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You guys are awesome!!

I know this wasn't posted in the Appliance Repair Forum but I wanted to add that broken wires in the wiring harness on the deli drawer was the cause of the E6 error code. Reminds me of the KitchenAid 5 door nightmare.

I replace the spring clamps with screw down hose clamps most of the time.

@Son of Samurai you're so good!!!! appreciate the work!!!

Uses these docs:

Beko DDT39434XIH 7621109580 Dishwasher Tech Bundle View File Troubleshooting doc PUB 822803 Service test mode PUB 822804 settings menu PUB 822805 error code list PUB 822806 disassembly PUB 1759910002 schematic PUB 1759930001 Submitter Son of Samurai Submitted 05/27/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Manufacturer: Beko Type of Appliance: dishwasher Model Number: DDT39434XIH Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): y Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): y Hello all, wondering if you have any Beko manuals DDT39434XIH as usual very thankful!

A slow-heating oven like your GE Profile JB910B LGSS often points to a failing or partially working bake element—even if it's hidden and still producing some heat. Since it eventually reaches temperature but takes unusually long, the element may be damaged or not getting full voltage due to a weak relay, faulty sensor, or control board issue. That spark from the food spill near the convection fan could have caused shorting or internal damage. Start by checking the bake element continuity with a multimeter (you’ll likely need to pull the oven out and access it from the back panel). If the element tests fine, the temperature sensor or control board may be the culprit. A full visual inspection behind the rear panel should reveal any obvious damage or disconnected wiring.

Uses this bundle: And this schematic:

Only see this one:

Check this video similar to your Range. Also, I see attached exploded view of parts. But please double-check as this is for the closest model number match. Check 4 parts mentioned below for this issue: 1) Bake Element 2) Broil Element 3) Oven Temperature Sensor 4) Oven Control Board

Manufacturer: Fisher&Paykel Type of Appliance: Dishwasher Model Number: DD24DDFX7 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Hello, Looking for the Service Manual for the DD24DDFX7 Fisher&Paykel dishwasher. The closest manual I found here doesn’t match the UI of my model. (mine has only 3 buttons and no display) Thank you!!!

These harnesses go bad too. The thermal fuse cuts out. I have also seen a few with evap thermistors showing 50 degrees while buried in ice. I have found in these SxS units that they will sometimes seem to default to timed defrost if the thermistor is unplugged. I have also seen the backed out connector on these and given my experience with them I typically quote the harness and the thermistor regardless of which of those 3 failures occurred because the harness and the thermistor have updated part numbers.

Thank you for updating, the more information the better! I have repaired two of this model now, both were not defrosting. One was electronic board, the other was a loose wire in the harness just above the evaporator. Give all the plugs and connectors a gentle tug. I have a feeling we will start to see many more of these.

Manufacturer: BOSCH Type of Appliance: DRYER Model Number: WTG86402UC/01 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): YES Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): YES Thanks for any help, much appreciated.

Domo, Captain!

GE GTX18GSSJ1WW Dryer Mini Manual View File Pub 31-16293 Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 05/26/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Uploading mini manual and waiting on approval:

@SVeig The coupling that is stripped out is in the top of your agitator. You have to cut the circle of plastic out in the top so that you can drive what is left of the agitator coupling out of the agitator and clean any remaining rubber out of the spline slots in the agitator. All the parts that are still on the transmission look to be OK and the transmission agitator splines look in good shape. To install the new coupling you would put it onto the agitator shaft of the transmission, soap up the rubber splines and drive the agitator back onto the new coupling.

Sorry for the late response here, hope you see this. I replaced my thermistor (the one near the evap fan motor on April 10th, so far, so good. I did not zip-tie the thermistor directly to the coil like others have suggested. I STILL haven't put all the shelves back yet because they were a pita to remove, but so far so good and no ice buildup. Here is a link to the part I purchased: https://a.co/d/aUt1Elq oh one more thing to note! I actually moved the thermistor over a tad from where it was, it was closer to the rounded turn of the coil, I moved it so it was more on the straight part of the coil, I was hoping it just wasn't making a good connection in addition to being bad. Anyway, I apparently don't have a picture of the new one on in the new spot, but I tried to highlight it in a box there for you. Hope it helps!

Manufacturer: GE Type of Appliance: Dryer Model Number: GTX18GSSJ1WW Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes cant find anything

Ive have repaired very similar failures twice with new hi limit and reterminating, but both times its been a Samsung . I usually use something like non insulated generic female crimp connector. Typical sizes seem easy to source but alot of terminals you buy from amazon ( Ive tried plenty) dont seem high quality. Im specifically talking about non insulated quick disconnects. Im wondering what you use specifically because your work is top notch. (I'm sure you're sick of hearing about it) I have a hasstronica crimper w/interchangeable dyes and klien manual dyke style crimper. I have all kinds of butt splices and nylon/ heatshrink / heavy duty tape wraped paper clips that ive used to jump switches and repair wires but when i really try to finesse my splicing game ive been dissatisfied. Especially with smaller gauge wire. My recent dilemma was on an LG dishwasher circulation pump that had burned out its quick connect plug so badly that when i disconnected it, I destroyed the molex. Looking closely at the female terminations i noticed they looked like a common size. I attached a photo of what i did but the stranded wiring seemed to be thin and my crimping tool provided an ok connection that i had to reinforce with my manual klien tool. This has stood the test of time so far but for such an obvious repair im asking do you have speciality terminals you use past a common size or do you recommend replacing actual harness ?