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Posted

Dishwasher was running a cycle and quit, now no power to machine, checked breaker and power source

and those are good.  Pressing the start stop button yields no lights on door.

Smelled something that was like plastic getting hot.  Any tips on where to start, it had completed

the cycle at least drain wise there is no water inside.

Last time we had issues the base pan had water and the limit switch had turned it off.

It's run for a while since that problem, at least a year, which I think was due to the door being opened mid cycle.

 

 

 

Posted

Sorry, typo the model  it's SHX33A05UC/30  

Posted (edited)

Remove power to the dishwasher first. Start with the junction box just behind the toe plate. Inspect for burnt wire nuts.

Edited by Vance R
Grammer
Posted

OK the black wire cap melted, it did pop the circuit breaker, I can fix the connections and clean up the wires, however the big question is ,  why did it happen, what caused the wires to overheat to that extent, problems with pump or heating element.

Don't want to burn the house down reconnecting it if it's just going to continue to happen

 

Posted
10 minutes ago, HRK said:

why did it happen, what caused the wires to overheat to that extent, problems with pump or heating element.

The heat is generated by a loose connection.  Cut back to good copper, then make sure "ALL" the wire nuts are properly tighten. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I can do that, been reading about this happening quite a bit, interesting that it was reinstalled over a year ago, new center Island and it's been that way for a year

Posted

The damage happens slowly. Should be an easy fix.

Posted

I wish,  more damage than meets the eye, the heat from the black wire also damaged the side of the white wire), it's now hard and slightly singed, my concern is that it's no longer properly insulated (wires from DW side) you can see the burnt side of the white wire coming from the DW in the right edge of the photo above (red Arrow).

The black wire is bad significantly more so (yellow arrow) I could cut it back but then would have one and a half inches of good wire.

I've removed the unit in order to provide better access, and to not have to lay on the floor, plus access to that rea even after removing the whole electrical box on the DW is tight.

In order to repair the harness on the DW for that section needs to be replaced, I can't pull enough of the white and black wires through to get a clean wire on each, there just isn't enough wire.

Is it possible that the wire harness for this section can be replaced.

 

 

wire box.jpg

Posted

Can't remember the details how the harness is routed.  May want to look at the bundle to see if there is zip tie holding the bundle together. Remove the tie to get some more slack if possible.  If not, you'll have to splice the harness. 

Posted

That's the plan, have found a schematic online but it's just parts, not wiring, so far only complete harnesses for the unit

This evening I'll get it up on a table and on it's back to check it out

 

Posted

Well it's installed and running that did the trick, did have to move the harness around to get enough wire and made sure that the wire nuts were the correct size and super tight this time, we  don't want anymore problems like that, thanks for the help.

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