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Uploading wiring diagram and waiting on approval:

Here you go:

Manufacturer: Empava Type of Appliance: Cooktop Model Number: EMPV-36GC23 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Need service manual for EMPV-36GC23, if possible

Manufacturer: kenmore Type of Appliance: refrigerator Model Number: 111.75035120 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes tech sheet needed

Manufacturer: Electrolux Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: EI27BS16JS6 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes

Manufacturer: Whirlpool Type of Appliance: Dryer Model Number: WGD5000DW2 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Need service manual for WGD5000DW2, Thanks!

Uses this service guide:

Try this one:

Manufacturer: LG Type of Appliance: Top Load Washing Machine Model Number: WT7405CW/00 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I need to remove the tub Captain.There might be more number at the end of the model number. Thanks Cap!

thanks a lot

Seems to be too old to pull up a wiring diagram. Tech sheet was 941869 though!

Manufacturer: kenmore Type of Appliance: freezer Model Number: 1068332070 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes Need a wiring diagram, thanks in advance

Im in Albuquerque. Come by anytime

Thanks for your help!

Here you go:

Manufacturer: ge Type of Appliance: refrigerator Model Number: gse25hshehss Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes tech sheet needec

Thank you!

Thank you brother Sam, very good topic to remind ourselves.

I wanted to highlight a recent topic in the Appliantolgoy forums because it showcases a few good teaching points -- and because it had some fun pictures. Here's the initial setup that the OP gave in his post about an electric dryer: There's a very important tidbit in there: someone other than the tech did work on this previously. Maybe another tech, maybe the customer -- we don't know. We'll circle back to why that's so important. The OP continued: So, over the course of 4 weeks, both wires to the heating element burnt up. What could be the cause? Here are the fun pictures of the scenario, as promised. The burnt up wires are circled to make them easier to spot. So, what would cause wires to just burn themselves up like this? Well, as some of the many astute techs here at Appliantology pointed out in that forum topic, this was certainly caused by loose connections. Seems that whoever replaced the heater beforehand didn't make sure everything was a tight fit. But why would loose connections lead to burnt wires? Loose connections add electrical resistance to the circuit. Effectively, it becomes a load in the circuit. To demonstrate this, here's the schematic for this dryer with the loose connection drawn in orange. So the loose connection is a load in series with the heater. That means some of the circuit's voltage will be dropped across the loose connection rather than the heater. Voltage drop means that there will be some power output from this loose connection -- that's watts in the form of heat. Just how many watts are we talking here? That depends on the resistance of the loose connection. Let's say it's 0.1 ohms -- a tenth of an ohm. Running some Ohm's law calculations for this 240 VAC circuit, that gives us 56 watts. That's a lot of heat for a section of wire! Just think of how hot a 60 watt incandescent light bulb can get -- and that's a load that's designed to shed as much wattage as possible as light instead of heat. And if the resistance is higher -- even just 1 ohm? Now we're looking at 476 watts. That'll burn up a wire. So, two takeaways here: If someone has worked on the appliance before you, check any part of the machine they could have possibly touched. Because once you make a repair, it's now your problem. The tech in our forum post could have avoided a callback if he had checked how tight the other wire on the heater was. Loose connections are bad news. They're unintended loads in series, and especially in high voltage circuits, they can get very hot very quickly. Want to get in on the action? Join the Brotherhood of Techs at Appliantology. Appliantology.org is a cultivated, private community of techs. Get solid tech advice from working, professional techs and business owners. Avoid the endless noise and guesswork thrown at you from groups on social media. Download the service manuals, tech sheets, and service bulletins you need to git 'er done. Join the Brethren in the Craft right now with our membership options at Appliantology and see how it can help you in your business starting today.

Here's a video of the problem. Also, I checked and confirmed functionality of the moisture sensor in addition to what I listed above.

A mystery O-ring seems to have appeared inside my dishwasher tub. The model of the dishwasher is a Frigidaire a10797601. The outer diameter of the ring (including the thickness of the rubber itself) is about 2.25". I don't think it's from a bottle or anything like that. I also don't think it's the rear O-ring, as I've heard the motor is closed behind the tub (?) Thanks for any input!

Like how long is it taking? Were the element and thermostat actually bad? What thermostat was replaced? The high limit/thermal safety or the main cycling thermostat on the blower housing? There are a number of things that can cause a long dry complaint but the most common is typically a venting issue (airflow restriction). How long is the vent and what material? Solid duct, flex? Lots of elbows? Is the venting crimped or smashed off behind the dryer? Is the termination hood on the outside of the residence opening up all the way and clear of lint blockage? Can you run a load with the vent unhooked from the rear the dryer? If it dries ok with the vent unhooked then the venting is the issue. Also, check the duct chute from inside the dryer. Pull the fitter out and if you can see a build up of lint on the other side of the holes (from inside the dryer where the filter normally is) then that could be clogged up. If it still had a vent restriction and was run again, it could have worked once then stopped heating due to a blown safety limit or could be cycling on the high limit stat. You could also have an electrical issue with the receptacle or power or a different issue with the dryer. Have you tried a timed dry cycle vs an auto cycle? Does one work and one doesn't? Venting is the #1 suspect but if the venting is all clear and good then you'll need another service call on the dryer. Could be a number of different things

Hi everyone! Neat site you have here. I have a NS-FDRE67WH8A electric dryer, I've only had it for two years after replacing a trusty, old kenmore washer and dryer I bought 15 years ago as an Airman for $100 because my "wife wanted new ones." Anyways, it has this issue where when you press the start/stop button, it will run for a few seconds, then turn off. Pressing the start button again, it makes an audible click, which sounds like a relay clicking, which I assume to be some sort of safety switch. I've taken it apart and tried diagnosing it, but everything I've done has passed. The sound originates from the left side of the dryer, probably where the motor is at. These are the diagnosis steps I have taken so far. 1. Checked voltage at outlet. It is 240-250 volts AC. 2. I disassembled the rear panel and vents, and inspected for any type of obstruction, and cleaned any lint dirt/dust. 3. I checked all three thermostats and the thermistor. The thermostats all showed very low resistance. The heat switch in the exhaust air channel switched off when heat from a heat gun was applied. 4. Checked continuity of heater coils..... all good (20 ohms). 5. Checked belt switch. It functioned as it should. 4 ohms at open and infinity when I clicked the switch. 6. Checked belt for tightness/alignment, seemed good. 7. Inspected blower impeller for obstructions. None. 8. Dryer presents no error codes. In the troubleshooting guide in the manual, it states the actions to take for "Motor runs a few minutes then stops" are the following: ● Lint buildup around drive motor. ● Low voltage present. ● Blower impeller blocked in blower housing. ● Drive motor – start switch contacts stuck closed. The last one I'm not sure what it means. Is the start switch located within the motor unit? I couldn't find the part referenced elsewhere in the manual. Is it talking about the push button on the control board? I'm kind of at my wits end. I suspect either an issue with the motor assembly, the control panel/board, or there is one thermal breaker I couldn't find initially on the exit right behind the lint filter. I've read something about a centrifugal switch as well, which I assume is part of the motor assembly as I can't find the part online on it's own. I don't want to spend a whole lot as these are inexpensive units, and had I researched better (or known how to research) I would have bought different ones. But I have these. I was hoping there'd be something easy, me as a layman was overlooking before I went through the effort of tearing it apart and fired the parts cannon at it.