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  1. Past hour
  2. even though the motor shuts down after 15-20 minutes (which is common with a bad motor.) It does not necessarily mean its the motor. you have already replaced the motor so you may need to consider checking the neutral line for a bad connection at the motor wiring. You mentioned the timer still counts down after it shuts off so i would think that you may be loosing the neutral line some where after the door switch wiring and timer switch wiring possibly making an intermittent connection and then it shuts down the motor. Check the motor harness connection for a bad netral line going to it after the door switch and timer connection wiring to the motor harness also.
  3. Yesterday
  4. TheHelicopterKid

    Whirlpool Gas Dryer motor overheats and shuts-off

    Is the timer at the same position when the motor stops each time?
  5. TheHelicopterKid

    Bosch Dishwasher Error / Draining Issue?

    1) No. Either your heat pump is out or the control is bad 2) You May be caught in a cycle. Look for a button or buttons that say “cancel.”
  6. darren412

    GE GSS20IBTAWW - Not defrosting

    yeah sounds like the evaporator thermistor is bad. Not that its a concern for the defrosting cycle but The freezer and fresh food compartment thermistors are most likely the black ended ones also. Once you know the defrost cycle has been fixed. change out the other thermistors also if they are black ended . that will eliminate any future issues with those also.
  7. Thanks again for all this great info! I have had the thermistor in a glass of ice water for well over 20 minutes now and it reads 12.10 k Ohms. And it's got a black sealant. I will start with replacing that and see what happens.
  8. darren412

    GE GSS20IBTAWW - Not defrosting

    if the bi metal t-stat on the evaporator is in the ice and frost then that T-stat should be closed . the t-stat needs to be closed in order to test the defrost heater from the board. These tests are usually done right when the evaporator is encased in the frost and ice. So if you know through testing that the bi metal t-stat is closed , you then can go to the bottom of the mother board and there is a blue connection , connected to J8 , J9, and J11 on the board. J11 is the line voltage and J9 is for the defrosting cycle. Put a well insulated jumper wire from J11 to J9 and the heating element should heat up. If it doesnt then you either have a bad t-stat or a bad heater. It is a quick way of telling you the heating element and bi metal t-stat is ok and as long as the evaporator thermistor specs are good , then the mother board will be suspect. . Be aware that GE heating elements can also give false readings sometimes because the moisture gets in the glass tube element when it fails at times and then it gives you a false reading even though its a bad heating element. Doesnt happen alot but can happen when testing with a meter. not sure about the flat ended and round ended thermistors but just make sure they are the all white thermistors and if the specs are good , you should be ok. the evaporator thermistor is the one thats for the defrost cycle. the other thermistors will have nothing to do with the defrost cycle.
  9. Thanks for the super good lead. I have started to defrost the whole thing to actually see the thermistor. i did take some measurements once defrosted and I get about 6kohms on those, but I'll do the glass of ice water trick to see what I get in that situation and check for the black ended thermistors. i also remember something about a flat ended versus round ended thermistors... was that the same issue? Anyway, If they do check out ok, how do I check the defrost can indeed work? I guess that would also be important
  10. darren412

    GE GSS20IBTAWW - Not defrosting

    at the J1 connector usually its the 4th and 5th pin connection that are the evaporater thermistor pin connections. If its frozen in ice at the evaporator already , then all you need to do is pull the fridge out and un plug the J1 connector. The top and farthest connection to the right. Place the black lead in the 5th pin connection at the unplugged harness and place the red lead in the 4th pin connection at the unplugged harness. you should be reading about 16.3 K ohms (16,300 ohms) + or - 5% if your not within those specs then replace the evaporator thermistor. If the evaporator has already been defrosted. Pull the thermistor out enough to get it into a glass of ice with a small amount of water supported on top of the evaporator some how. This just keeps you from cutting out the thermistor to do this same test and then not worrying about having to splice together the thermistor wires if the thermistor is ok. Check it after 10 min. one more thing. Verify wether its good or bad first and then if you notice the wire end of the thermistor has a black sealant, then you want to replce any thermistors that are like that anyway. GE had an issue with some of those Black ended thermistors.
  11. My post should read "which pins/connectors represent the thermistors' outputs on the motherboard"
  12. Hello, I have a GE GSS20IBTAWW side-by-side fridge that is not defrosting. I disassembled the panel and found a block of ice behind the freezer back panel. I have seen this in a different fridge and had to change a thermistor which was bad. I am assuming this is a similar problem where the motherboard is reading a high temperature value and not starting the defrost cycle, but assumptions are what they are... Can anyone help me in telling me which pins/connectors represent the thermistor inputs for this fridge and what I should be reading? thanks! Ciwa
  13. Nicky

