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Whirlpool washer LSQ8512KQ0, new transmission, new agitator, new dogs, but top agitator won't spin - just oscillates back and forth


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Posted
12 minutes ago, VAlto said:

Ok, so I think what you're saying is better to throw it all away rather than try something off book?   Because I already tried a new agitator AND a new transmission shaft, but either the tolerances of the agitator replacement part is slightly off and slips on the shaft spline, or as Budget Repair said the transmission die is worn down so the new shaft is slightly too small.  Either way it will never again work as designed.  So best to put it all out for trash pickup rather than try?

You asked a specific question and I quote: "I would appreciate feedback on putting some set screws through the lower agitator into the bottom of the shaft splines to eliminate the play.  Thank you."

My previous reply was my feedback you wanted. Sounds to me like you really wanna do the set screw thing, so do it. In fact I'm curious how long it takes to break and what kind of damage it causes. But if you're looking for someone here to say "great idea, just screw a screw into the agitator till it reached the splines" I don't think you'll find it here.  I think the screw will slip out the first movement the shaft makes and/or wear out the hole in the agitator where the screw is or crack it...I don't know. So do it so we know what happens. Do it for science.

As far as throwing it out, I didn't say that. I said fix it properly. Show us a picture of the splines on the new agitator. Show us the whole agitator that we can see it's the right one. Show us the damage inside the old transmission. Or buy a used one like Vance said and get another used agitator too. Or maybe you can get a whole used direct drive washer cheap. Let's fix it right. Yeah, you'll have to spend money. But this model washer is worth spending money on. If you throw it out, you'll have to spend money on another washer. Fix this one. This is my opinion, do what you want, it's a free country.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Okay, back to basics.  What should be the rotational angle of the gearcase shaft during agitation?  Hard to find info but I found one site that said 180 degrees then reverse for 180 degrees.  But mine only goes about 30 degrees each direction - see video.  And this is all without the agitator.  So my concerns about the agitator might be a red herring because it doesn't seem like the shaft is moving right despite being a new transmission.  Was it suppose to be lined up a certain way before putting it in?  

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, VAlto said:

Okay, back to basics.  What should be the rotational angle of the gearcase shaft during agitation?  Hard to find info but I found one site that said 180 degrees then reverse for 180 degrees.  But mine only goes about 30 degrees each direction - see video.  And this is all without the agitator.  So my concerns about the agitator might be a red herring because it doesn't seem like the shaft is moving right despite being a new transmission.  Was it suppose to be lined up a certain way before putting it in?  

IMG_4192.MOV 8.93 MB · 0 downloads  

 

There is nothing wrong with that movement. It moves as it should.

Posted

Two things.  First, there was interest in seeing my damaged internal gearcase parts, so attached a pic.  Second, and more important, my new transmission has a gear clunking sound at one spot when I rotate it by hand.  I have NOT opened up this one!  I took off the agitator so it doesn't confuse the issue, and am holding a sock to rotate it more comfortably.  You can hear the clunking at the end of the video.  What do you think?  I don't want to run this one to the point of self-destruct also so trying to be proactive.

 

IMG_4216.thumb.JPG.8e4b078d3912dc80610a6c372eac5fc2.JPG

Posted

What do you think of the sound in the video?  It concerns me, should it?  I'm wondering if I should open the new one and make sure everything is seated correctly.  Maybe the shaft was jostled during shipping and something is off.  While in there I could swap in what old parts I have left that are good? Alternatively, take the 4 parts I need from the new one and rebuild my old one?  

Posted
48 minutes ago, VAlto said:

What do you think of the sound in the video?  It concerns me, should it?  I'm wondering if I should open the new one and make sure everything is seated correctly.  Maybe the shaft was jostled during shipping and something is off.  While in there I could swap in what old parts I have left that are good? Alternatively, take the 4 parts I need from the new one and rebuild my old one?  

