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hello to all those with a frigidaire dishwasher showing the error code i30 and the drain pump continuously running..... i think i have a (at least temporary) solution!!! (bottom of post) apparently this is a systemic problem with a poorly designed pressure switch that get clogged with food and grease causing the above symptoms. the long term fix would be to get the updated sensor= 5304504077 Pressure Sensor , but for now...... background info: put dishes in washer without rinsing them first. some had bits of salad still on them. ran a normal cycle, emptied dishes. half hour later the drain pump just starts running, error code i30 displayed, sump is empty, door is open...?? so i turned off the breaker to the washer. SOLUTION 1) put two scoops of "BIO CLEAN" with a quart of water into the dishwasher ( https://www.gonzocart.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=290&language=en&currency=USD ), 2) used a zip tie to poke around the pressure sensor opening to loosen any food particles. you need a flexible thingy to reach into the opening of the sensor from the sump. 3) waited 24 hours 4) turned on the breaker....drain pump does stays off, no error code, operating panel displays normally. 5) ran the rinse cycle. the contents of the dishwasher backs up into the kitchen sink showing both the BIO CLEAN stuff and bits of salad. ran the disposal to clear, cycle finishes normally! drain pump does not later turn on by itself. SUCCESS so, guess i will have to preclean the plates and occasionally use the bio clean just in case.

Fellow Appliantologists, We've had continuing issues with our under-the-sink RO system. Mainly stuck valves and wasted water. Last plumber to look at it said that maybe we didn't have enough water pressure for it to function properly. Not sure what that has to do with sticking valves. We're on a well and use a jet pump to pressurize our home system. With the current pump settings, it kicks in when the pressure drops to 30 psi, and kicks off when it hits 48 psi. I know that's lower than city pressures, but from what I could find online that's enough pressure for an RO system to work. Especially since we have a softener upstream so the RO gets fed very low TDS water. For what it's worth, the RO is a "Reversed Osmosis Drinking Water Systems" Model GRO-5-Stage. A little over one year old. Connected via a real tee and not one of those self-piercing hacks. It should be using 1 g to produce 1 g ... important for us with our well. It's drying up like most in Arizona. So is the house pressure an issue, or did I just get a bad unit with cheap valves. Replaced them twice now. Thanks!

I found a post in this forum that appears to answer my question, but I wanted to start a new topic to get a better grasp of the big picture. My p&t valve line goes up and out to the patio. There appears to be water there (maybe 8 to 10 oz) every morning (after showers?). Here's the post that leads me to believe its either build up or too much pressure. http://appliantology.org/topic/27317-water-heater/?hl=p So if it is too much pressure, here's my question; how much pressure should be coming in from the street? Its City water. Is this a measurable thing, for a non-plumber like myself? A way to test it? We have a toilet that chronically runs for a second or two occasionally (I've replaced the entire tank kit by now) that also made me think I had too much pressure. I'm familiar with the valve to limit the incoming pressure, but only in passing. I say hello. Its silent... Any advice would be grratly appreciated. Even if its "Dude, call a plumber..." I can post pics and models #'s, but for now its more of a general, philosophical discussion. Thanks, D