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The Willie Method ™ for testing the radiant (flame) sensor in a gas dryer burner

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Gas dryer not firing up and all the components of the burner check out good but you're not sure how to check that flame sensor on the side of the burner tube? Samurai Appliance Repair Academy Fellow Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) reveals the wax on-wax off moves for testing the radiant sensor in a gas dryer.

The full way to bypass and test if the radiant sensor is the problem:

1) UNPLUG DRYER FIRST!

2) remove both wires from the radiant sensor

3) bypass the sensor by sliding the two connector terminals together and make sure they are away from everything

4) plug the dryer back in and set to a timer position that should heat.

5) start dryer and and watch for igniter to start glowing.

6) if the igniter glows wait about 10 to 12 seconds and pull the two wires apart carefully making sure not to touch the ends or short them to anything.

7) if all else is OK with the dryer the flame should light up when you separate the two radiant sensor wires

8) if the above all works OK and it didn't before then replacing the radiant sensor should fix your problem.

Here's the part link for the replacement radiant sensor ==> Flame Sensor

This video shows you how to replace it:

Source: Maytag gas dryer LDG9334AAE not heating--can I jump a Radiant Sensor?

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4 Comments

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kdog

kdog

Posted

Hahaha - You've "trademarked" some of Willies finest moments !

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dfphoto

dfphoto

Posted

question on this test, how do you remove the wires if the machine is apart to access the flame sensor or am I missing the obvious... Thank you!

MisFixIt

MisFixIt

Posted

When you separate the 2 radiant sensor wires in step 7, isn't the flame sensor going from a bypass state to an isolated from the circuit? I'm not quite understanding how that tactic would allow the gas solenoid valve to release gas and create a flame thus indicating a faulty flame sensor. 

(I'm also in the process of replacing a flame sensor which I accidentally broke a spade off with needle nose pliers but I think it was already faulty - ignitor works, no flame, and solenoid valves seem to be in spec.) 

Terry Carmen

Terry Carmen

Posted (edited)

2 hours ago, MisFixIt said:

When you separate the 2 radiant sensor wires in step 7, isn't the flame sensor going from a bypass state to an isolated from the circuit? I'm not quite understanding how that tactic would allow the gas solenoid valve to release gas and create a flame thus indicating a faulty flame sensor. 

When the wires are shorted, it simulates the sensors's default, cold state. This runs 120 volts through the igniter and the hold coil, bypasses the main and assist coils and (hopefully) heats up the igniter.

When you pull the wires apart, this simulates he sensor's hot state and runs the 120 volts though the main and assist coils and with any luck lets out the gas and lights it.

The hold coil is always energized when the burner is on.

Edited by Terry Carmen
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