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A slow-heating oven like your GE Profile JB910B LGSS often points to a failing or partially working bake element—even if it's hidden and still producing some heat. Since it eventually reaches temperature but takes unusually long, the element may be damaged or not getting full voltage due to a weak relay, faulty sensor, or control board issue. That spark from the food spill near the convection fan could have caused shorting or internal damage. Start by checking the bake element continuity with a multimeter (you’ll likely need to pull the oven out and access it from the back panel). If the element tests fine, the temperature sensor or control board may be the culprit. A full visual inspection behind the rear panel should reveal any obvious damage or disconnected wiring.

Uses this bundle: And this schematic:

Only see this one:

Check this video similar to your Range. Also, I see attached exploded view of parts. But please double-check as this is for the closest model number match. Check 4 parts mentioned below for this issue: 1) Bake Element 2) Broil Element 3) Oven Temperature Sensor 4) Oven Control Board

Manufacturer: Fisher&Paykel Type of Appliance: Dishwasher Model Number: DD24DDFX7 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Hello, Looking for the Service Manual for the DD24DDFX7 Fisher&Paykel dishwasher. The closest manual I found here doesn’t match the UI of my model. (mine has only 3 buttons and no display) Thank you!!!

These harnesses go bad too. The thermal fuse cuts out. I have also seen a few with evap thermistors showing 50 degrees while buried in ice. I have found in these SxS units that they will sometimes seem to default to timed defrost if the thermistor is unplugged. I have also seen the backed out connector on these and given my experience with them I typically quote the harness and the thermistor regardless of which of those 3 failures occurred because the harness and the thermistor have updated part numbers.

Thank you for updating, the more information the better! I have repaired two of this model now, both were not defrosting. One was electronic board, the other was a loose wire in the harness just above the evaporator. Give all the plugs and connectors a gentle tug. I have a feeling we will start to see many more of these.

Manufacturer: BOSCH Type of Appliance: DRYER Model Number: WTG86402UC/01 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): YES Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): YES Thanks for any help, much appreciated.

Domo, Captain!

GE GTX18GSSJ1WW Dryer Mini Manual View File Pub 31-16293 Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 05/26/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Uploading mini manual and waiting on approval:

@SVeig The coupling that is stripped out is in the top of your agitator. You have to cut the circle of plastic out in the top so that you can drive what is left of the agitator coupling out of the agitator and clean any remaining rubber out of the spline slots in the agitator. All the parts that are still on the transmission look to be OK and the transmission agitator splines look in good shape. To install the new coupling you would put it onto the agitator shaft of the transmission, soap up the rubber splines and drive the agitator back onto the new coupling.

Sorry for the late response here, hope you see this. I replaced my thermistor (the one near the evap fan motor on April 10th, so far, so good. I did not zip-tie the thermistor directly to the coil like others have suggested. I STILL haven't put all the shelves back yet because they were a pita to remove, but so far so good and no ice buildup. Here is a link to the part I purchased: https://a.co/d/aUt1Elq oh one more thing to note! I actually moved the thermistor over a tad from where it was, it was closer to the rounded turn of the coil, I moved it so it was more on the straight part of the coil, I was hoping it just wasn't making a good connection in addition to being bad. Anyway, I apparently don't have a picture of the new one on in the new spot, but I tried to highlight it in a box there for you. Hope it helps!

Manufacturer: GE Type of Appliance: Dryer Model Number: GTX18GSSJ1WW Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes cant find anything