    Whirlpool icemaker 628135

    Ya, door switch working. Fridge model is WRS322FDAM04. Thx
  14. Thanks for your reply. I have not tried running it without the duct but this should not make a difference as the duct is only about 3 feet in length to reach the outdoors release. I checked it and it is clear, no obstructions. Any other ideas?
  15. Captain Dunsel

    Maytag Fridge Manual Needed

    Uses the same as this one!
  16. LG Texan

    LG LDS4821ST doesn't turn on

    I had the similar issue that arose on our LG LDS4821ST dishwasher. Just stopped working overnight. I replaced the door latch and the noise filter assembly. Two fairly inexpensive repairs, which were the two most prominent root causes. The noise filter was a "crap-shoot", because there was no way of knowing it was bad, unless you pulled the dishwasher out of it's space to access it. I figured since i had it out, I was willing to replace it either way! Replaced both and still not powering up! I checked the "fuse" on the Controller Board and it was good too. Funny thing happened! I accidentally pressed the power button while the door was open and the damn unit powered up!!! Go figure...? I pressed the power button several times and the unit powered up/down. I closed the door, thinking that somehow the unit woke up and was fixed. Nope! Back to square one again and cursing to say the least!!!! Any feedback from anyone on your issues?? MB
  17. Hello. I found some tech sheets but they do not seem to go with the model. Thanks. Phil
  18. 16345Ed

    Whirlpool icemaker 628135

    But... really should have refrigerator’s model number.
  19. 16345Ed

    Whirlpool icemaker 628135

    Door switch working? Light goes on and off?
  20. Quick

    Kenmore undercounter Ice Maker

    @Knot_enuff Water will run over the reservoir at times. This is normal. They are programed to flush from time to time. Are you sure you have the water sensor connection plugged in properly at the board? A quick check is to put it in clean mode, see if the clean LED light comes on. If the clean light does not come on the Water level sensor is disconnected. You seem to be a smart guy. Surly you have found the tech literature with your Ice Maker? Look at test 10 in diagnostics. I'd want it set 4 blinks. That would be a normal size cube setting. 6 blinks is the thickest and two blinks is the thinnest setting. Good luck with all that. 🙂
  21. 2 year old whirlpool refrigerator. Workers put a couple beers in ice bucket. They burst. Don’t think that had anything to do with failure but arm could have been forced because it never felt right. Ticker shows getting 110 volts to incoming harness. . Not sure on neutral. No jumper testing works calling for motor function or water fill but when I put 110 volts directly to motor it works. Door water is fine. Didn’t bother checking inlet valve since no jumping functions work. Anything to check before I buy new icemaker? Thank you.
  22. Last week
  23. Have you tried running it with the duct disconnected?
  24. I have a model 106.89553100 Ice Maker and I am having an issue with it overfilling the water tray. I recently replaced the control board and the water valve and it now is making ice again but it is overflowing into the bin and melting most of the ice. I looked at the area where the pump is located for a water sensor and this model does't seem to have one unless it is mounted some other place I can not see. Does anyone have any suggestion on how to regulate the water flow so it will cut off when full? Thanks for your help!!
  25. Hello, I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer model 7MSGDS800MQ1 which has the problem of shutting off after about 15 to 20 minutes of operating. I gather that it is the motor that overheats and the heat sensor safety switch is shutting down the power for protection. While the motor is off, the timer continues to run and after about 15 minutes of cooling down, the motor starts up again. I have replaced the motor with an original brand-new part and the issue is still happening. Thinking that the drum might not be spinning freely, which could be causing the motor to overheat, I have also replaced the drum rollers, the idler pulley, the belt, the blower wheel, the rear drum felt seal, the drum plastic slide (bearing ring support) and the front panel felt seal. All this made no difference. To discard the possibility of the motor getting overheated due to an excessive heat from the gas burner, I replaced the high limit thermostat and the cycling thermostat. Still, the issue is occurring. I have invested quite a bit replacing all these parts without any positive results but now its all about the challenge of fixing the darn thing! Any ideas on what to try next will be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  26. You need a new Mode Shifter. WH38X10017. Its comes with a new tub seal. It looks like the tub seal leaked. Sometimes you need to replace the Tub as well. Sometimes the new seal does not press in tight. Pick up a new belt too.
  27. Anyone had this dryer just stop after two loads are complete? Showing an error for "blower motor" and "tumble motor".
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