Jump to content
LIMITED TIME OFFER: Get up to $100 off tuition for Master Samurai Tech courses through November 30th ×
Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    No upcoming events found

Recommended Posts

Posted

My Kitchenaid stopped working yesterday and I would really appreciate any help with diagnosis.  Here is what I've done:

- Cleaned the condensor coils

-looked for freezing around the evaporator and fan - none

- Ran through the diagnostic tests and all thermistors/sensors are working.  All fans are also working

- Test #6 shows defrost heater/bi-metal is open.  (but I did this diagnostic when fridge was at room temperature...so wouldn't it make sense to be open at this point?)

- I am now trying to start the fridge from room temperature...the compressor is running and just warm to the touch.  Defrost fan in the freezer is blowing....but the air is room temp.  All diagnostic tests indicate sensors/fans working...compressor is on...but no cold air!

I've contemplated an issue with the control board....but even if there was a problem with it, wouldn't the fridge still blow cold air given that the compressor is running?

Could it be that refrigerant has escaped the system somehow?  This is a pretty new (2021), high-end fridge.

One piece of information that might be useful, is that I believe the fridge door hasn't been sealing for some time.  We were putting bagged lunches in the front and it wasn't until the fridge stopped working, I inspected and saw a slight gap in the seal right at the top of the door.  Could the introduction of warm air messed things up?  Again, there was no ice build-up...and there is certainly not any build-up now as I start the fridge from room temp.

Thanks a lot for your help!

-Chris

  • Replies 7
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • ServiceTech_Daniel

    4

  • Chris16

    4

Posted

Is there a frost pattern on the evaporator (Freezer or fresh food)

If the compressor is running, and you have no frost pattern , it sounds like you have a sealed system issue, either the compressor is bad and lost all compression , or there is a leak somewhere in the system . You might want to have a servicer come and repair it at this point if you are not experianced in sealed system repair 

11 hours ago, Chris16 said:

Could the introduction of warm air messed things up?

If the door isn't sealing properly , one major thing you would notice in the freezer is Rime Ice/frost on the walls, and condensation in the fresh food section

 

 

Posted

Thanks for reply Daniel.

Although I do think the top of the door hasn't been sealing properly because of food we've been putting towards the front of the door, I don't believe that that's the issue.  We've never before had problems with ice/frost in the freezer or condensation in the fresh food section.  Things were working perfectly, and then suddenly, the cooling stopped.

I am definitely not experienced in sealed system repair.  The fridge has a 10 year sealed system warranty so KitchenAid is sending someone out on Monday to inspect.  Beyond the initial consulting fee, if there is a problem with the sealed system, they'll cover parts and labour.  I'll report back.  Thanks a lot for the feedback!

-Chris

Posted

Though it sucks to have to do a major repair on your refrigerator at least there is a 10 year warranty! 

 

Daniel

Posted

Hi Daniel.

The appliance repair specialist came and determined that there was a blockage in the drier (I think)..so he cut open the system, blew it out, vacuumed it, put a new drier on, and then recharged.  It's working well now.

But I'm still concerned about something that I forgot to ask him about:

Service test - 6: Defrost Heater/Bi-metal....it's showing 02 which means bi-metal is open.

The note describing the test says:  "If bi-metal is open, it will need to be bypassed for heater to operate.  Heater should be on. Display will be blank until valid reading is displayed."

Is it normal for bi-metal to be open?  I'm thinking that if the evaporator is not cold enough, it makes sense that it would be open...and it would only close during a defrost cycle.  What does it mean when it says, "Heater should be on".

I'm worried that if the bi-metal isn't operating properly, things will start to freeze up and airflow will be restricted.

Please let me know if you think the results from service test 6 are problematic and whether you think I should proactively put in another bi-metal sensor.

Thanks a lot!

-Chris

Posted

Update:

The bi-metal relay is now closed...if just must have taken a while to get cold enough to close.

Thanks for your help!

-Chris

Posted

Hey @Chris16 glad to hear that the technician was able to get you up and going, and yes you hit it right on the head about the bi-metal, once it was cold enough it would close . 

Posted

Sorry i didn't respond right away , i was caught up at work and home getting ready for our vacation 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...