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lothian.mcadam
Posted

Vissani MCWC50DS
Wine Cooler

I'm t'shooting a Vissani wine cooler (I believe Danby Appliances is the manufacturer).

I hear the very clear sound of gurgling from one specific location in the back of the appliance. I want to access this area to investigate the source of the noise. The back cover appears to be Plasticore. I cannot remove the sheet metal case nor the plastic interior.

I need to see the refrigerant line in the area circled in red. I prefer not to cut into the Plasticore, since obviously I don't want to nick the refrigerant line.

Feel free to post suggestions on how I should access this area.

 

 

Vissani MCWC50DST.jpg

Posted

The manufacture sealed the back so it would be cutting the panel. What issue are you having with the wine cooler? See your bullet valve in the picture, what is the presssure?

lothian.mcadam
Posted

I was unable to gain sufficient access to solder in a service port, thus the bullet valve.

I determined the approximate location of the noise, then very carefully cut a 4-in circle thru the 1/8-in Plexicore cover and peeled it away from the insulation. I then carefully excised the foam to reveal a the high pressure line (or maybe the capillary tube).

There's a sleeved solder joint at a rather (in my opinion) tight radius turn. I overcharged the system by a half-ounce to give the refrigerant sniffer something to pick up. It's worth noting that the entire exposed portion of this line frosts over when the unit runs.

So my question is...
If I find a leak at this junction, how does one reflow it without setting the fridge on fire? My thinking is to carefully lift the tube from the foam then slip a welding blanket between joint and foam.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

lothian.mcadam
Posted

IMG_4926.thumb.JPG.c712cffaa583463518693eb153873951.JPG

 

IMG_4927.thumb.JPG.804ac6391b4f9fc9549474944d1b90a3.JPG

 

IMG_4928.thumb.JPG.3f492579491761fab9bff15687a1c786.JPG

 

IMG_4929.thumb.JPG.3566cbfa56ef18f1e1c415a9d8ccac1b.JPG

Posted (edited)

 

Quote

how does one reflow it without setting the fridge on fire?

You can't get it torch near that without ruining the refrigerator.

The only way that's going to work is with Lokring.

Edited by Terry Carmen
lothian.mcadam
Posted

Lokring for a capillary tube?

Posted
Just now, lothian.mcadam said:

Lokring for a capillary tube?

Yes, there are fittings specifically for that

lothian.mcadam
Posted

Excellent. I'll look into Lokring.

Thanks!

lothian.mcadam
Posted

A thorough demonstration of the complete procedure for use of Lokring compression fittings in a sealed system:

Now I just have to find someone with that compression tool and convince them to let me borrow it.

 

Posted

The piercing vice grips he used on the drier didn't come with my kit. Anybody know who makes them? 

It's very cool to be able to make the hole in something you won't need later.

Posted

Had never seen the plier style with piercing valve. Did search on google, came across this one from Vulkan.

image.thumb.png.95dc803446e9e78a5e7cdb3a351ffb71.png

Not cheap

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I think I'm going to order one.

Also, I absolutely never thought of piercing the drier. It's a fantastic idea. I had been using bullet piercing valves, but they take a lot longer than the pliers because you have to mess with 3 screws and a spacer.

edit

OK, maybe not. They're apparently £529

 

Edited by Terry Carmen
  • Like 1
Posted

For bullet valve i use a 1/16" hex bit in my power screwdriver.

Posted
1 hour ago, Vance R said:

For bullet valve i use a 1/16" hex bit in my power screwdriver.

That's probably the way to go. The Vulkan tool looked cool, but not $650 worth of cool.

 

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