Think I need unknown part?

[WillT]

We have a several years-old Kenmore Elite small refrigerator used just for overflow from our kitchen unit.  Shown below, no freezer and no model number anywhere I can find.  The switch, thermostat(?), shown in the 2nd photo is not working correctly.  If I turn up the know to a high setting, it clicks and comes on but it will not shut off.  Runs the temp down to about 5 or 10 degrees.  If I turn the dial down just a hair, it switches off but will not come back on on its own.  The temp then rises to about ambient temps in the room.  So, I think the problem must be the switch/thermostat shown below but I don't know what part to order.  Maybe any generic would work as long as the connections were the same?  Any help to direct me to what to purchase would be appreciated.  Thanks!

 

[WillT]

Could not see how to edit/add on to the first post so I will add this here.  

I am not sure what the white wire shown in this photo is going to but maybe a temp sensor or something is hidden behind the back panel where the wire is going?  Maybe the problem is with whatever that might be and not the knob/switch I have hanging at the top right?  I don't know enough to have a clue to what I need to replace, but can probably do it just fine once I know what to purchase and swap out.  Thanks again.

[WillT]

I got it taken apart and at least there are some numbers on the control itself even if the frig does not have a model number on it.  TZ112 DTB-U102.  Sear part 302899 but out of stock.  I also find a Sanyo part 8334233950700 that appears to match it and that is available.   Says it fits the Kenmore Elite Model# 564.95499400 so that must be what we have.  

[Vance R]

Believe the model number is on the back

[WillT]

I looked all over the frig. There is a number on the compressor but it does not seem to translate to the frig, only the compressor.  I took a chance and ordered what should be the correct thermostat.  Fingers crossed.

[voyile3]

As for the white wire in the photo you shared, it's possible that it's connected to a temperature sensor or some other component that is not easily visible. However, since you have identified the control unit as the problem, it's best to focus on replacing that part first and see if it resolves the issue.

[WillT]

Thanks.  Yes the temp sensor was on the end of that white wire.  It was screwed to the back panel with the sensor squeezed tightly behind between the panel and the wall of the frig.  I did find what I believe is the correct control unit and am waiting its arrival.  I will report whether it fixes the issue but I can't imagine what else it could be. 

[WillT]

I installed the replacement control unit.  Although it works better than the old one that did not work at all, it is still not perfect.  After experimenting I find that setting the dial to "4", (so close to max), give the best result.  But the temperature on the top shelf is around 4o+ degrees and the temperature on the bottom shelf is around 28 or 30 degrees.  I suppose I could put in a battery-operated RV frig fan to circulate the air and even things out.  But it did not used to be this way.  Although the control unit was obviously bad, maybe there is also something else going on?

[Terry Carmen]

Because the temperature in the unit is dependent on the temp at the place on the evaporator where the thermostat capillary tube is mounted, if there's any sort of sealed system problem, it's not going to behave correctly.

Same thing if it's not exactly the right thermostat (right part number from the OEM). A lot of the Amazon thermostats aren't even close to what they say they are.

 

[WillT]

On 4/25/2023 at 7:44 AM, Terry Carmen said:

Because the temperature in the unit is dependent on the temp at the place on the evaporator where the thermostat capillary tube is mounted, if there's any sort of sealed system problem, it's not going to behave correctly.

Are you referring to the end of the copper wire?  I tried to put it back exactly where it was.  It was behind the "shield" or plate thing on the back wall of the frig.  It was actually touching the back wall.

And by sealed system problem do you mean like the door seals?  Or something else?  

It seems to be working sort of.  It is just that the top of the box is about 10 or 12 degrees above the bottom.  It is almost like there might be a fan in there somewhere to circulate the air that is not working?  Before I replaced the control unit, it was either on all the time or off all the time depending on a hairs breath turn of the dial.  Now at least that is fixed, it is just that the temps vary greatly top to bottom. We only use this unit for overflow and storage so for now I am putting things like onions, etc. on the top shelf that don't really have to be below 40 degrees.  And then the lower shelves are for things that can take the close to freezing temps.  The produce drawer is fine.  Temp in that ranges 34 to 38 degrees.

[Terry Carmen]

59 minutes ago, WillT said:

Are you referring to the end of the copper wire?  I tried to put it back exactly where it was.  It was behind the "shield" or plate thing on the back wall of the frig.  It was actually touching the back wall.

And by sealed system problem do you mean like the door seals?  Or something else?  

It seems to be working sort of.  It is just that the top of the box is about 10 or 12 degrees above the bottom.  It is almost like there might be a fan in there somewhere to circulate the air that is not working?  Before I replaced the control unit, it was either on all the time or off all the time depending on a hairs breath turn of the dial.  Now at least that is fixed, it is just that the temps vary greatly top to bottom. We only use this unit for overflow and storage so for now I am putting things like onions, etc. on the top shelf that don't really have to be below 40 degrees.  And then the lower shelves are for things that can take the close to freezing temps.  The produce drawer is fine.  Temp in that ranges 34 to 38 degrees.

That might be completely normal or not. I really don't know for that machine.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

There isn't a fan in these small dorm size units - this being only a refrigerator, cold will drop so it will be slightly colder at the bottom then the top.

The cap tube that has the white plastic cover on it should be attached to the cold plate/evaporator, not just hanging down behind it.  They usually have an approximately 1/8" thick metal plate with a screw/bolt in the middle that clamps the tube against the cold plate/evaporator.

[WillT]

On 4/27/2023 at 5:44 AM, Budget Appliance Repair said:

The cap tube that has the white plastic cover on it should be attached to the cold plate/evaporator, not just hanging down behind it.  They usually have an approximately 1/8" thick metal plate with a screw/bolt in the middle that clamps the tube against the cold plate/evaporator.

This is how it is attached.  It sticks out a little and the original was bent a bit so it was touching the back wall behind the cold plate/evaporator.  Is this how it should be?  Or touching the cold plate?  Or bent so that it is between the cold plate and the back wall, but not touching either?  Thanks!

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The cap tube should be against the cold plated clamped to it with the thermal mass - doesn't really matter if the tip is out towards the back plastic liner or not but should basically be flat against the cold plate.