Master , There is a Bearing & seal kit available on newer models & a spinner. You must have special tool,.  I also have replaced the bearing seal kit on

the whirlpool/fisher payker top loads, alot easier than replacing the whole outer tub.

Sorry I had to look it all up again.  LOL Hey I live on a boat, dont keep good records.

You save about $200 clams & at least an hour in labor.   Done it only once so I took a long time .

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rear-Drum-Support/4434ER0002A/1267517

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Bearing/4280FR4048L/1267500

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Bearing/4280FR4048E/1267498

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Spin-Seal/4036ER2004A/1267489

  bad link http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rear-Drum-Support/4434ER0002A/1267517

heres part number if this link goes bad again  : 

Rear Drum Support 4434ER0002A

I realize I am replying to a 6 month old topic but this thread has been most useful to me. I have a WM2487HRM that seems to have a bad bearing. It spins OK with no load but is not balanced. Under load it wobbles pretty bad (enough that that the drum rubs the seal so much it starts to smoke). I have removed the tub unit from the machine and trying to separate the back half from the inner tub but the bearing seems to be holding it in place.

 How do you pull the bearing?  There is mention of a special tool above, do you have a link?

 Here are some photos of where I am at now ...

OK, I got past the above issue. I just needed to stack the outer tub (back half) on some braces so the inner tub was off the ground a bit and then I just used a dead blow hammer on the spindle in order to push it through the bearings. I was also able to pop the bearings out of the back half of the outer tub with a chisel and same hammer.

So I figured I just needed to get the spider arm off the back of the inner drum (you can see photo #3 in above album) and then I would be all set and ready to order the pieces mentioned by Dimitri. Unfortunately I have not been able to remove 2 of the 6 bolts off that retain the spider arm to the inner tub. These 2 bolts turn with much effort but are not coming out like the others. It feels like there may be bolts on the other side but I cannot see as the inner tub seems to have layers also. I will see tomorrow if there is any way to get those 2 nuts out but at this point I probably will just order these parts for my repair:

+ Inner Basket   3045ER1017A

+ Tub Bearing (inside)  4280FR4048L
+ Tub Bearing Seal   4036ER2004A
+ Tub Bearing (outside) 4280FR4048E

+ Tub O-Ring Seal 4036ER4001B

Any ideas on getting those 2 bolts free would be appreciated but it looks like my inner tub has some rust and corrosion on it anyways (although it may clean up if I spent time on it). If I can get those last bolts off the spider arm then I would probably go back to just getting the spider arm instead of the whole inner tub.

So I never even try to turn the spider bolts without heat, ever.  They are held in with extreme thread lock, you will only damage them.  For sealed system work, I now use LokRing, but I keep my old oxy/acetylene torch for washer spiders.

Heat the spider only where the bolt is in, not the bolt while holding tension on the ratchet - it will let loose in about 8 seconds.

also I ALWAYS replace the spider unless I'm doing a repair for an enemy, it's only about $40.  A spider, set of bearings and a seal (all less than $70) is all I need for 90% of LG repairs.  Sometimes I might need a front tub (another $50) if the customer ignored the loud noise and later major thumping for a year.   Pull out the tub o-ring seal, clean up the slot and seal, then should be OK to just put it back in.  Good profit in this repair.  You don't need any pullers, just knock the bearing out with a steel bar, put new bearings in by banging on the old ones on top of the new ones.