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How to Fix All Serial Communications Error Codes in Whirlpool-built Front-load Washers

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 22 November 2013 · 2,340 views
Whirlpool, Maytag, communications and 6 more...
The dreaded “serial communications error” in Whirlpool-built front-load washers appears as various codes, depending on the particular model. On the Old-Skool Duet washers, the most common communications error code was F-11: communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). On the new model Duet washers, this same error has been re-labelled as F-28. On some Maytag front loaders (all built by Whirlpool, in case you didn’t already know that), you may see an F6E2 fault code, which is a communications error between the CCU and the User Interface (UI) boards.

Many a fine battle-hardened appliance warrior has been befuddled by these error codes and have needlessly soiled their undergarments throwing every control board in the box at it.

But these serial communications error codes all have one big thing in common:

They are almost NEVER caused by a bad circuit board! Instead, they are exactly as the error code description says: a COMMUNICATIONS error between two boards. In other words, a bad connection.

Oh, I know— you’ll hear some guys swear it was a bad board because they replaced the such-and-such board and it fixed the problem, so it had to be a bad board. But I’m here to show you that in 99.9999% of these cases, the board itself is perfectly functional but the real problem is the CONNECTIONS to the board.

“Uhh, howzzat, Samurai Smart-ass Guy?”

Ahh, Grasshoppah, make still your mind and the Samurai shall reveal the truth unto thee. And the truth shall make you free. Come with me now on a journey of Total Appliance Enlightenment™…

Let's think about the modern front loading washer and the average laundry room for a minute. In these front loaders, you have at least two (CCU and MCU) sometimes four (CCU, MCU, UI, and Steam Board) different boards that all need to talk to each other and pass data back and forth: digital data, voltages. How do they do this?

Since they haven’t incorporated internal Wi-Fi into appliances yet, all these boards are connected to each other by special wire harnesses called serial communications cables. All this data exchange is fact-checked and verified by a process called “handshaking” (yes, that’s what it’s really called). If, at any time during this continuous process of passing data back and forth an error is discovered during the handshaking, the CCU throws a serial communications error. The closest it can get in the error code is by telling you which two boards had trouble talking. But that’s close enough!

So what causes these handshaking errors? Lots of things! In fact, given the conditions that these washing machines have to work in— lots of vibration, moisture, humidity, heat, etc.— it’s amazing they work as well as they do. But all it takes is a loose connection at a molex connector on a wire harness or an oxidized pad on the control board to disrupt that handshaking. It doesn’t even need to be a totally broken connection, just one with low enough signal-to-noise ratio that the CCU can’t tell which is signal and which is noise.

Okay, here’s the part you’ve been waiting for: the Silver Bullet Fix for these elusive and mysterious serial communications errors in Whirlpool-built front-load washers.

The harness itself can (and usually does) check good. That's not usually the problem. The problem is at the harness connection points where the molex connector on the harness connects to the boards at either end. The tines can become loose or the pads on the board may become oxidized. Here's a technique that I've used with great success in these types of problems. BTW, all modern front loaders work the same way and use pretty much the same basic technology so this solution concept for serial communications errors applies to all brands of front load washers, not just Whirlpool:




Learn Samurai's Secret that Stops the Stink in Your Front-Load Washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 13 November 2013 · 1,229 views
washer, front load, stink, HE and 3 more...
One of the most common complaints I hear people make about front-load washers is about odor: stinky basket, stinky door gasket, stinky towels, stinky underwear... okay, I'll stop there.

In almost every case, when I see (smell) this problem on service calls, they all invariably have the same cause: incorrect detergent usage, either too much or the wrong kind.

For front-load washers (and HE top-loaders), you should only be using HE detergent.

And, no, using less of the regular stuff is not the same thing because washing clothes in a low water environment requires a special chemistry, which is what the HE detergents are engineered to do. I don't understand why someone would spend over $1,000 for a front-load washer and then try to shave shekels buying cheap detergent. That's what we call penny-wise and dollar-dumb.

I'll hear some Appliantologists say that you should only use powdered detergent, sometimes they'll even recommend a specific brand, like Tide. This is well-meaning but misguided misinformation. Using powdered or liquid HE detergent is not the issue because the chemistry is the same. What does matter is using the correct amount of HE detergent for your water hardness quality. The general guidelines are:

HE detergent: 2 tablespoons

HEx2 (double concentrated): 1 tablespoon

HEx3: 1 teaspoon

Unless you know for a fact that you have very hard water where you live (defined as > 10.5 gpg, more details in this post), then the most HE detergent you should ever use, powder or liquid, is 2 tablespoons.

