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It was purchased new. The burner flames on low seem fine. On high they are above the grate slightly. The oven also seems to run very hot. If the regulator is not working properly (for example allowing too much gas), does it stop the oven from holding the set temperature and cause it to run hot?

Additional information: The natural gas pressure coming into the house measures 7.5, the pressure at the burner is 6, originally and after replacing the regulator.

How high are the flames on your burner? at highest and lowest setting, without any pots or pans... You are correct in that, if any of the equipment was set up for LP but you're running NG then the flame would be tiny. Did you buy this range brand new, or was it perhaps used/reconditioned etc?

Captain Dundee THANK YOU for the link!!! I’ll search it for an Assister / Agitator Assembly. As I replied to Citizen X, I am more confident that the (plastic?) female splines in the top of the Assister / Agitator must be stripped. Since the top of the Assister / Agitator has a removable cap, I would think there would be access to replace such female spline coupler, but it doesn’t seem so.

Citizen X, Yes there is a spine coupler on the top of the transmission shaft. Without the Assister / Agitator on it he splines / shaft does turn normally although it does seem to advance the rotation a bit slower than expected. Has enough power that I can not hold it from turning, but think I can hold it to keep it from advancing. There is a bushing or coupler below the splines on the shaft that I can hold and prevent from turning with the splines, but I do not that is an issue and I don’t know how to take it off as it seems to be pressed on. I think you’re correct that the female Assister / Agitator splines must be stripped and along with the broken plastic ring must be the issue. There is a removable plastic cap on top of the Assister / Agitator that I would think would allow replacement of the female splines, but I don’t think it does. Not sure what the purpose of the cap would be though.

THANK YOU Budget Appliance Repair!!! The model / serial number tag just where you said to look. Guess I was too blind to see it the first time. It is indeed as GE Model 1WA 952B9 W S/N MB128 235.

GE Washer Personality Program Procedure WH22X38697 Part Install Instructions View File Pub 99-3000290 Rev 2 Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 05/24/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

GE Parts WH22X34917, WH22X34918, WH22X34919, WH22X34920Install Instructions User Interface Board and Software Update Module View File Pub 99-3000317 Overview – This SUM module may be used on front load washer models, listed below, when the User Interface Board needs to be replaced. NOTE: Do not install new User Interface board from service kit until the washer machine control software has been updated using the Software Update Module (SUM). Models: GFW510SCNOWW GFW650SSNOWW PFW950SPT1DS GFW510SCN1WW GFW650SSN1WW GFW510SCN2WW GFW650SSN2WW GFW550SPNODG GFW850SPNODG GFW550SPN1DG GFW850SPNORS GFW550SPN2DG GFW850SPN1DG GFW550SSNOWW GFW850SPN1RS GFW550SSN1WW GFW850SPN2DG GFW550SSN2WW GFW850SPN2RS GFW650SPNOSN GFW850SSNOWW GFW650SPN1SN GFW850SSN1WW GFW650SPN2SN GFW850SSN2WW Submitter Captain Dunsel Submitted 05/24/2025 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

I would love to see the end product when you get it done. I have a vise grip set with the same ends on it that I bought at Marcone years ago but the pliers are small and take a lot of grip strength to squeeze. As the arthritis sets in, it has become harder to use the pliers. Hopefully, what you come up will be a great clamp.

Our KitchenAid dishwasher (KUDE70FVSS1) user interface is very sporadic. Often times the CANCEL light is the only button that will light up. Then magically it appears normal. If I take advantage of when it appears to be working my 1 Hour Wash cycle goes pretty well but then the START/RESUME light will blink forever towards the end of the cycle. (The dishes seem clean.) If I press RESUME and shut the door the light continues to blink. I started off by replacing the Control Board (with a used one) but symptoms persist. The touchpad (WPW10056368. W10056368, W10056365) is no longer available and I have not found any used ones. Before replacing this 15 year old DW I thought I'd see if anyone here had any suggestions. Thanks! Bob North Carolina

I purchased a new Samsung NX60A6751SS and the burner flames are way too high, to the point that it destroys pans. An appliance technician came out and the measured the gas pressure and it was too high (I run natural gas, not LP). He said that it was the regulator (DG94-03445C, I believe) and that he could order one, but that he would not be surprised if the new part would also be bad, because Samsung probably produced a batch of bad regulators he said. Sure enough, when the new part from Samsung arrived and was installed, nothing changed, the gas pressure is still too high and the technician says that it can not be anything else but the regulator. He did not offer to send the part back and charged me for the install, saying that there was nothing else he could do. Now I am thinking of scrapping the stove. Is this something that happens? A new stove comes with a bad regulator, then the replacement regulator is also bad? Or is there something else that could be causing this problem? No one changed any nozzles or reversed the fitting on the regulator. From what I read it ships set up for natural gas and even if it had the lp nozzles, the burner flames should be lower if you supply natural gas to the lp nozzles, not higher. The gas pressure to the house was checked and it was normal and the old stove always worked fine. Any ideas? Thanks.