Ive have repaired very similar failures twice with new hi limit and reterminating, but both times its been a Samsung . I usually use something like non insulated generic female crimp connector. Typical sizes seem easy to source but alot of terminals you buy from amazon ( Ive tried plenty) dont seem high quality. Im specifically talking about non insulated quick disconnects. Im wondering what you use specifically because your work is top notch. (I'm sure you're sick of hearing about it) I have a hasstronica crimper w/interchangeable dyes and klien manual dyke style crimper. I have all kinds of butt splices and nylon/ heatshrink / heavy duty tape wraped paper clips that ive used to jump switches and repair wires but when i really try to finesse my splicing game ive been dissatisfied. Especially with smaller gauge wire. My recent dilemma was on an LG dishwasher circulation pump that had burned out its quick connect plug so badly that when i disconnected it, I destroyed the molex. Looking closely at the female terminations i noticed they looked like a common size. I attached a photo of what i did but the stranded wiring seemed to be thin and my crimping tool provided an ok connection that i had to reinforce with my manual klien tool. This has stood the test of time so far but for such an obvious repair im asking do you have speciality terminals you use past a common size or do you recommend replacing actual harness ?

My GE Profile Electric Range model JB910B LGSS recently started heating the oven VERY slowly. It seems to reach temperature (at least to 400 degrees) but takes nearly 1 hr. There may have been some food that spilled into the convection fan in the back, causing a spark. Any advice most welcome. The element is not visible so any links to access the element also most appreciated. Didn't want to replace the element if it might be something else, considering it does heat up - just VERY slowly now.

It was purchased new. The burner flames on low seem fine. On high they are above the grate slightly. The oven also seems to run very hot. If the regulator is not working properly (for example allowing too much gas), does it stop the oven from holding the set temperature and cause it to run hot?

Additional information: The natural gas pressure coming into the house measures 7.5, the pressure at the burner is 6, originally and after replacing the regulator.

How high are the flames on your burner? at highest and lowest setting, without any pots or pans... You are correct in that, if any of the equipment was set up for LP but you're running NG then the flame would be tiny. Did you buy this range brand new, or was it perhaps used/reconditioned etc?

Captain Dundee THANK YOU for the link!!! I’ll search it for an Assister / Agitator Assembly. As I replied to Citizen X, I am more confident that the (plastic?) female splines in the top of the Assister / Agitator must be stripped. Since the top of the Assister / Agitator has a removable cap, I would think there would be access to replace such female spline coupler, but it doesn’t seem so.

Citizen X, Yes there is a spine coupler on the top of the transmission shaft. Without the Assister / Agitator on it he splines / shaft does turn normally although it does seem to advance the rotation a bit slower than expected. Has enough power that I can not hold it from turning, but think I can hold it to keep it from advancing. There is a bushing or coupler below the splines on the shaft that I can hold and prevent from turning with the splines, but I do not that is an issue and I don’t know how to take it off as it seems to be pressed on. I think you’re correct that the female Assister / Agitator splines must be stripped and along with the broken plastic ring must be the issue. There is a removable plastic cap on top of the Assister / Agitator that I would think would allow replacement of the female splines, but I don’t think it does. Not sure what the purpose of the cap would be though.

THANK YOU Budget Appliance Repair!!! The model / serial number tag just where you said to look. Guess I was too blind to see it the first time. It is indeed as GE Model 1WA 952B9 W S/N MB128 235.

GE Washer Personality Program Procedure WH22X38697 Part Install Instructions View File Pub 99-3000290 Rev 2 Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 05/24/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

GE Parts WH22X34917, WH22X34918, WH22X34919, WH22X34920Install Instructions User Interface Board and Software Update Module View File Pub 99-3000317 Overview – This SUM module may be used on front load washer models, listed below, when the User Interface Board needs to be replaced. NOTE: Do not install new User Interface board from service kit until the washer machine control software has been updated using the Software Update Module (SUM). Models: GFW510SCNOWW GFW650SSNOWW PFW950SPT1DS GFW510SCN1WW GFW650SSN1WW GFW510SCN2WW GFW650SSN2WW GFW550SPNODG GFW850SPNODG GFW550SPN1DG GFW850SPNORS GFW550SPN2DG GFW850SPN1DG GFW550SSNOWW GFW850SPN1RS GFW550SSN1WW GFW850SPN2DG GFW550SSN2WW GFW850SPN2RS GFW650SPNOSN GFW850SSNOWW GFW650SPN1SN GFW850SSN1WW GFW650SPN2SN GFW850SSN2WW Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 05/24/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper