Kenmore Elite 795.74053.411 Not cooling

[Bando]

Hello! Trying to help a single grandma who lives out in the country with her fridge that is not cooling.  Full disclosure. I am not a tech but I am very handy.  A repair company from the big city wants $190 for a service call to diagnosis.  I took ohms reading on the linear compressor and got readings between two pins only bouncing from mid 6’s to 10. I woul say the average was between 8.5 & 9.5ohms.  Is the compressor still good with it bouncing around like that?  Is there anything else I can check to determine if fridge is worth repairing?  Any help is appreciated. If I can determine if it is reasonably at a price point to repair I would haul it into the city for her(no LG or Kenmore techs in her area) to get repaired or do it myself with some good council. 

[ServiceTech_Daniel]

More likely you have a faulty compressor. Being that it's a LG you may have a bad board. There is a voltage measurement you can do to see if it is the PCB or compressor 

power off

disconnect Con201

power on 

push the test1 button (little black button on the PCB)

Check Voltage about 200V past 30second after turn on on terminal 1 and 4 (capacitor and power) 

If you have 200 (or very close) the board is fine replace the compressor

if you don't have proper voltage replace the pcb . 

after 30 seconds the board will signal a error that the compressor isn't coming on. just ignore it. It's triggered because you have the CON201 unplugged. The service manual will explain the full test . if you have access to it . 

 

If you end up replacing the Compressor, you will need to update the control board with the software jig, or replaced the control board with a new one that is update along with the compressor. 

How old is the refrigerator? most LG's have a 10 year warrenty on Compressor replacement 

Daniel

 

Edited July 18, 2022 by ServiceTech_Daniel

[Bando]

Thx Daniel!  So the Ohm's readings are not what they should be on the compressor?   Should it be a stable reading?   Is their a video link for your suggestion?    I really appreciate the help

[EngineeredAppliance]

In this case your Ohm readings don't matter. (Some will contest this statement.) But from experience your 795. is an LG built unit. You are best following the voltage checks outline above in the previous post. This will rule out bad thermistors, and control logic. (Fans should be running as well.) You more than likely have an inefficient compressor due to non-condensable from a leak on the low side. Or inefficient due to damage reed valves. As far as your Ohm readings electrically their normally fine. 

Make the voltage checks to rule out your control logic. (Board and input sensors/thermistors). I've heard of bad capacitors on these but have yet to find one. Get an amp reading from the compressor. Also what is the temperature of the discharge line? The tubing running to the condenser. This will be enough to rule in favor of new compressor, or control board. If really low amp reading you may have a leak. (tried to condense a large process into something quick.)

[ServiceTech_Daniel]

On 7/18/2022 at 11:22 AM, Bando said:

Thx Daniel!  So the Ohm's readings are not what they should be on the compressor?   Should it be a stable reading?   Is their a video link for your suggestion?    I really appreciate the help

hey sorry , i never saw i got a notification, i wasn't ignoring you! as the poster above me said in this case being a lg i wouldn't worry to much about the ohms on the compressor. Keep us updated!