Whirlpool electric dryer mode WED7000dw1 will not start

[Jtrouble]

The unit has power. Lights on in unit and on the control panel. You can choose the cycle and adjust the time but once you hit the start button, it just clicks and nothing else.

[MrApplianceMatt]

You're going to want to remove the back cover, after unplugging the machine of course, and you'll be looking just above and to the left of the exhaust for a white stick with 2 light blue wires. It's next to a white temperature sensor, red wires I believe, The white stick is what I'm interested in. That's the thermal fuse and it is directly in line with the motor.  Unplug one of the blue wires and use a multimeter with a continuity setting to check across the terminals for continuity. If it's open as I suspect it is, replace the thermal fuse and the aforementioned thermistor. Then check your connection hose for restrictions and clean the dryer vent from the dryer hookup to the outside.

Edited April 25, 2023 by MrApplianceMatt

[Jtrouble]

Both fuses checked good but replaced anyway since they are fairly cheap and had ordered as soon as the issue began. No luck so far in finding issue

[Vance R]

Next you'll need to measure voltages at the main module.  Tag one lead to neutral, the other goes to  connector P9 - 1 light blue wire.  Connector P9 has only 2 wires, one black, one light blue. The black wire is L1 into the module. the light blue is L1 out to the motor. 

[Jtrouble]

Ok, finally got it to go into diagnostic mode. Got F4E4. Ran leads to neutral and p9 and not seeing any readings 

[Vance R]

Since your module is working there should be 120 vac on the P9-2 black wire.  P9-1 the light blue wire will only have 120 vac when the  motor is supposed to be running. F4E4 means the CCU is detecting low voltage on L2.

[MrApplianceMatt]

2 minutes ago, Vance R said:

F4E4 means the CCU is detecting low voltage on L2.

@Jtrouble  Check your power from the wall to the board and everything in between. If it checks bad at the receptacle you'll also have to consider an issue at the breaker.

[Jtrouble]

I don’t seem to be getting continuity between L1 on power cord and P9

[MrApplianceMatt]

2 minutes ago, Jtrouble said:

I don’t seem to be getting continuity between L1 on power cord and P9

You would look for continuity between L1 and P9-2. You could have a bad cord or a bad connection at the terminal block. Additionally, it just occurred to me to ask if you've checked the board for a physical defect. I mean, remove it from it's clamshell and check the bottom for a burnt solder connection at the motor relay. It's one of the things I look for on these style boards.

[Jtrouble]

11 hours ago, MrApplianceMatt said:

You would look for continuity between L1 and P9-2. You could have a bad cord or a bad connection at the terminal block. Additionally, it just occurred to me to ask if you've checked the board for a physical defect. I mean, remove it from it's clamshell and check the bottom for a burnt solder connection at the motor relay. It's one of the things I look for on these style boards.

You nailed it. As you can see from pictures, burnt connection on the bottom of that main relay. Just replace that board?

[MrApplianceMatt]

Yeah. Trying to resolder that has a low success rate. It was when you typed that you hit start heard a click and then nothing when I thought, Hey, maybe it's the relay

Edited April 26, 2023 by MrApplianceMatt