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I wanted to highlight a recent topic in the Appliantolgoy forums because it showcases a few good teaching points -- and because it had some fun pictures. Here's the initial setup that the OP gave in his post about an electric dryer: There's a very important tidbit in there: someone other than the tech did work on this previously. Maybe another tech, maybe the customer -- we don't know. We'll circle back to why that's so important. The OP continued: So, over the course of 4 weeks, both wires to the heating element burnt up. What could be the cause? Here are the fun pictures of the scenario, as promised. The burnt up wires are circled to make them easier to spot. So, what would cause wires to just burn themselves up like this? Well, as some of the many astute techs here at Appliantology pointed out in that forum topic, this was certainly caused by loose connections. Seems that whoever replaced the heater beforehand didn't make sure everything was a tight fit. But why would loose connections lead to burnt wires? Loose connections add electrical resistance to the circuit. Effectively, it becomes a load in the circuit. To demonstrate this, here's the schematic for this dryer with the loose connection drawn in orange. So the loose connection is a load in series with the heater. That means some of the circuit's voltage will be dropped across the loose connection rather than the heater. Voltage drop means that there will be some power output from this loose connection -- that's watts in the form of heat. Just how many watts are we talking here? That depends on the resistance of the loose connection. Let's say it's 0.1 ohms -- a tenth of an ohm. Running some Ohm's law calculations for this 240 VAC circuit, that gives us 56 watts. That's a lot of heat for a section of wire! Just think of how hot a 60 watt incandescent light bulb can get -- and that's a load that's designed to shed as much wattage as possible as light instead of heat. And if the resistance is higher -- even just 1 ohm? Now we're looking at 476 watts. That'll burn up a wire. So, two takeaways here: If someone has worked on the appliance before you, check any part of the machine they could have possibly touched. Because once you make a repair, it's now your problem. The tech in our forum post could have avoided a callback if he had checked how tight the other wire on the heater was. Loose connections are bad news. They're unintended loads in series, and especially in high voltage circuits, they can get very hot very quickly. Want to get in on the action? Join the Brotherhood of Techs at Appliantology. Appliantology.org is a cultivated, private community of techs. Get solid tech advice from working, professional techs and business owners. Avoid the endless noise and guesswork thrown at you from groups on social media. Download the service manuals, tech sheets, and service bulletins you need to git 'er done. Join the Brethren in the Craft right now with our membership options at Appliantology and see how it can help you in your business starting today.

Here's a video of the problem. Also, I checked and confirmed functionality of the moisture sensor in addition to what I listed above.

A mystery O-ring seems to have appeared inside my dishwasher tub. The model of the dishwasher is a Frigidaire a10797601. The outer diameter of the ring (including the thickness of the rubber itself) is about 2.25". I don't think it's from a bottle or anything like that. I also don't think it's the rear O-ring, as I've heard the motor is closed behind the tub (?) Thanks for any input!

Like how long is it taking? Were the element and thermostat actually bad? What thermostat was replaced? The high limit/thermal safety or the main cycling thermostat on the blower housing? There are a number of things that can cause a long dry complaint but the most common is typically a venting issue (airflow restriction). How long is the vent and what material? Solid duct, flex? Lots of elbows? Is the venting crimped or smashed off behind the dryer? Is the termination hood on the outside of the residence opening up all the way and clear of lint blockage? Can you run a load with the vent unhooked from the rear the dryer? If it dries ok with the vent unhooked then the venting is the issue. Also, check the duct chute from inside the dryer. Pull the fitter out and if you can see a build up of lint on the other side of the holes (from inside the dryer where the filter normally is) then that could be clogged up. If it still had a vent restriction and was run again, it could have worked once then stopped heating due to a blown safety limit or could be cycling on the high limit stat. You could also have an electrical issue with the receptacle or power or a different issue with the dryer. Have you tried a timed dry cycle vs an auto cycle? Does one work and one doesn't? Venting is the #1 suspect but if the venting is all clear and good then you'll need another service call on the dryer. Could be a number of different things

