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WPL dryer timer- intermittent heat


As you’ve probably seen, the new Whirlpool dryer timers have not been very robust and are prone to several failures. These failures include: no heat, intermittent heat, not advancing the cycle, and not ending the cycle.

A service call yesterday was for a “not drying clothes” complaint. Now I normally associate a dryer that’s heating but not drying clothes as a possible exhaust restriction, and that would be my first test- airflow. BUT, when it’s a Whirlpool built unit with a timer- the first thing I do is pull the knob off to see if the timer shaft is plastic or metal. If it’s a plastic shaft- I now have my Spidey senses activated and have to consider the possibility of an intermittent timer failure. My case yesterday was such.

So what is failing on the timer? Let’s look inside!

The first thing I see is plastic gears, cams, and reeds. And the they just look cheap and flimsy- and they are. I can see some contacts are pitted and crusty looking. One in particular is the L2 contact. That contact is direct to the heat circuit. Hmmmm…. So when I spin the timer and watch the cams and contacts do their dance- I can see that the reed for that cam is not riding like the rest. When I look closer I see that the point of contact if the reed is worn down. What’s happening is that that L2 contact is being made sometimes, and sometimes not. BOOM SHAKA LAKA!

 

 

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12 Comments


Recommended Comments

Koi Guy

Posted

Here's the "wiring diagram"- if that's what they want to call it. :) 

image.png.77f5692b41b2f920370a79b8b42d9010.png

  • Like 11
Captain Dunsel

Posted

I also see some expense brand new Speed Queen Dryers with this cheap ass timer!

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted

A visually stunning inaugural post! :rocker:

  • Like 2
StadGeor3

Posted

Seen more than a few of these stinking failures.  These companies really need to be held accountable for the JUNK they are putting out there at the cost of the consumer.  By the way, I have continued to use OEM which is getting too costly for many of my customers, any suggestions for some quality parts not breaking the bank?  I continue to do repairs after I have retired and I really want to keep many if the units out of the trash heap

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Joe B, Stoughton Appliance Repair

Posted

@Koi Guy thanks. Great post. Great info. You’re a bright light in a shady profession. 

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AQAppliances

Posted

Simple diagnosis for these timers is to open the door and hood door switch to allow it to run. I then wiggle the timer back and forth and you will sometimes see the heating element glow.

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Vince Neibert

Posted

17 hours ago, AQAppliances said:

I then wiggle the timer back and forth and you will sometimes see the heating element glow.

I do something similar. I take the back off and place my amprobe on one of the heater legs and start the dryer. I then push the timer shaft from side to side while watching the amp reading. 

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted

15 minutes ago, Vince Neibert said:

I do something similar. I take the back off and place my amprobe on one of the heater legs and start the dryer. I then push the timer shaft from side to side while watching the amp reading. 

That's how I roll. Minimal disassembly and you don't even have to move the dryer. 

 

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fillthebarman

Posted

Great post.  I’ve seen several myself!

Joe B, Stoughton Appliance Repair

Posted

@Vince Neibert @Koi Guy

saw this failure today. CX complaint: Intermittent heat. No heat on low. 

Rear panel off. verified heater and stats. Put amp clamp on heater. Wiggled timer: amps jump 0-22amps

Diagnose failed timer. Thanks guys. 

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Richie Mac

Posted

I LOVE coming in here and reading / watching the little tips now that I understand them better.  Nice break down of the Timer to show exactly what was happening inside.  Kudos!  Also, thanks for the short video Master!!  All great stuff & duly noted.  Have a great day all!

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igloo

Posted (edited)

I had this today. Set the timer on 50 minutes time dry and barely moved the timer knob side to side. Multimeter on LoZ voltage reading from red to sky blue, the A to B timer L1 contact.

BTW, dryer also ran by closing the door without pressing the start button.

For reference timer part number was W11043389 On an Amana YNED4600TQ1

 

Edited by igloo
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