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Extra info. The overload compressor protector part did not have markings for where the orange and other wire go. I tried both ways but compressor seemed to run in either configuration. also the OCP was an aftermarket and not the GE one that came today, but both look the same.

I ran the diagnostic tests and got a 0010, 00lo, 022d, 0303, 0304. I can only see the explanation for the first one on my mini tech sheet- FZ ice maker thermistor out of range but it has a door icemaker. I ran the fan tests and got slight fluctuating on all with the following FF fan =3500, FZ=2580, Condensor=1340, Ice box=2266, Deli=4033. Did test 95 FF cooling test and got 52 on left display and 58,74,98,90 on right display. heard only clicking but did not hear compressor come on. (It does come on under normal operations) could that be a capacitor issue? Did test 96 FZ cooling test got 69 and 14,52,33,14,91. Also heard clicking but compressor did not start. Tried water valve tests butblibe not hooked up and I heard a click/hum but cancelled test when no display was showing. Anything else to try. After running 15 minutes, compressor is running, evaporator is chilled but no evap fan is running. Freezer section no activity.

Cooling was on and off. One day normal, next day freezer 32, FF mid 50's. Frost pattern on coils normal. Tech said replace control board. Fridge is 15 years old. New control board did not fix the up and down temps. 2nd tech visit (same tech) tested compressor pressure. He showed me the gauge which showed less than 0. Also, only the bottom half of the coils were frosted up this time. Said I have a refrigerant leak and not worth fixing. That was 2 days ago. I ordered new fridge yesterday,(Frigidaire). Since then the fridge compressor and condenser fan has been running almost continuously. Evap Fan has been off. Temps a few min ago Freezer bottom: -13° F (yup -13) Freezer top: 40° F FF bottom: 30° / FF top: mid 50's Again the Evap Fan (freezer fan) has NOT been running at all. This tells me that there's a problem with the Evap fan and not a refrigerant leak. I haven't looked at the coils today but I'm wondering why the bottom half would be frosted up and not defrosted. Could the failure of the Evap fan affect the defrost and is my thinking correct that there is no refrigerant leak? Thanks

Well, it took me a minute to actually throw the prototype pliers in my toolbag and then remember to actually try them out, but I finally did... Video linked below. tl;dw... Not bad! For larger size clamps, seem to be exactly as suitable as std KP-2s, and much better mechanical action

Check to make sure the condenser fan motor in the back by the compressor is working - It very well could have been under water also and be frozen up. Also check to make sure the evaporator fan is working - probably is since you say the refrigerator section is getting a little cooling.

Take a look at the defrost circuit on this Whirlpool refrigerator: Looks pretty standard -- there's just a defrost heater and a defrost terminator in the circuit, and voltage is supplied to the circuit by the control board. But what is the purpose of the wire marked in green that tags off to J1-3? If you look closely, you'll see that that pin on the control is labeled D-SENSE -- so that's a sensing line. This means that the purpose of that wire is to give the control board information about a circuit. In this particular case, it lets the control board sense the state of the defrost terminator. How does that actually work? Well, if the defrost terminator is closed, Line voltage will be present at J1-3, like so: But when the terminator is open, Neutral is instead present at J1-3, like so: This is how the control board's adaptive defrost algorithm gets the info it needs -- based on how long Line is present or absent at J1-3, the control is programmed to adjust the length of defrost cycles. It's useful for our troubleshooting purposes to know how the control board thinks, but the presence of this sensing line is also useful for our own troubleshooting purposes. Because the sensing line is there, we are able to perform an electrical measurement on the defrost terminator without disassembling to reach the defrost circuit. Having put the unit into forced defrost, we can perform a measurement with our loading voltmeter like so: If the defrost terminator is closed, as shown, then we would read 0 VAC on our meter, since we're reading from Line to Line. If the terminator were open, like so... ...then we would read 120 VAC, since we're now reading from Line to Neutral. There's even more that this sensing line lets us do right from the control board. Because the line splits the defrost circuit in half, we can use it to check if that heater has gone open with another voltage measurement. This time, we won't place the unit in forced defrost. Instead, we're going to use the control board's line supply as a reference to check for the presence of a good Neutral at J1-3, like so: Because we're using a loading meter, we will only read voltage between these two points if the heater has continuity. If you get 0 VAC, then you know you have an open heater. All of these clever tests are not just so we can feel smart -- it actually saves time (and therefore money) on the job. The less disassembly you have to do, the more jobs you can get done and the less liability you have to take on. Work smarter, not harder! Want to get in on the action? Join the Brotherhood of Techs at Appliantology. Appliantology.org is a cultivated, private community of techs. Get solid tech advice from working, professional techs and business owners. Avoid the endless noise and guesswork thrown at you from groups on social media. Download the service manuals, tech sheets, and service bulletins you need to git 'er done. Join the Brethren in the Craft right now with our membership options at Appliantology and see how it can help you in your business starting today.

Uses these docs:

Manufacturer: Thermador Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: T36BT820ns/03 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I’m looking for service manuals on the website, but I’m having trouble finding the ice maker test ‘IWS’ in the service mode. I’m assuming it might be different for this model. Thank you.

Thank you!

Have a GYE22HMKBES GE french door refrigerator that was in about 5 inches of water while powered. After drying out, refrig powered up but compressor just kept clicking for days ( did not own house at that point) Replaced compressor overload protector which is where water level rose to. Kept same capacitor. Compressor now comes on and stays on as refrig gets kind of cool after two hours but freezer not a blip. Compressor is very warm to hot. Entered tech mode and tested a few items but not sure what im looking for. Wondering if motherboard is at fault since it was powered when hurricane happened. Thanks for any help. Hate to toss a $2000 refrigerator.

This is the closest one I found:

Whirlpool YLER764 Dryer Tech Sheet View File PUB 8528191 Submitter Son of Samurai Submitted 05/28/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Domo, Captain!

Electrolux ECCI3668AS Cooktop Service Data Sheet View File Pub Service Data Sheet A00498610 Pub Parts List 5995725677 Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 05/28/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Uploading tech sheet, parts list and waiting on approval:

Manufacturer: Electrolux Type of Appliance: Cooktop Model Number: ECCI3668AS Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I am in need of a tech sheet or service manual for this cooktop. Thank you.

Not coming up with a wiring diagram for you on this one!

Thanks. There is a 15-pin ribbon cable between the touchpad and the main control board. So when you say "three wires" I'm not sure we are talking about the same parts. And the only display are the lights on the buttons plus the Washing/Drying/Sanitized/Clean indicators.

Manufacturer: Whirlpool Type of Appliance: DRYER Model Number: YLER7647EQ2 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): YES Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): YES Thanks

That's what I'm wondering.

Displays on these usually go bad from water infiltration. Have to check for 14 volts between the three wires going to the display while it's acting up.

You guys are awesome!!