It's the cord. Alot of them have cords that were built incorrectly. I have found several . From 550 to 850 series. They work for several years and than exhibit wierd symptoms.

That is some real troubleshooting in action. Shows the troubleshooting insight to be had from reviewing the schematic instead of poking around blindly hoping to get lucky. Luck doesn't get stuff fixed. But systematic troubleshooting using the schematic does. Great post, @Koi Guy!

Thank you for the line drawing of L2 to neutral series ckt. It really helped me to see the serial ckt.

My dishwasher tells me the lower sprayarm is being blocked. The magnet is still there so I think the sensor is broken, but I don't know where to find it and how to open the dishwasher properly.

Unfortunately not @Son of Samurai, I used to have some limited access and get docs emailed from Bluestar when I worked for an ASC for them (Appliance Hospital), but I've been an independent for ~2 years now. I don't recall seeing much Bluestar refrigeration, mostly ranges and wall/speed ovens. Pretty sure I remember that Bluestar is a brand of the "Prizer Printer Stove Works", or somesuch; makes me wonder if they're co-mfging or white-labelling someone else's built-in fridges, and if that mfg's service manual might give decent info. Not sure how this is useful I do have a number in my phone for "Miles - Bluestar Tech Support / Field Tech" at (610) 944-4369 , but that might be pretty stale, it's been maybe 5 years since I saw too much Bluestar or had reason to talk to him. He used to be pretty helpful and knowledgeable, though

No need to patent. KP-Tau quality and function can't be immitated.

This is a "box style" dryer- you know, it matches the front load washer. The complaint on my work order was "Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Now not working at all." I'm going in thinking a motor over-heating, maybe a motor relay on the mudderboard. Arrive to find the young lady and her newborn. She says, "My husband took it apart and can't figure it out. He thought it was a loose connection and it kinda worked for a little bit, but not really. And now it doesn't work at all." Yay me. Open the garage door to a machine that is 50% disassembled. Console off, lid off, front off, all the screws to the rear pane offl, terminal block, water valve... I'm talking he took off stuff that made no sense to take off. The water valve? In fairness he had everything laid out nicely and organized, and all the screws were next to said parts. Soooo, do I bail, or do I dig in??? Hmmmm... nice customer, nice and clean- well air conditioned house, neighborhood that I work in often, nice kitchen appliances, and matching washer. Sure, I'll have a look. Re-assemble unit and plug 'er on in for a maiden voyage. Dead. Go to the terminal block and find that the screw and lug is stripped on the neutral. And also the L2 screw and lug is stripped" Sheesh! Could it be that easy? Go to van and get parts and get the wiriing secured. Plug 'er in..... nada.... dang it.... Well, let's start looking. Bust out the skewed-matic and my reader glasses.... Let's see, L1 to board at the J101. Any voltage there? Nope. Hmmm. I see a "High- Limit Thermostat (Fuse Type)", what the heck is that? So I start looking for that fuse. It's not at the back near the terminal block. It's anywhere that I can see. I follow the wires and they go into the cabinet. Crap.... do I have to take this thing apart after I just put it back together. Yup.... Lo and behold, I find that the aforementioned "High- Limit Thermostat (Fuse Type)" is the dang Thernal Fuse on the heat canister. Huh? First time seeing that. If that thermal fuse opens- it doesn't just kill the heater- it kills power to the board! Lights out homie! In this case, I found that a terminal on the fuse was charred and not making connection to the biimetal inside. Makes sense now... intermittent working, and finally died. New fuse and new terminal and we back in bidness! IMG_7426.mov

Glad to have found this community. We bought this refrigerator used and the icemaker is not working. Assuming the seller is honest and saying that it worked fine when they had it, I’m trying to troubleshoot. i’m curious about the little plastic flag at the back of the ice cube tray. It’s a spring loaded lever, but doesn’t come in contact with anything when I open or close the freezer drawer. I wonder if there is something missing, or what is the purpose of that plastic lever. There are no other icemaker settings on this fridge, except the mail disable button located on the door. Thank you for your help.

Very interesting! I am curious to see the tool in action? Maybe you want to patent it first?

Uses the same one as this model:

Manufacturer: Amana Type of Appliance: Dryer Model Number: NED4700YQ1 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I have checked and downloaded the service bulletin at appliantology but I can’t find a service manual. The customer says it heats but doesn’t spin so I may be able to troubleshoot without one but I never like going out without knowing if I have access to a manual. I would appreciate any help locating one. Thank you.