The number one problem that people don't seem to get is that they are using too much detergent, whether powdered or liquid. Even if it is HE, too much will cause odor problems.

FWIW, we've been using liquid HE detergent in our front loaders for the past 15 years and never had even a whiff of an odor or mildew issue. But we have always implemented the 9 odor-beating techniques AND always remove the clothes from the washer as soon as they're done.

It's also important that your detergent is fresh, and if you use powdered, it must be kept completely dry. If the powder gets damp while in storage, it loses most of its punch.

Pop quiz:

Q. What's the biggest single difference between HE and non-HE detergents? Give up?

A. HE detergent has additives specifically designed to suppress sudsing because sudsing interferes with the mechanical action of removing soils from fabrics.

Okay, here's another one:

Q. What do most people like to see when they do laundry?

A. SUDS! Lots and lots of suds. They open the lid or look through the glass and don't see suds, what do they do? Yep: add more detergent until they see suds. Then they wonder why their clothes stink.

Fun Fact to Know and Tell (FFTKAT): Detergent contains most of the necessary ingredients to support microbial life. In other words, it's bug food. What do bacteria do as they grow? Like all life forms, they produce waste products. Sometimes, this is a good thing, like in the case of making beer. But other times, it's a bad thing, like in the case of making stinky laundry.

The detergent manufacturers are partly to blame here, too. They put idiot directions on the label instructing the customer to use too much. Supposedly, the usage instructions are based on a North American average of water hardness. I'm not sure I believe that. The amount they say to use would be appropriate for areas with extreme hard water. For most areas, the amount on the label is three to four times too much and causes all kinds of problems, including odors and the infamous F35/sud error code in Whirlpool steam washers...




How to manually release the brake on a GE washer top-load washer and assess proper brake operation

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 12 November 2013 · 727 views
GE, washer, top load, brake, spin and 1 more...

In order to see the brake release mechanism, you will either need to tilt the washer back and take the bottom panel off or use a mirror. When you rotate the pulley, the cam dog should rotate towards the brake hub dog and a gap should open up between the cam hub and brake hub. If this is happening, then the brake release is probably ok and if you rotate the pulley hard and fast and the metallic clanking sound you hear is the two dogs hitting each other, then the brake release is again, probably ok. This means something is jamming the inner tub from turning. Could be clothing between the tubs, a seized tub bearing, a worn split ring (drive block) or the inner tub hub is bad. A worn split ring or bad tub hub can causes the inner tub to rub against the outer tub preventing it from rotating. You will need to remove the agitator and inner tub to figure out the problem.

BTW, make sure the transmission pulley nut is tight. A loose nut can prevent the brake release from working.

Eric

Posted Image



Source: How can I bypass door sensor on GE washer WLSE3150A0WW


How to fix the PE error code in an LG washer dryer combo unit

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair, Dryer Repair 06 November 2013 · 2,256 views
LG, washer, dryer, combo and 3 more...

"PE" error:

Water Level Pressure Sensor Error.


1) Verify that the black tube is still connected to the Water Level Sensor at the top of the washer---and to the Air Bell at the bottom of the tub.

2) Remove the black tube from the Water Level Sensor---and blow into tube---to clear a possible blockage. Reconnect and test washer.

3) Water Level Pressure Sensors (6601ER1006E) *rarely* fail.



Source: LG Combo Washer/dryer not drying


How to troubleshoot an LG front load washer with no display or power

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 06 November 2013 · 795 views
LG, washer, power, display and 1 more...

Remove the Top Cover of the washer.

Trace/follow the *plug* inside the washer---to the Electrical Noise Filter (6201EC1006L)

Pull off the *white* plug---use a test meter to check for 120V at the *white* plug (if no power---the fault is outside of the washer)

Re-connect the *white* plug back into the Noise Filter

Pull off the *pink* plug from the Noise Filter---test for 120V at the **Noise Filter** (NOT at the pink plug)

If no 120V at the Noise Filter---replace it.

If 120V is measured at the Noise Filter---replace the Main Board (EBR64144911)



Source: LG front load washer, no power






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