Kenmore 796 80021900 dryer has gremlins

[ihatethisdryer]

Tl;Dr heating element has power, everything tests right, no shorts, continuity of everything is good, diagnostics lead nowhere, no heat. Dryer sprawled in pieces across kitchen, trash bag of wet clothes nearby. Hair falling out.

 

Alright so I've got a dryer that won't heat, above model. Really hoping someone here can help me figure out why. Ive searched all overthe internet and found nothing useful.

I have 240v in. Both thermostats have continuity. Thermal fuse has continuity. Thermistor tests in ohm parameters at different temps. Heating element has continuity, is not shorted. No codes in diagnostic mode. moisture sensor within parameters. Continuity all tested with parts isolated.

Unit turns on, runs, everything works. Except heat. I have 120v to the element on the red wire coming from drum motor, centrifugal switch is operating correctly. Relays click over and I have 120v on both the wire for inside and outside elements when unit is running. Voltages tested with all wires removed as well. Element coils test as 120v to ground. That doesn't seem right to me but that's what it is.

Even took the red wire straight from the drum motor in case readings were faulty for the thermal fuse and thermostat in line. Nothing.

All resistances for the heating element are within parameters tested at the plugs per the diagnostic manual. I've swapped the connectors on the relays and that doesn't change anything.

I really have no clue what the hell is going on with this thing. I just want to be able to dry my clothes man.

I would think the element is bad but I took it completely apart and examined it, no bad insulators, no broken wires, no shorting, as stated continuity is good. It has 120v to the requisite terminals and yet, no good glowing hotness.

Stopped just short of wiring it directly into a 120 plug to see if that makes it do anything.

Out of ideas and the only anomaly is that I have 120v reading from yellow wire on black relay tab to neutral on pcb while pushing start. Per diagnostic manual that's a pcb replacement, but that's fucking dumb because of course you're going to have 120v between hot and neutral right? Of course im going off ehat i know woring houses. Gotta be a misprint, it's the only step with the yes and no the other way around on the diagnostic flow chart. Plus good luck finding this pcb apparently.

I've got this stupid thing in about 20 different pieces on my kitchen floor. Someone please have an answer or some appliance magic that I obviously don't know.

[ihatethisdryer]

"Of course im going off ehat i know woring houses"

supposed to be "of course im going off what i know wiring houses"

[Vance R]

Lets start simple. At the outlet need to know following voltages - L1 to neutral,  L2 to neutral, L1 to  ground, L2 to ground, L1 to L2. This is for a 4 prong outlet. If it is a 3 prong outlet leave out the ground measurements.