and compressor are wired in parallel. If one is running they all should be running. 

[MarkH]

Hi guys,

Sorry, have been delayed due to a needed auto repair. I'm almost there but did some more searching based on the thermostat part number and found a video that was more germane to my model than the one talking up a "thermistor." Will hopefully be testing the thermostat later today. This video suggests bypassing the thermostat as a way to test it. What are the pros and cons of bypassing the thermostat, at least temporarily, to verify that the rest of the components work?

[MarkH]

Hi guys,

Sorry, have been delayed due to a needed auto repair. I'm almost there but did some more searching based on the thermostat part number and found a video that was more germane to my model than the one talking up a "thermistor." Will hopefully be testing the thermostat later today. This video suggests bypassing the thermostat as a way to test it. What are the pros and cons of bypassing the thermostat, at least temporarily, to verify that the rest of the components work?

[MarkH]

Okay, I left the refrigerator plugged in while accessing the control box because the videos I found show a dial knob whereas mine is a slider. Also, the video showed two screws on the underside to free up the thermostat whereas mine shows none. So, in examining from above, I pushed gently on the ground wire and the fridge sprung to life. I let it run and confirmed the evap fan motor was running. It also felt to the touch that the compressor was running but the cond fan motor was not. Does this fan run whenever the compressor runs or only as needed to move air? In other words, is this a definitive sign that the motor needs replaced? Since Vance pointed out that they are wired in parallel, is it true that they don't necessarily all have to be on at the same time or are they always on together?

Used the slider to turn it off and then jostled one of the contacts and got it to run again. Using the slider to make it run does not work once it has stopped. And I would say that yes, I am seeing some fine black dust on the inside below the thermostat.

Was interested it giving it a trial run to see if it cools down inside, but don't know if I should if the cond fan motor is bad. Also, don't have a lot of time to babysit it this afternoon. I'm off work tomorrow though. What do you recommend?

[MarkH]

Another thought, would dielectric grease improve the contacts in the thermostat while awaiting a replacement to arrive?

[16345Ed]

Condenser fan should be running when compressor runs. It cools compressor and condenser coils. If you run refrigerator without fan running it will overheat. 
 

 

[Vance R]

3 hours ago, MarkH said:

Another thought, would dielectric grease improve the contacts in the thermostat while awaiting a replacement to arrive?

Don't think grease is going to help mechanical wear. 

4 hours ago, MarkH said:

are they always on together?

This one since they are wired in parallel.

 

The work around is a small box fan to provide air movement until you can replace the condenser fan motor. 

[MarkH]

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to this. My brother brought me a mini fridge that has taken the urgency out of my repair, so I propped up a fan behind the refrigerator and:

1) Definite issue the the contacts in the thermostat as I can press on them to get the cooling cycle to run. The cycle has also run on its own since my last post, but not in every instance. Waiting on replacement thermostat.

2) Pretty sure the capillary tube is good as the machine cools. All operations seem good with the exception of #3 below.

3) Remaining stumbling block is the condenser fan motor. When I bench tested it, the fan blade was not attached, so I wondered if it was spinning as well as I assumed it was. I was able to independently jump the fan in place on the machine and it spins rapidly with no undue noises.

4) I thought maybe I had bent the contacts in the connector and that was the problem, but I have a 120V AC test light and a 2-wire outlet circuit tester, neither of which illuminate at the fan connector while the machine/compressor is running, so I believe I have a wiring issue. There are two wires, a white one that runs to a connector at the compressor and a red wire that goes to a large connector below the freezer compartment. Since the compressor runs and the machine cools, is it possible to conclude that one of these wires is the culprit? Is it possible to remove the molex connector from the wires (as opposed to cutting it off)?

5) I've never used a refrigerator thermometer. Can you recommend a good one?

Thanks again for all the help.

[MarkH]

I'm still monkeying with the condenser fan. I pulled it to see about changing out the connector and then on a lark I plugged it in again and actually got the fan running from the refrigerator wiring while applying pressure from my index finger to the red wire.

I shot video but it was too large to upload, so I captured a still to post. I'm guessing that the fault is with the red wire at the fan connector. Is it possible to "fix" the connector without buying a new harness? Any advice greatly appreciated.

[MarkH]

I meant to add that easing up on the pressure on the red  wire and the fan comes to a stop.

[MarkH]

Is there a way to source the connector that the red and white wires run into without paying $$$ for a whole harness when a simple connector is all that is needed?