Jump to content
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 18 January 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      2  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, January 18 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

Drum rotates but no heat - where to start diagnostics? Thermostats? Thanks

  • Replies 4
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • jmm

    1

  • DADoESTX

    1

  • 16345Ed

    1

  • cabland

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Thermostat would be where I would start.  I used a knock-off brand originally...lasted a week...before going with an OEM.  Ultimately, within a year, however I was replacing the heating element itself (corroded through in one spot) - no issues since.

Posted

Check first, of course, for a tripped breaker and proper voltage at the outlet.  Then the element thermal cutoff (fuse) on the heater box is the first suspicion.  It interrupts power to the element but the motor runs.  Then the high-limit thermostat on the heater box.  Check the element for continuity, and short-to-ground which is a common cause of blowing the fuse.  The fuse also serves as a fail-safe for the high-limit thermostat so they're usually replaced as a set, particularly if the element is not shorted.  The other thermal fuse on the blower housing will stop the motor from running.  It serves as a fail-safe for the operating thermostat on the blower housing.

Posted

The most likely cause will be blown thermal fuse. If so check ventilation for clogs. 
 

If not thermal fuse behind back panel then investigate your heater and cutoff. 

Posted

Start with voltage at the wall then work your way back to the heating circuit via the wiring diagram

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...