Couldn't tell you one way or another about the sound in the video if it's normal or not. Never had a reason to turn it by hand like that. But the way to test it is to run the washer.

I would bypass the lid switch or in your case you can stick something in the lid switch BUT something that will stay and not interrupt the lid switch even with vibration or whatever. Then start the washer with the lid open at the start of the timer cycle and leave it alone till the end and watch it run through the drain spin cycle and make sure you know for a fact that the neutral drain works or not.

Then I would buy those parts I linked and rebuild the old transmission. Once that is done I would return the new transmission. I don't think you should open it, they may not take it back then.

Then make sure your bottom agitator looks like the old bottom agitator, so you have the right one. Check to see if the new or old agitator splines are stripped. Put the agitator together by following one of those videos. There is some little detail you're doing wrong and we don't know what. The top agitator with dogs should rotate one way even when the agitator is off the shaft. Maybe your old bottom agitator isn't damaged and splines are ok? Maybe you can use it and return the new one. You only bought it because you thought that was why the dogs don't work, right?

Posted

Unfortunately I replaced the agitator about 4 months ago and no longer have the old one, BUT the splines weren't the problem with it, the tabs on top had broken off where it seats with the upper agitator.  I found this when I replaced the dogs.  Splines weren't even on my mind then, and I thought I was doing the right thing to make sure it was all correct.

I ran through a full cycle yesterday, the lid switch has been bypassed this whole time, and it ran perfectly, neutral drain also.  In fact I ran it with a full load of laundry and just hand agitated for wash and rinse.  All the filling, draining and spinning was perfect.  

I know for sure that the new agitator splines are stripped fairly flat, but I don't know why and it's an expensive thing for trial and error.  So I'm trying to figure out why before shelling out another $100.  After replacing the agitator and dogs (which I've done several times and am sure I'm doing correctly), the only thing that was wrong that started me on this transmission journey was the neutral drain not working.  So it ran for x months or year with that condition, no idea how long.  Could it be that spinning with a full tub of water contributed to stripping the new plastic splines?  The old one was so corroded on the rusty shaft that I had to use a 2x4 and ratcheting strap to pop it off, so it definitely wasn't going to slip.  The rusty corroded shaft is one of the reasons to use parts from the new transmission.  Plus, the eBay seller says no returns.

IMG_4222[1].JPG

Posted (edited)

You have a working new transmission and your lower agitator splines are stripped. That could've happened from the rusty shaft splines. Weight of the laundry was holding the agitator while shaft splines stripped it, because they were slightly rounded from the corrosion. Shaft must've been slipping, that's what causes stripped agitator splines.  Solution is to find a lower agitator WP3951632 or under old part number 3951632 with tabs and splines not stripped. New or used. New will not have any wear on the splines. Then you're home my friend!

Edited by igloo
Posted

Put on the (second) new agitator today and it all seems to work perfectly!  Ran a whole cycle with laundry, normal agitation and then step-down speed agitation, neutral drain in both the wash and rinse cycle, high spin, agitator bolt stayed tight.  This time I tapped down the clear cam, which I have never done before and I don't recall being mentioned in any repair video.  Then the rubber washer was sitting flush, not on just the raised middle circle of the lower agitator surrounding the bolt - which had previously completely reamed out the center of two other new washers. The only other thing I noticed was that during the neutral drain there is a definite rattling sound coming from the new transmission, like dice being gently shaken in a mug, so I don't know if that's a portend of problems to come, or if it's normal, or if it's there during other places in the cycle and I just can't hear it through the other sounds.  I guess I'll just use it and see what happens.  I think somebody mentioned that the new transmission has a 1 year manufacturer warranty, which I don't want to void by doing exploratory surgery.  And keep all my old parts (including the new neutral drain kit) to be ready to swap something out if need be after that.  Thanks for all the help!  I hope it goes another 20 years!

Posted

Happy you got it fixed! 👍

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