Hi everyone! Neat site you have here. I have a NS-FDRE67WH8A electric dryer, I've only had it for two years after replacing a trusty, old kenmore washer and dryer I bought 15 years ago as an Airman for $100 because my "wife wanted new ones." Anyways, it has this issue where when you press the start/stop button, it will run for a few seconds, then turn off. Pressing the start button again, it makes an audible click, which sounds like a relay clicking, which I assume to be some sort of safety switch. I've taken it apart and tried diagnosing it, but everything I've done has passed. The sound originates from the left side of the dryer, probably where the motor is at. These are the diagnosis steps I have taken so far. 1. Checked voltage at outlet. It is 240-250 volts AC. 2. I disassembled the rear panel and vents, and inspected for any type of obstruction, and cleaned any lint dirt/dust. 3. I checked all three thermostats and the thermistor. The thermostats all showed very low resistance. The heat switch in the exhaust air channel switched off when heat from a heat gun was applied. 4. Checked continuity of heater coils..... all good (20 ohms). 5. Checked belt switch. It functioned as it should. 4 ohms at open and infinity when I clicked the switch. 6. Checked belt for tightness/alignment, seemed good. 7. Inspected blower impeller for obstructions. None. 8. Dryer presents no error codes. In the troubleshooting guide in the manual, it states the actions to take for "Motor runs a few minutes then stops" are the following: ● Lint buildup around drive motor. ● Low voltage present. ● Blower impeller blocked in blower housing. ● Drive motor – start switch contacts stuck closed. The last one I'm not sure what it means. Is the start switch located within the motor unit? I couldn't find the part referenced elsewhere in the manual. Is it talking about the push button on the control board? I'm kind of at my wits end. I suspect either an issue with the motor assembly, the control panel/board, or there is one thermal breaker I couldn't find initially on the exit right behind the lint filter. I've read something about a centrifugal switch as well, which I assume is part of the motor assembly as I can't find the part online on it's own. I don't want to spend a whole lot as these are inexpensive units, and had I researched better (or known how to research) I would have bought different ones. But I have these. I was hoping there'd be something easy, me as a layman was overlooking before I went through the effort of tearing it apart and fired the parts cannon at it.

Dryer took a long time to dry a load. Tech replaced thermostat and heater coil under warranty. Worked once. Still takes a long time to dry. Checked the vents for lint, as well. Any ideas? Thanks

Thank you very much! Has anyone ever replaced the fill valve assembly before? Do you have to unstack the washer on top to work on these units?

Also. LED temp is still showing -2, even though Taylor thermometer reading almost 20. Put in new water for ice cubes…starting to freeze, but I guess under 32 would freeze. i guess LED readings are not accurate anyway?

Those would be too big but I use the knipex angled needle nose pliers for those. The hoses are still a pain though.

Jason, not sure what ‘units’ you mean, but now this… Ok. The first day after cleaning everything out of freezer, freezer temp was a steady 0. Froze ice. One frozen item still frozen. This morning, temperature in freezer is 20 degrees. This Fridge is 10 years old. In the beginning, there were 2 major repairs bevause of manufacturing glitch. No issues since 2nd fix. Service call will be $200 plus any parts. No warranty. New comparable LG fridge, base price $1200. Seems like it needs a new vent door, defroster or something, but who knows? Is it worth it to fix? Or just buy new? Don’t know anything about LG, but other 2 options worse! Thanks.

Check for DC voltage on the 3 pin connector going to user interface. If it's steady while glitching you need a new user interface. If not you have a loading down issue on probably one of the thermistors.

Sounds like your freezer drain is partially clogged,gasket not sealing, defrost issue,or low on charge.

My pump stopped working. The pump itself checked out fine. It wasn’t getting power though. I checked the circuit board and it looked fine. A close inspection of the wire to the pump revealed the wire had been cut. The shock absorbers are worn and the drum had flexed so much it struck the wire. I fixed the wire and all is good except now I need to find some new shock absorbers!

Manufacturer: GE Type of Appliance: Oven microwave electric Model Number: ZTDX1FPSN1SS Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes

THANKS!!!!

Thanks, Vance! Approved.

Approved -- thanks, Vance!

Samsung RF29D*, RF23D* Refrigerator Service and Training Manuals View File Service and training manuals for rf29d*, rf23d* Submitter Vance R Submitted 07/03/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Kenmore LG 5197*, 5199* Washer Service Manual and When replacing Stator if damaged Service Bulletin View File SVC Bulletin PUB DFZ202200058 Submitter Vance R Submitted 07/03/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Are the RFID boards prone to failure on these? Hate to start throwing parts at it but really want the ice maker back!

Uploaded service and training manuals pending approval:

This one had a strange file name for the service manual. Uploaded service manual and only service bulletin pending approval:

Well I kinda feel obligated since you know you and the rest of Samurai team knows my status on the site that's lasted well over the appreciation I received around that time. I'm very great ful to help as much as I can. Besides I guarantee that a lot of companies in the world should be paying you and your team for keeping this trade not littered with pcms. Shoot some companies use this site and your training as a requirement and guarantee they see yours as the cream of the crop. I just wish that all the people I've told about this site would actually care and at the very least check it out so they see what they're missing out on. I'd be lost if it wasn't for this site and most likely not even be doing this job if wasn't for Appliantology. Not trying to beat a horse to death with compliments but you and your family is probably the only people in the world I would be what other people consider star struck if saw any of you out in public. That's facts. Probably making some people cringe about saying that but it's true. Thanks for all you do!!!!!!!