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  • Upcoming Events

    • 15 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      Returning guest presenter Aaron Wilson is back for another exciting discussion. This time, we'll be talking about...
      The Science of CYA: How to Keep the Customer Safe, Document Your Work, and Not Get Sued
      We take on a lot of liability as appliance repair techs, and that can get us into sticky situations whether we've done anything wrong or not. Aaron will be teaching us all about how to navigate this side of the trade.
      We'll start by going over a tragic, real-world case study where a sloppy installation had lethal results, analyzing exactly how the installer's negligence caused this. From there, our scope will expand to what kind of safety precautions we should implement in our own work, both for the customer's sake and for our own.
      But even if you do everything perfectly, there's still the famous "technician witch hunt." Well, we'll also talk about how to deal with that by thoroughly documenting your work and putting yourself beyond legal reproach.
      A little about our guest, Aaron Wilson:
      Aaron has been in the appliance repair trade for about 15 years, starting out by doing installations before moving on to bigger and better things. He worked for C&W Services as a Sub-Zero authorized servicer for a time and thereafter joined Mr. Appliance of Highland Park in the Dallas area, where he worked for years as the lead technician and field service manager. These days, he's making sure that all the appliances of everyone's favorite fried chicken place are in tip-top shape as the Quality and Performance Consultant for the southwest branch of Chick-fil-A. In addition, he has taught many classes on refrigeration repair and advanced diagnostics, during which time he also developed training material for the soft skills side of things, which he is delighted to share with you. On top of all that he's a certified graduate of the Master Samurai Tech Academy, so he knows his stuff!
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is available to everybody, including you! You don't have to be a member of Appliantology to join the fun.
      When: Saturday, February 15 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to register. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it. 

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Posted

Hey fellow handymen and handywomen. This is my first post on here but I'm glad to know there's a place to talk about fixing appliances, I've been fixing my own appliances even before I had to. As a kid I would take them apart to see how they worked.

But I'm stumped on this one so far.

Just bought a second hand, very lightly used LG Washtower, model WKE100HVA, and plugged it in using the older 3 prong cord and it turned on but I could feel there is no heat coming out of the vent. And after the dryer spins for about 3 minutes it shuts down and shows an error code nP which according to the internet means "no power". I used my multimeter and checked for 240V coming in to the back of the machine and yes, it does have power. The next thing I checked were YouTube videos and found one that said the thermal switch can fail. So using my multimeter, I checked three things... 

1) Thermostat. There are three wires. It had continuity on all terminals.

2) Thermal cut off switch (or at least I think that's the name of it). This has two wires. They had continuity.

3) Heating element. This has three wires. I looked up the OHM specs and supposedly they are supposed to be 20, 20 and 40. Each set of wires measured correctly for OHMs.

I included three pictures. One picture is the back of the machine where my wires attach (yes I know they're routed on the outside, I had to do that temporarily) . The second picture is from the top showing a control board of some sort behind the power coming into the machine. The third picture is inside looking at the heating element, on the left is the thermostat, the next is the thermal cut off and then the three colored wires (red,yellow, blue) going to the heating element.

 

The question is... what should I check next?

 

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