34 minutes ago, Raynormensk said:

The dryer won't run if the door switch is open, so a good test to confirm the door switch is remaining open with the door closed, is to select a cycle, and try starting the dryer running. If it wont start, that confirms the door switch is remaining open. The motor circuit cannot be completed without a closed door switch.

Although all that’s true, you’ve not proven anything. This is just restating the original problem statement. You have not proven that the door switch is the problem and not the main board (which, BTW, the tech replaced with no joy). 

33 minutes ago, PlanB said:

I would measure the voltage from L1 and J3-2. 

There’s an even easier way that doesn’t require a meter. Hint: jumper wire. 

3 minutes ago, JohnnyCage said:

Use a jumper wire to connect the orange to brown wire connection on the door switch?

You’re on the right track. While that would work, you would need to remove the front panel to install the jumper. There’s a more clever way to do it right from the control board and all you have to remove is the top panel. 

2 hours ago, JohnnyCage said:

Jump J2-3 to J3-2?

Yes! 

10 minutes ago, MarcusF said:

Is J2-3 just looking for the presence of 120V WRT to Neutral after the thermal limiter but before the door switch?

Yes, J2-3 is a sensing line like we’ve seen in the Samsung and LG dryers (and other appliances). Excellent!

Pop quiz: What’s the functional difference between J2-3 and J2-4? 

You got it, Toyota! 

7 hours ago, Slav said:

If jumping the Door Switch doesn't work, we can assume the Outlet Thermal Limiter is open.

Yes, but you probably wouldn't even need to assume. The fact that J2-3 is a sensing line for a computer means the computer's OS would likely be programmed to pick up the open on J2-3 and throw an error code. 

7 hours ago, Slav said:

So we could jump J2-4 to J3-2 to bypass both the Door and the Thermal Limiter... right?

Correctillia!